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Since it all comes in one piece, I decided to replace the whole thing, instead of trying to check the voltage out.

Deposed the switch, here you can see a crack in the plastic housing that is supposed to be driven by the gearbox command axle (I'm sure there is another name for that).


On the second picture, you can see the whole assembly, with the various cables including the purple (blackened here) cable that goes to the starter solenoid.


I need to wait 3 more hours before getting my new switch.

General mode of failure is on the inside. Some of the contacts get worn from years of constant "PRND" repetitions. But that's the first I've seen of this particular failure....

Don't be alarmed when you install the new switch and it still doesn't work. It will need to be adjusted. Easiest way to this is to have a helper turn the ignition switch and keep in the "start" position while you rotate the assembly. Once it bumps, tighten it down, then check for neutral start.

So final update:

It fixed both my trunk switch in the door and most of all: I can drive it to work tomorrow.

To answer you, Sandrock, there is a gauging hole / guide in the assembly, you can actually see it on the close-up picture of the broken part. Aligning the holes as described in the documentation was enough to get everything back to normal.

Thank you all for your help. You're my first reference when my car goes down.