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Oh and another thing it ran fine before.

Well it didn't run perfectly but I would say pretty good for the condition of those intake gaskets.

what about the spider injector?

so after you had it lined up perfectly on the #1 cyl, and it back fired.....you then lined it up where the #4 cyl on the cap would be, correct?

I had it lined up with #1 but it wouldn't line up with 4


Idk. I'm gonna see if I can have my mechanic friend come over tomorrow

This is mind boggling and really pissing me off and I can't get anything else done till the engine is all good.

Ok. So what I did was lined the rotor up with the spark plug #1 instead of the actual connection of #1. So we got it how I was supposed to be and it started and ran but has a real bad miss.

So my dads friend who is a mechanic said the distributor might be off 1 tooth or something so I should try to move it 1 tooth over.

Also I changed the oil and it looked real good and it didn't look like there was any coolant in it.

So tomorrow I wanna get it running puuurfectly and hopefully I can pick up all the parts I need tomorrow.

Anybody know if it would be worth it to get a used brake booster it will be like $30 compared to $100 but how do I know if it's Any good?

Figures I was late getting in here. I was gonna say that the plug wire locations on the outside of the distributor cap is not the same location as the connections inside.

For the brake booster, there is a vacuum line running to it. Start the engine and pull that line off, make sure it has vacuum to it. There is also vacuum check valve on the inlet of the booster that could be causing an issue. Before getting a different booster, make sure the main vacuum line has good vacuum and that the check valve isn't bad. If everything checks out good, I would honestly just get a used booster myself. It is pretty rare to see them go bad, so a used one should be fine, just try to make sure it came off a running vehicle, or make sure that if it doesn't work you can return it.

i appoldges i can t help you with nothing
i was about to wander if battery stil a life and if connection where not wet

its look like blazer and opel had frontyera than with 6 cilinder isseu motor
in indonesia its opel blazer all look like each other

in the 60ts in the idf israely defence force dad had army had range rovers and land rovers
compare to those this is much more comfort

Well I got the distributor right where it's supposed to be so now it runs but not good. It seems like it is off or something bc it is missing a lot and is very rumbly and the whole engine shakes when it is running.

Any advice?

BTW it did run better than this before even with the coolant shooting out the side of the engine.


I really don't wanna drop money on plugs and wires if that's not the problem. And I font think that is the problem because it ran ok before......

Have you at least pulled, cleaned and regapped them? You may also want to use a DMM and check the resistance of the wires.

double check and make sure the vacuum booster line is hooked up.

So I guess the brake booster is definately bad because when you push the brake pedal the idle goes up like 1,000 RPM and u let off and it drops.

Also that brake booster hose was plugged in.

I can't figure it out. I keep thinking plugs and wires but it ran fine before so why should the plugs and wires crap out now?

I rechecked all plug wires and distributor wires and all engine harness wires and they were all plugged up right so idk.....

how is it

Well the rough idle I can not figure out. It's not super bad but it's bad if that makes any sense. And when you get on it it kinda fumbles and shakes.

I got the old brake booster out yesterday and got the new one in but I have to tighten the bolts down more yet.

And I was trying to Put the brake pedal sensor back on and it got smudged and popped apart all over so I gotta figure out how that goes back together.

This thing is turning into a nightmare!!

Oh and I picked up a set of tires with about 50% tread and even wear on all of them
Also I picked up a Brand New passenger mirror for $20 and got that put on.

So what's left:
1.) Figure out the terrible idle problem
2.) Finish putting break booster in and get sensor back together
3.) Fix up ripped drivers seat
4.) Wash, wax and try to buff out a nasty spot in the paint
5.) Switch over the 4 new tires
6.) Clean it up and get rid of the thing!!

94SilverSSEi wrote:Well the rough idle I can not figure out. It's not super bad but it's bad if that makes any sense. And when you get on it it kinda fumbles and shakes.

This sounds a LOT like a fuel issue. Check this out:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/if-y ... em-268309/

Not saying absolutely that's it, but if you can't find anything else it could be worth a shot. It is expensive however, about $250 for the upgrade kit (stock replacement is about the same).
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If the distributor is in correctly then it should run fine... But take the brake booster hose and clamp it off so that it does not leak... see if the problem is still present...

When we do the gaskets we mark the distributor to make sure we get the rotor back into the correct place so that it will be 100%.. There is no adjustment for the distributor, its either right or its not...lol

Its also possible like stated that the Spider may be shot
( more than most of the time its a bad poppet valve, leaking )... and the update is to go to the MFI version, the difference being that the actual injectors are in the ports as opposed to in the spider body..

If it ran better before the gaskets, then there is a chance that you are off a tooth on the distributor drive gear..

So I have the spider design on mine and then there is a tube that goes to each injector and the injectors are in the ports of the intake manifold.

Is this the old or new design?

Also I am 99% sure that distributor is right but I will have to check that one more time.
Because it seemed like if you moved it one tooth either direction then it would not run at all.

But right now it takes longer than it should to start and once it does start it runs rough.

Have you checked the fuel pressure? The CPI units are very pissy about fuel pressure.. You need roughly 60 PSI for it to start...

Ok. So I got the Jimmy all back together now all I have left to do is swap the tires and fix the idle problem.

Also I did not check the fuel pressure. How do u do this?


I am getting a "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire" code

I am thinking of just replacing the plugs and wires and see where that brings.
Could this code be caused by distributor off one tooth. I don't think it is but can't be sure.

Also when it sits for awhile there is wetness that drips out of the muffler and tail pipe when you fire it up and after it warms up for about 1-2 then this stops but it is enough to make a small puddle on the ground. I this something to worry about? I thought it was just condensation build up from sitting?

Also it seems like it takes longer than it should to start and once it does start it revs up to about 2,000 RPMS and then after about 90 seconds it goes down to about 1,100 RPMs and kinda goes between 1,000 and 1,100 an it seems to stumble when you accelerate it.

When you pulled the distributor out did you mark the relation of the rotor to the distributor body? you could still be off but its hard to say..

Being that it runs worse than it did before, there is a good chance something may not have gone back together right..

No I didn't mark the distributor. I have never dealt with a distributor and I found out that it should be marked after I took it all apart.