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RJolly87 wrote:It is obvious you are going to go off and do your own thing, however I would like to present some reminders of things that have come up so far.

You confirmed the noise you heard was exactly like a video I posted with a documented spun bearing. Not many other things could make the noise you identified and confirmed sounded like yours.
You stated the engine locked solid, and was not able to be turned over.
The engine is still making some noise, the same engine that has made noise like a spun bearing, and has locked solid once before.

With that information, it would be wise to deduce that the engine is now on borrowed time. You now can make preperations to get it taken care of on your terms, assuming it holds together. The only thing you may succeed in doing is buying more time, maybe even 'mechanic in a can' solutions may help too, but it doesn't change the likely outcome. Money spent on this engine will likely end up being money lost.

harofreak00 wrote:Now that its running again, can you get a video?

01bonneSC wrote:Hows your coolant level?

RJolly87 wrote:I would figure that the engine has enough balls to break whatever parts are causing the valve to stick long before it locks up. I would even figure it would shred a lobe off the cam before it locks up as well.

RJolly87 wrote:I doubt that a sticking valve could cause lockup, I believe that the components would break before they locked the engine. About the only things that can cause a solid lockup are bearing and piston failures I think. It would restart after everything cooled down because the metal surfaces that would have seized, would have contracted back to their original size as they got cooler, freeing up the engine. I would be very interested in seeing what the inside of this engine looks like if it gets torn apart. Some things are simply not adding up.

94SilverSSEi wrote:You are going to want to figure out what the problem is because if it locks up again more than likely that will be the end of your engine and then you will be stranded wherever the engine decides to take a dump.

If you are determined to keep this engine as long as you can. HAve you at least tried pulling the oil pan off and seeing what the oil looks like and whats in the pan? IF there is any metal in your oil that engine is toast.

94SilverSSEi wrote:Did u actually take the oil pan off the car and look in the oil pan or are you just looking at the dipstick?

As the dipstick can be very deceiving as it may look ok and there could be inches of metal in your pan

CDawg011 wrote:This is another thing a guy came up with for me on youtube.... @CDawg011 you probablyy broke your piston ring lands or your valve seals and valves. if it heat seized you probably ruined your valve guides seals and head. the lower should be ok if it was a heat seize. get a new head or even just get a turbo buildup. if its a DD, get the head and valvetrain replaced ASAP. and MAKE SURE to have the block resurfaced by a trained pro. ill pm you a dude who will do this if you want.

01bonneSC wrote: glad we could help

CDawg011 wrote:Turns out.. water had got into my oil sometime in the past... spun a main bearing.. and bam. here we are. $1,000 and 2 weeks later.. I will have my bonnie up and running again.. granted the engine has twice as many miles as my car :(

RJolly87 wrote:

CDawg011 wrote:Turns out.. water had got into my oil sometime in the past... spun a main bearing.. and bam. here we are. $1,000 and 2 weeks later.. I will have my bonnie up and running again.. granted the engine has twice as many miles as my car :(

The 3800's, assuming they are treated nicely, take miles like nothing.