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Your MAF and TB are not a single unit. I need the part number cast into the aluminum throttle body.

More pictures (3 or 4 from different angles) of just the throttle body, as well as the supercharger area just behind the throttle body (towards the driver) would be a big help also. Please also measure the pulley on the supercharger installed on your car, and the one in your trunk.

It looks to me that each supercharger has its original pulley on it.

I've got some shots of a 92/93 TB in my "Random Parts" for sale thread if you'd like to compare.

The pulley off the one in the trunk is noticably larger.
I will see if i can get some pictures after school.

How much is it to rebuild the supercharger entirely.

For you to do it, or to send it out? If you're going to do it, you'll need a press. Your bigger problem is the fact that you probably don't have the correct TB on the car, and I didn't see one in your trunk.

Here's the maf list from Techinfo. It looks like you have the right maf sensor. Now, if you take the intake tube off, open the throttle by hand, and look inside, does the supercharger inlet match the inner diameter of the throttle body? If you have a 94/95 MAF and a 92/93 SC, there will be a several millimeter reduction in size at the SC inlet.

Where to look for the TB part number:


The correct part number for your CAR, but not for that supercharger:


Again (my spare) the TB that is correct for your CAR, but not your currently installed SC:


The other TB that is possible (please check your part number, facing the driver):


What you'll see if you have the RIGHT TB for your car on the wrong SC:

NOTE THE INLET OF THE SUPERCHARGER IS SMALLER THAN THE THROTTLE PLATE WITH THE THROTTLE HELD OPEN


If you have the wrong TB and SC BOTH installed on your car:




On the left, The 92/93 'Gen2' TB. On the right, the 94/95 'Gen3' TB:



On the left (other than the black) the 94/95 Gen3 SC which is correct for any 94 or 95. On the right, the Gen2 92/93 supercharger (ignore paint):


Gen 3 (correct for your car) on the left. Gen2 (incorrect for your car) on the right. See the thickness difference pointed out?



Gen3 (94/95) on bottom, Gen2 92/93 on top.

There's also a large thickness difference where the bolt to the left of Bill's finger is. On the black 94/95 it's about an inch thick (you can see about half of it here). On the 92/93, it's a good two inches thick.

LISA'S finger, hoser! Yup, missed that one. Too many pics shot.


EDIT....beat you to the pics, mush brain. You didn't have yours up quick enough but I had to dig for that old Gen2 housing.

Hmm, two hands, one shot... I guess I shoulda thought about how you'd be taking the pics. My bad...

I also thought they were old pics.

okay after poking and prodding i finally found the p/n.
RHA70-1
24501537

Correct for the car but not the SC.
Based on the veins on the sc its easy to tell its from a 92/93.

So now i need to work on rebuilding my proper supercharger.

For a 94/95 SSEi, you have:

Correct TB
Correct MAF
Incorrect SC
Correct nosedrive (same for 91-95)

(just to sum things up)

I'd love to know how the TB was sealed to the front of the SC without leaking coolant. The SC requires one gasket, the TB another.

Seems to be some sort of black sealant.
Ill find out after im done rebuilding this supercharger i suppose.

I took the nose drive off partially just the first section where the gears are.
And i do not think that anyone has ever changed the supercharger oil on that supercharger.
That stuff smelled disgusting and seemed to be cooked on to the insides.
The two gears seem to be in good condition.
I hope its okay to use brake clean on this stuff because i already did.
Edit: Also on a side note i turned it over by hand and felt a slight grinding whilst turning. As well as i seem to be able to turn the pulley a little bit before it "catches" and the screws begin turning. And the inside of the housing and the screws are filthy. Absolutely FILTHY.
*Facepalm*

I assume you're talking about the one in your trunk? BrakeClean won't be good for the seal, but you'll have to replace that to do the bearings.

Don't do anything to the rotors or housing without asking first. There are seals in there you DON'T want to mess with. Supercharger oil smells nasty after 100 miles. It's cooked animal fat.

This is very late for the air cleaner but this is one good filter
http://www.aemintakes.com/dryflow_air_filters.htm

I have over 100,000 miles with this filter and when I take my intake off to smog my car every two years the intake pipe is clean, no dust, no oil just a clean pipe. My intake is just a little bit bigger than most but hey, somebody has to have the biggest
http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z38/ ... ds/Intake/

ROD

Yes i was talking about the gen3 (Sorry i should have clarified)
I think im going to go take some pictures of what i have done so far so you can take a look and tell me what you think.
It probably needs a complete overhaul anyways.

Also thanks Rod im still eyeballing a few different filter options.
I appreciate the info.

This one here it almost looks like the paints been burned or something?
The camera did not capture it very well.

Do NOT clean the carbon in the compressor chamber. It helps seal the rotors for better efficiency. Same thing applies to the rotors. Do NOT clean them. Bearing replacement only in the housing, then put things together dirty.

I'm a little concerned about the scoring inside the case. Look for damage on the rotor lobes that match.

Yes the scoring is on the rotors as well.
And it seems to be not so much carbon as it is grainy grease.
Also now would seem to be a good of time as any to P&P.
And IF im correct when i go to replace the gen 2 with the gen 3 i should be able to take the pulley of the gen 2 and put it on the gen 3. That way i dont have to purchase a 2.5" pulley.

is that right?