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You can do it with some sheet-metal, seam-sealer and rivets, but don't expect it to be a permanent repair...

How much would a permanent repar cost?

I went to numerous shops today and i have three options i guess. Most of the shops told me to limp this car to a junkyard and sell it. One body shop said that i should sell him the rims and junk the car. A good portion called my car a fat silver piece of sh!t. The three options i have are:

1. Replace the whole 1/4 panel and wheel well (quoted $4000+; 1 month to complete)
2. Rhinoline every wheel well (quoted $1000+; 10 hours to complete)
3. Leave it and deal with the puddles of water in the trunk and passenger floorboard (quoted Replace car in 4 years)

I love this car dearly and i want to get this fixed. Maaco refuses to fill or fix it and told me to roll this piece of sh!t to a junkyard (dude demanded me to sell him my rims before i do that). Is there anyone here that lives near Greenwood that could please help me?

Here are pics of the rust

If thats what the wheel well looks like, what do the front sub frame mounts look like?
My guess is that you should start saving for a replacement car SOON.
Or you can learn to do the repairs yourself because having someone else do them is out of the question obviously.

Subframe mounts are fine...just a little surface rust is all.

I love this car dearly so i will not part ways with it. I want this issue fixed. Has anyone done a repair like this?

It's going to involve getting a patch panel and either welding in the patches or using panel bonding adhesive and "gluing" the patch in.

What gauge sheet metal should i use? 22 Gauge?

Nobody knows what gauge to use?

I have NFC. Your best bet would be to find a car in a yard with a good piece and cut it out. That way it's already the right shape, etc.

I was there today and there were no bonnevilles. Suprisingly the top of the inner wheel well and still sturdy. It just has surface rust. I might rhinoline the wheel well until a bonneville pops up in the yard

Don't. It's going to make it that much harder.

I guess your right. I might be able to patch the rusted through areas. The top of the wheel well is still very sturdy. Gives me something to work with

Called a few more body shops. I have quotes ranging from $150 - $500 to strip and weld new panels in. Doesn't sound like a bad deal to me.

I did that exact repair. It was back in either 2008 or 2009. It held up the remaining 2-3 years I had the car. By that point, the rest of the wheel wells were ready to disintegrate. But the original repair was holding on just fine. Use 18 gauge metal, rivets, and JB Weld for a permanent, water-tight fix. First, grind down all the rust and rusty undercoating visible. Next, groan as the hole goes from dime to credit card size. Hit the rust with some naval jelly or other rust converter, wait for that to set up, and then go to town with the steel.

Another option I've seen online is POR-15 putty. Some impressive repairs have been done with that stuff. It seems to hold up very well.

Ok Guys I am still at a loss for water leaks.

I seem to have fixed the Drivers/Passenger front doors by soaking them in hot water- turned up my water heater to get them nice and pliable.

The Passenger side rear is still leaking into the floor board, the trunk was wet this morning also after a night of rain.

1- Where can I find OEM replacement seals for the all 4 doors and trunk
2- Any ideas of what else to check for the leaking door and trunk


Thank You,

Ok I have tried soaking the seals twice. The passenger side rear is still leaking like a ship.

Where can I get replacement seals as I would like to do all 4 including the trunk.

No rust, sun roof drains are clear only the door seals are leaking.

Please help

Check this also:
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... ilit=water