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A belt tensioner is not a part I'd typically buy from a wrecker. They get weak with age, so why put another old one in? Wiper blades, tires, belt tensioners, thermostats, PCV valves, etc should all be purchased new, not used.

yes but for THAT price.. no thank you... i would rather keep buying from a junkyard... even if you buy 40 of them, still cheaper than one brand new one... not worth it.. they will keep going bad over time anyway, an old one would be just fine in my opinion

First, I would rather spend the extra money and do it once and not have it leave me stranded because it decided to fail again when most inconvenient. Second, this is not an item that lasts only a few thousand miles. It will easily last a long time.

Second, we need to confirm this is the issue before we go throwing money at it. To the OP, have you had this checked? Also, take the belt off and feel all the pulleys and accessories and make sure they all spin freely.

myfirstbonnie wrote:
...we need to confirm this is the issue before we go throwing money at it. To the OP, have you had this checked? Also, take the belt off and feel all the pulleys and accessories and make sure they all spin freely.

Thank you for getting it back on track. I worked yesterday, so haven't had time to do anything with it. I've been driving the car very gingerly until I get this checked out (no goosing the throttle or fast accelerations....nice, smooth and steady, etc.). Although all I did was drive to work and back yesterday, I watched my volt meter and all my other gauges, and there was no erratic behavior today (good or bad? Who knows...a bad alternator can be erratic one day and fine the next...). Question: With that tensioner, to remove the belt, I just use the appropriate size socket and I believe I push in a downward motion counter clockwise to reduce tension and slip the belt off, is this correct? If I get a reply early enough today (Sunday), I'll try to check it out today...unless I look at the belt pattern and get confused, then I'll leave it 'til I get it to a garage. Sorry folks, sometimes I get gun shy with checking something, sometimes I don't; it all depends.

Yes just remove the belt by using a wrench to turn the tensioner releasing the tension. You don't really have to pull the belt all the way off, just off one of the pulleys and then chack all the others and put the belt back.

I don't have a picture handy, but there should be a couple lines cast into the aluminum of the tensioner housing and another one on the arm. See where these are and take a picture and post up here. Those are a good indication if your tensioner is getting weak.

myfirstbonnie wrote:Yes just remove the belt by using a wrench to turn the tensioner releasing the tension. You don't really have to pull the belt all the way off, just off one of the pulleys and then chack all the others and put the belt back.

I don't have a picture handy, but there should be a couple lines cast into the aluminum of the tensioner housing and another one on the arm. See where these are and take a picture and post up here. Those are a good indication if your tensioner is getting weak.

...okay, I'll see what I can do. I know about those lines you're referring to. Are those lines meant to be showing the tensioners reading with the belt on, or the belt off (I would certainly assume on)?

...do I need to push the socket wrench in a counter-clockwise motion, or clockwise, to release the tension?

Belt on.

It will only turn one way with the belt on. You will see one way releases the tension and the other tightens. No way to get it wrong...................just DO NOT let go of the wrench until the tensioner is relaxed.

Will is correct, you should just bite the bullet and by a new one. The youngest son put on a new tensioner when he did the valve job because I had no trouble getting the belt off by myself. After he put on the new one, it has to be a very good day for me to get the belt off without help. Also, the pullys are different sizes. Make sure you match the pully. Good luck - BC

While I am thinking of it:

Here is the Helm web site: www.helminc.com
Also for your vehicle: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.as ... itemtype=N

I don’t know about a 97 SE, but it looks like from the Helm web site, there is one manual set for all H platform cars. In '92 there was one set of 3 manuals for the SE and another set of 3 manuals for the SSE/SSEi.

myfirstbonnie wrote:...but there should be a couple lines cast into the aluminum of the tensioner housing and another one on the arm. See where these are and take a picture and post up here. Those are a good indication if your tensioner is getting weak.

Well, I think this tells the story, don't you? It's actually just a hair past it's operating range, from the arrows. Can I just get some confirmation on this? I think I need a new tensioner? Anyone second that?



...oh, and I wouldn't buy a tensioner from a junkyard, since there's no telling how much life is left on it.

1oldman wrote:
While I am thinking of it:

Here is the Helm web site: http://www.helminc.com
Also for your vehicle: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.as ... itemtype=N

I don’t know about a 97 SE, but it looks like from the Helm web site, there is one manual set for all H platform cars. In '92 there was one set of 3 manuals for the SE and another set of 3 manuals for the SSE/SSEi.

Awesome, thanks. I don't have the money for the service manual right now, but it's good to know where to get it when I do. From what I hear they pay for themselves in no time (especially on 14 year old cars).

Or E-bay where most people get them: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Bon ... 35adda66d2

You better jump on the set myfirstbonnie found on ebay. I called myself looking on ebay first and found none. - BC

Does anyone know if Drivability/Emissions is included in one of the volumes of the set? My FSMs are setup different for a ‘92 and I have never seen a set for a ‘97 -BC

In FSM's, diagnostics are generally code based. Pull the code, then follow the diagnostic. The problem is that they assume you have a Tech I or II.

...since people are surfing this thread, could someone scroll back up, look at those pictures, and let me know if my tensioner needs replaced? I mean, I'm pretty sure I should replace it from where the arrow is at, but wanted a second opinion. Thanks!

Yup, replace the tensioner and belt while you're at it.

Okay, great, I will. So...next question - why is there such a huge price difference between these three tensioners, and would I be okay to go with the least expensive one, or is there some great benefit from going with the middle or most expensive?

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 60+2060004

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 60+2060004

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 2615748___#

...keeping in mind that on the Advance Auto link, I will actually use a discount code (adding one more thing to make it a $75 purchase), and get it for a lot cheaper than that...

If/when I have to replace mine, I'm going to go AC Delco. The Delco on RockAuto is $75.

Okay here is it from where I am. I ain't no expert or mechanic:

The tick marks you took a pic of are to let you know if the belt is stretched too far and needs replacing. If I am looking at it correctly, the belt is just barely short enough to work correctly. If it stretches any more, it will need to be replaced.


From Page 6A8-8 Volume 1 ‘92 SSE/SSEi FSM
Accessory Drive Belt Tension Check
Tool Required: J 23600-B (and a break bar or ratchet with 15mm socket I added the comment in paren)

Measure
1. Run engine with no accessories on, until the engine is warmed up. Shut the engine off and read the belt tension using J 23600-B placed half way between the generator and the power steering pump. For vehicles equipped with a supercharger check inner belt tension between supercharger and idler pulley. Note reading and remove J 23600-B.
2 .Start the engine with accessories off and allow the engine to stabilize for 15 seconds. Turn the engine off. Using a 15mm socket, apply clockwise force (tighten) to the tensioner pulley bolt. Release the force and immediately take a tension reading without disturbing belt tensioner position.
3. Using the same wrench, apply a counterclockwise force to the tensioner pulley bolt and raise the pulley to eliminate all tension. Slowly lower the pulley to the belt and take a tension reading without disturbing the belt tensioner position.
4. Average the three readings. If the average of the three readings in not between 225 and 315 N (50 and 70 lbs), and the belt is within the tensioners operating range, replace the tensioner.

Use caution, be sure and follow safety procedures when working on a car as you can be severely injured or killed.

1oldman wrote:Okay here is it from where I am. I ain't no expert or mechanic:

The tick marks you took a pic of are to let you know if the belt is stretched too far and needs replacing. If I am looking at it correctly, the belt is just barely short enough to work correctly. If it stretches any more, it will need to be replaced.


From Page 6A8-8 Volume 1 ‘92 SSE/SSEi FSM
Accessory Drive Belt Tension Check
Tool Required: J 23600-B (and a break bar or ratchet with 15mm socket I added the comment in paren)

Measure
1. Run engine with no accessories on, until the engine is warmed up. Shut the engine off and read the belt tension using J 23600-B placed half way between the generator and the power steering pump. For vehicles equipped with a supercharger check inner belt tension between supercharger and idler pulley. Note reading and remove J 23600-B.
2 .Start the engine with accessories off and allow the engine to stabilize for 15 seconds. Turn the engine off. Using a 15mm socket, apply clockwise force (tighten) to the tensioner pulley bolt. Release the force and immediately take a tension reading without disturbing belt tensioner position.
3. Using the same wrench, apply a counterclockwise force to the tensioner pulley bolt and raise the pulley to eliminate all tension. Slowly lower the pulley to the belt and take a tension reading without disturbing the belt tensioner position.
4. Average the three readings. If the average of the three readings in not between 225 and 315 N (50 and 70 lbs), and the belt is within the tensioners operating range, replace the tensioner.

Use caution, be sure and follow safety procedures when working on a car as you can be severely injured or killed.

This is good information, thanks. I just don't have a belt tension gauge, and if I was in that good with someone who had one for me to borrow, they would also float me the work until I get paid this coming Friday (sucks getting paid bi-weekly sometimes). So...this is great that it's here for anyone's future reference, but for me right now, I can't utilize the information. Thanks for posting it though.