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The biggest problem with intercoolers is heat soak. Some track guys use ice chests to try and combat it. Every system has its drawbacks.

Want....want.....want............but what do you really need?

What are your goals? Remember that if someone totals your car you will get nothing back for all the money invested. I'm finding that out right now first hand.

I think for me an intercooler is beyond what ill need. I just think it makes so much sense. I could very well make my own core out of delrin to avoid the heat issue and keep the blower cool.

The blower CAUSES the heatsoak, particularly in summer. It will run far hotter than the LIM. Isolating it thermally will only help you in the colder months. I've done extensive thermal analysis to prove this.

When the blower heatsoaks, you need a good thermal union to the LIM (which is typically running at thermostat heat levels if your fans are tuned properly), and will draw heat away from the supercharger after a high boost run. The hottest internal surface of the SC after high boost is actually the inlet lower face, and that is NOT from the EGR.

Interesting. Kinda makes you wonder where zzp gets their claims that a phenolic core lowers blower temps 80*. Maybe they were using a heated dummy egine and non running blower.

ZZP's phenolic spacers are the reasons I did my thermal analysis. They help in some conditions, hurt in others.

I ran a Methanol / water kit on my car on my TurboCoupe for many years. It's personal choice, but all-in-all I would probably not run one on an S/Ced 3.8 daily driver. With a 2.3, I think it was the best way to go because you've got to run big boost to get any kind of power. I also had an IC, and sprayed after the IC.

On the plus side, I was able to increase my boost from 23 to 28psi PLUS add 4 degrees of timing across the board. This is running 93 octane pump gas. It took a lot of tuning over several months to get there. My 1/4 mile trap speed went from 97 to 102. Keep in mind, alky does not add power by itself - it just allows you to add more timing and / or boost if you are limited by detonation. This assums you have the correct supercharger and fuel system to support higher levels of boost in the first place.

On the minus side - getting a DIY setup assembled, wired, and tuned was way more time-consuming that I thought. If I ever did it again, I would definitely pony up for a complete kit. I ended up running a Snowperformance controller and a Shurflo pump. Using Alky on a daily driver requires discipline. I tuned my motor to depend on alky. 2 years into it I did finally get lazy and let the reservoir run dry. I got a BIG rattle, but surprisingly did not break anything.

I initially ran 100% methanol (to help the stock computer with fuel). I switched to 50 / 50 after getting an alky backfire that split the inlet hose and tweaked the turbo compressor wheel blades. Whoops. Other than those 2 preventable incidents it was all good once I got it dialed in.

My new water injection pump arrived today.

It looks like an improvedment over my old 150 psi pump.

The new one is rated at 1 GPM at 220 psi and has a different regulator. I think the regulator on my old pump failed because the pump still ran but it didn't make pressure. Notice the wiring to the old pumps regulator.

Also notice how must larger the new pump is and the cooling fins.

I'll install and tune it tomorrow.

Installed it today and it runs great. I had the old 150 psi pump pressure adjusted to 100 psi. The new 220 psi pump came pre-adjusted to 140-160 psi. A 1/16" allen key screw on the pump head regulator lowers the pressure 20 psi for every counter-clockwise turn or raises it 20 psi for every turn clockwise. I temporarily set it at 150 psi. to see the effect of increase atomization.
I'll have to do some trial tuning tomorrow to adjust the turn on MAF frequency and the full flow MAF frequency based on boost pressure. Two variable dials on a controller adjust the turn on and full flow points, tied into the MAF sensor output voltage.

WOT after-SC temps run about 200F and it can knock it down to 130F but more importantly I can increase my timing by 6 degrees and the boost to 15 psi without KR.

Holy shiit! I discovered something today that blew my mind!!


After installing the new pump yesterday, I tested it with the engine off and it ran perfectly by bypassing and dumping back into the reservoir.

So today I tried it again with the solenoid valve and the frikken valve is not opening. I performed a number of tests on the valve, tore it apart, even wired it direct.....still no flow. So in desparation I removed it.
Then I went for a ride to see how much fluid would be ingested without the check valve.

Whoa!!

I couldn't believe, even with the pump off (its a diaphram design), how much and how fast the fluid reservoir emptied.....about 10 minutes until the reservoir low level light came on.....only 1/4 tank left.
I also noted that the A/F ratio was 12.5 - 13.5 at normal throttle levels during city driving. This was expected due to the methanol mixture.

BUT more importantly, the temperature stayed incredibly low at 70 F the whole time, even when I was into the throttle. That's 40F cooler than it was before with the solenoid in place.
So when I did turn the pump on, it took off like a scalded cat and never went over 90F. Holy sheep doo-doo!!

Only problem is, it drains the reservoir in record time........but I only need 13 seconds, or less for a drag run.

2000Silverbullet wrote:........but I only need 13 seconds, or less for a drag run.

I am glad you specified the drag run there Paul.

Anyways, I am glad you got it together. Sounds like you are on to something there. Are you planning on putting in a larger tank or will the current one hold enough for a run?

Oh yaaa, Matt! 10 minutes should be plenty of time.

I really can't fit a larger tank under the hood.

2.9 pulley with injection and 6 degrees of timing for the track.

3.4 pulley without injection and 0 degrees of timing for the street.

It's just not the same at WCBF without the Bonne. You know it.

i wanna see this bullet fly! Paul you got a video camera?

Put a larger tank in the trunk like I did. I still have it, in fact.

He can't take up trunk space. He needs that for the slicks,

and a clean set of clothes, we don't want him stinking.

That's right Matt. I need room for all my costumes.

Actually I am thinking about using the wiper fluid reservoir. In 11 years, I've never used it once. It still has the original fluid in it.

Wow do they not have bugs or rain in canada??? I empty mine almost monthly in the summer

I don't drive it in the winter and it doesn't rain, much, here in the summer.
Bugs? None here on the coast. They don't like salt water.

When I drove it to Edmonton, there were bugs. I had to stop every couple of hours and hand wash them off.

Well apparently we.have salty bugs down here on the gulf...

Back on topic, I imagine something like what you run would be crazy down here since my avg intake temps are about 110-120° F

There's room inside the fenders for a larger custom tank. Or two. One on each side. That's capacity, and the weight is over the axle.

LOL ya, the outside temps here are only 80F now, so the SC raises it to 130F normally when not into the boost.
With your temps, your after SC temps should normally be 160F. When you're into the boost it probably rises to over 200F!! Hot, hot, hot!!

While I was testing my system for operation with the solenoid check valve I sucked in a mouthful of methanol.
Takes just like vodka......but I think I'm going blind now, LOL, spit...spit...spit...