PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

I hear ya. My i30 fenders are a little shaky down there.. If you wanted to fix it without welding, some home depot/lowes sheet metal, tin snips, a drill and some rivets and you're pretty much there. The body cladding would hide it.

The interior patch is seam sealed up, the B pillars are covered in suede, and I repaired a crack in the driver's side drip molding today.






A B C pillars.

There are only a few things left preventing me from putting the interior back in the car. I still need to:
Weld in the patch in the rear seat pan
Put a second coat of Zero Rust over the whole floor
Pull the windshield again (probably could get away with not but might as well)
Paint the upper windshield frame. Right now there's only primer behind the front reveal molding
Install new OEM headliner board redone in suede.. Still need to redo it
Install windshield

Ok.. More than a few. But that's the order of operations at least.

Since I can't do the same thing twice without figuring out a way to do it better, I found the windshield plastic locating supports to help reinstallation. p/n 25654094. My original ones were broken and window welded in place.

Not too long ago I picked up a NOS passenger drip molding (p/n 25649720) but the driver's side (p/n 25649721) is no longer available. The driver's side is of course in worse shape. It's mainly the rubber strip that attaches to the rear portion of the molding. It shrinks and pulls away. I decided to use a section of the old passenger side rubber to stitch in and repair the driver's.

Here you can see the shriveled part cut off here:


Sacrificial part cut to length


Cut down to match the contour of the other side


Epoxied and supported from the back. I ended up adding more epoxy over all this.


Passenger and Driver's

So, I know I've asked this before, but it's been a few years so.... what are your goals with this project? Obviously, one of your goals is perfection since you're splicing and repairing window moldings, but what else? Car shows? I still think it should get a magazine spread. I loved that fix, by the way, it's something that I would never notice but I know how those details combine to make the car look even more outstanding on the whole.

zuper8 wrote:So, I know I've asked this before, but it's been a few years so.... what are your goals with this project? Obviously, one of your goals is perfection since you're splicing and repairing window moldings, but what else? Car shows? I still think it should get a magazine spread. I loved that fix, by the way, it's something that I would never notice but I know how those details combine to make the car look even more outstanding on the whole.

Rachel, as always, I appreciate the kind words.

Power goals while n/a were 13.9 with slicks. I have no idea if that is even realistic but it should be a mid-14s car all day. It's not going to be a fast car but it should have enough power to not suck with a 6 speed.

Aesthetics goals is just to have a good looking car.. But have most people scratching their head as to why they're now into a 1995 Bonneville. And for those that know how the car should look to notice maybe 20% of what I did. I'm basically my worst enemy. I want to look at everything I do and never wish I did it any better or different.

Shows? Yeah eventually but I'm still quite a ways off.

I also want the car to be dead reliable. Aside from the electrical gremlins I might have made for myself by re-wiring the whole front end, this goal is the easiest.

Some more updates from today.

I got the hole in the seat pan welded up. It's Zero Rust coated from underneath but I still have to do a second coat. The frame rail actually had decent access to the underneath.





While fixing the seat pan I saw more rust and I started to fix it.








I need to clean that up a bit more before paint. I also need to drill a hole for the lower rubber screw and the plan is to cavity wax through that hole. I'll seam seal it from the back in the wheel well too.

nice ride I have a 95 SSEi black on black. I am seriously considering just giving it away parking it in the yard with a free sign on it. I'm having trouble routing all of the vacuum lines, and I mean every single one from the canister to the throttle body stuff up on the supercharger and back to the firewall I was hoping that maybe you could post a couple of pictures of how they run all the way through there, because your car is the closest I have found to mine. I would greatly appreciate it thank you. you can text them to me if you would like or you can email them to me or send them on here. My # 740-577-5683. Email gratefuldude2001@gmail.com
Bonnie lass has been setting for far too long

BonnSSEi_Lass wrote:nice ride I have a 95 SSEi black on black. I am seriously considering just giving it away parking it in the yard with a free sign on it. I'm having trouble routing all of the vacuum lines, and I mean every single one from the canister to the throttle body stuff up on the supercharger and back to the firewall I was hoping that maybe you could post a couple of pictures of how they run all the way through there, because your car is the closest I have found to mine. I would greatly appreciate it thank you. you can text them to me if you would like or you can email them to me or send them on here. My # 740-577-5683. Email gratefuldude2001@gmail.com
Bonnie lass has been setting for far too long

Email, texting, and private messages won't help other people. That, and I'm far from the best option for input on S1 L67 vacuum routing.

Here's a post in the proper section and I'm sure other people will help out more.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 50639.html

I went to finish the small patch on the driver's rear door seal but the few spots of wheel well rust were staring me in the face.. that lead to more metalwork.

For the door seal metal, I actually ended up welding it from the back via mirror to get it sealed up instead of seam sealing it. When grinding down the rust spots in the wheel well, there were two spots that needed more than a grinder to fix. The one section needed new metal worked on both sides of a pinched seam. The other section near the shock turned out to have good metal behind it so I just welded the superficial metal to the good metal underneath. Eventually I'll have to go back and re-do the wheel wells with the proper coating but for now it has 2 coats of Zero Rust.

I did re-coat the areas I repaired a month ago. All that's left to close out these repairs is cavity waxing the door seal repair through the mounting hole drilled in the fresh metal and seal sealing from inside.











I also started putting a second coat of Zero Rust on the interior. The rear seat pan is done. The rest of the floor is next.

There's not many pics but I actually spent a fair amount of time on the car over the past few days.

The breakdown:
-Threw a 2nd coat of Zero Rust over the interior floor
-Wired in the rear SSEi speakers I got at the yard
-Installed SSEi rear deck
-Saw one driver's side floor access panel pushed through the rubber/tar sealing mat. No corrosion luckily. So I removed the metal, painted it, and installed Hush Mat over it to seal. (You can see the hole on the one pic below)
-Hush Mat'd the hole in the front driver's patch panel
-Laid the new carpet out inside for a couple days to let it settle
-Started to install the carpet. Driver's seat is in.

I still need to cut the carpet for the passenger seat and down the sides yet. The last time I installed a carpet with the nose higher than the rear and it ended up with slack at the end of the exhaust tunnel. I also ended up trimmed the one side a little to far. So, I did the install this time with the nose lower and worked the carpet from the rear seat forward. I'll leave the sides long until it settles.

I haven't had carpet in the car for like 6 years because of water leaks.. It might not seem like a big thing but it's a nice milestone for me.

The rest of the interior will go in easy enough. The A/B/C pillars will stay out till I redo the NOS headliner board and pull the windshield.

Slowly but surely.

All the seats and the center console are back in. I'll have to get a pic of that at some point.

I decided to tackle a small project I've been thinking of doing for a long time.. Belt wrap with the re-routed belt for my electric water pump has always been lackluster. High rpm shifts or low rpm dips always seem to make it slip a little. So, I decided to make another idler pulley in a similar location to a 00+ H body supercharger idler. I did a little cardboard mock up, drew the part in CAD, tested, tweaked and had S&W Race Cars waterjet the bracket for me. They're the same folks I used for waterjetting all the F40 associated mounts I designed. I also had them spin down some stand off spacers for it too. Once I got the parts back, I tapped the pulley spacer, did a little tweaking and found a belt that would work.

I like it.

Thanks!

I'm hoping to work on the headliner next.

You're doing amazing work! It's really giving me more motivation to fix some of the smaller issues on my projects!

That's awesome. Anymore I feel like OCD has me working at a snail's pace. It's very cool to hear what little I do get done still motivates.

From earlier today on a Home Depot run.

Looks great.

Man, I haven't been on this forum in ages but awesome to see you're still working on/driving the car. Amazing. I love the car!

Thanks guys!

Great to see how far this car has come! Awesome work!

I'm totally biased here but GO USA!! Bonnie's got it going on.