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The non-clone versions seem to be getting harder to find. I just looked on eBay and there was only one or maybe two that looked potentially promising. I bought my new, but that was also at least ten years ago. I think it was about $3,500 at the time and is branded OTC but is a genuine Vetronix unit. OTC is (now) part of Bosch Automotive Service Solutions. There is one or two articles floating around the internet outlining ways to tell which units are genuine, and which may be clones. The question is finding the right seller to make sure you have some recourse.

As for your testing, if the sunload sensor checked out fine, it's suggestive that both the sensor and the Instrument Panel Module are both working correctly. This leads back to either a wiring problem or bad Rear Integration Module (in your specific circumstance). If it was my car, there are other tests I'd perform, but like I mentioned before, remote troubleshooting something like this can be challenging.

One last thing you may want to try is to unplug the connector at the back of the dome lamp/fog lamp control and see what happens.

It really goes against everything I believe to simply throw parts at a problem in hopes of fixing it without a sound basis for doing so, but I almost think that you may want to consider swapping the RIM to see what happens.

Ok, you are saying unplug the switch from behind the dash?? What's the easiest way to get to the back side of switch. I don't want to break anything.

Update.... removed switch as you suggested and the dome lights come on when only the drivers door is opened. And stays on until RAP shuts them off in the allotted time.

I also removed fuse #14. in the rear seat fuse box.... the lights stay off now.

I suspect with Fuse 14 removed you'll also find that the license plate lamps will not work.

I would try reinstalling the fuse, but pulling Relay 51 from the rear fuse block. The interior lights should go out. Try swapping in another relay and see what happens. If the lights come back on (inappropriately), I'm betting there is either a problem with the RIM, or the circuit control wire from the RIM to the rear fuse block is shorted to ground. If you change out the relay and everything starts to work correctly, the relay is faulty.

For test purposes, you can borrow Relay 52 (Trunk Release) to see what happens.

Did you ever work on this further?

Of course, I buy a 2005 SLE, have this EXACT problem, and the last reply was 2019… any new updates guys??
Have replaced the DDM, RIM, going to replace the driver door latch, have unplugged the dimmer switch, and have had fuse 14 pulled for months now(still have plate lights though, one is burnt out). Very irritating situation.