PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Starting with this photo, and moving towards the higher numbers in the album, I took pics of the guage section. If you can't read them, I can email which ever ones you want that aren't resized and they'll be much easier to read.

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b184/ ... 131305.jpg

And read my reply on the previous page as a general guide to John's 92 prints.

alright I was up pretty late last night chasing wires, I will snap a pic of the cluster shortly, also there are between 4-6 wires on the pcm connector that are not hooked up I will find the pin positioning and post here which ones they are. now that I know that all the wires for the gauges dont come from the pcm it makes a lot more sense to me. Thanks for all the help so far guys it is greatly appreciated.

Alright pics of gauges to come as soon as my phone sends them. but heres a list of the wires from the pcm that are not hooked up, these are from the 92 connectors

from c1 connector:
d5 (white) transaxle position switch parity input
d8 (blk/wht) transaxle position switch input a
d11 (lt blue)a/c on input

first two I think I need 3rd one for ac i dont think will matter

from c2 connector:
b11 (wht/blk) diagnostic input <- he has this marked as something to do with the trans performance shift?

from c3 connector ( green one):
c15 (dark blue) tcc pwm solenioid control
d5 (dark blue) cranking fuel enable input
d15 (yellow/blk) shift b solenoid control

now I know there are some wires I need to run from thee transmission to the pcm but not sure where to wire the others to, now that I know a lot of the gauges are ran from the sensors that shouldnt be so much of an issue.

You will need all of that. The reason they are not hooked up is because the 4T60 didn't use any of that, but the 60E does. You will need to drill a hole in the firewall to run that wiring...with the dash out of the car, now would be a good time to do that, and do it correctly with grommets and sealing.

The white/black is for the performance shift. You will need a resistor wired to it (resistor is tied to the ground side of the switch)...I think 348 ohms is the value you will need.

Brad's on the money. Do you need the wiring diagram for the trans plug? Might be better coming from John Wikoff, but IIRC, 93 is identical, which you know I have. That wraps up MOST of your remaining wires!

It is all seeming to make more sense now, thanks again guys. Yes a wiring diagram of the trans plug would be great . I plan on getting the rest of the info needed for the burn tomorrow and send it off tues. I think I can figure a lot of the wiring out now that I am not trying to route it all to the pcm

Before spending the green on a tuned chip, I suggest finding another PROM, and send that off to him, or see if he has any PROMs he can sell you. Also, don't have the chip burned until you can verify that the PCM and wiring actually works. You can start, run, and drive the car with what you have. I'm not sure if the pre-92 cars had VATS...if yours does have it, and you have the original key, you should be fine so long as the PCM is connected to the VATS module.

sandrock wrote:Before spending the green on a tuned chip, I suggest finding another PROM, and send that off to him, or see if he has any PROMs he can sell you. Also, don't have the chip burned until you can verify that the PCM and wiring actually works. You can start, run, and drive the car with what you have. I'm not sure if the pre-92 cars had VATS...if yours does have it, and you have the original key, you should be fine so long as the PCM is connected to the VATS module.

the pcm is the 92 from the donor car so I can not start it without having vats deleted as I do not have the original key. the vats system would have to be wired in then i would have to bypass it and hope i get the right resistance. why should I not use the prom from the donor? also I have to send the pcm out no matter what to get it adjusted to run the 94/95 sc

Brad, this is why we've been planning an early prom burn. He doesn't have the luxury of a traditional vats bypass.

Taylor, keep in mind it's only the eprom chip you'll be sending in.

willwren wrote:Brad, this is why we've been planning an early prom burn. He doesn't have the luxury of a traditional vats bypass.

Taylor, keep in mind it's only the eprom chip you'll be sending in.

thats good to know because I would have sent the whole thing ( but really I would have)

Ahhhh......ok. I wasn't certain about the early models having VATS or lack of. Still...it should run for a few seconds before the PCM cuts everything off. At least make sure it will do that much before sending out the chip.

With the dash out, it would also be a great time to add keyless entry and remote start

It has an aftermarket alarm and remote start by clifford I believe, I figured once I got it running I would take it down and have it checked out ( the alarm) before I put the dash back on.

Here's tranny connector info. Again, let me know if you want higher res versions.

thanks man thats going to help out considerably, now I have to hope the trans has that connector on it. if it doesnt I am going to have to try to find one somewhere, anyone have any idea where to look? once again thanks to all that has helped and hopefully one day I can return the favor

Hopefully that connector is hanging off the front of the trans next to the modulator.

willwren wrote:Hopefully that connector is hanging off the front of the trans next to the modulator.

I will find out Monday I am planning to put in about 5-6 hours monday getting as much as I can done

here are the pics of my gauges ( phone only took about 10 hours to send em)





and one of the rats nest wiring

The only gauge I see there from the PCM is the speedo. Tach to the ICM (white wire), volts to the charging system, but you'll need the actual point (I'll dig that for you). Oil pressure to the sender (I'll give you that wire too). Temp sender behind the TB in the LIM goes to the gauge, not the one under the TB in the end of the LIM.

Dummy lights will have to go one-by-one. Keep in mind we can assume for now the oil pressure sender will work with your gauge, if not, you'll need one from a 91.

The only thing about the speed outputs on the PCM....there are two. One is for 4k output, the other is a 2k output. The 4k goes to the speedometer, the 2k goes to the chime module for things like the dinger, and T2V. Ooooooh.......does the SSE have that??

What I am getting at is that I am not sure what the SSE speedo wants to see....the 4k, or the 2k. I know the '92 and up models want to see the 4k signal, and that is probably the case with the earlier models too. But someone with an FSM for the '91 will have to verify that.

That trans connector....it will not be in the bay. The 4T60e connectors prior to '96 where not included in the main firewall harness....they were in the harness on the driver side of the car, the same harness that includes the cruise control. Since the '91 didn't have the 60e, it won't have that harness head. You are going to have to snip one off of a junkyard car, and solder up the wiring. You should be able to use the existing 4T60 harness (if it still has one) for the power and ground...though, since you will have more solenoids in the circuit, you should up the fuse rating of that particular circuit. You might be able to reuse the TCC apply wire as well, but the rest you will need to route through a hole in the firewall. You will also need the 4T60E park/neutral switch wiring as well.