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Signs of an axle with a short life. This will be replaced before the engine goes back in.

That's the same axle that spewed on me a few years ago after a Woodburn burn. All that had to be done was to remove the axle and reboot it. It's apparantly common for the band to loosen and it needed to be relubbed and a new boot/clamp installed. Everything else was perfect so don't necessarily replace the whole axle. Pull it apart first and inspect. A boot is cheap and can be purchased separately from GM.

Now that you mention it, there is an axle shop here close that rebuilds these things. I think I will just have them look at it. Maybe they can just re-clamp it. The boot is still in good shape.

Somebody named Matt is $50 poorer and a ton happier.

Word on the street is the cam was straightened within 0.0005" end to end. Happy Matt is driving home from the shop.

Thats pretty interesting considering I don't think you can get any better than .0005...

Oh, Ogre is happy! Cam slid in and rotates great. After he straightened it he polished all the lobes. The rod smacked the #3 cylinder intake lobe and since the lobes were flame hardened, it did not damage it.

Back to work, more pictures to come.

Here is the critter:


Inside the block, all the way this time:


Balance shaft gears:


How it sits until tomorrow when I get my parts from Intense. The rocker bolts are only started by hand because I will be putting in the re-usable ones.

Looking good Matt

I'd swear that engine is smiling.

It's been awhile since I've had time to work on this, but we got busy today.

Sitting next to my other current project, a Colt Commander Series 80 45acp, in for frame modifications and fitting of a high-ride beavertail grip safety:


Today's main tool:


Tyler learning how to install thread inserts. We're using steel inserts to replace the remaining threads from cutting out half the threaded bosses in the supercharger outlet earlier in this topic:























And finished up the inlet:





The bore misalignment from the factory is entirely fixed now. We've also disassembled the nosedrive. Next steps are the new bearings and coating.

On my end, I got the false knock kit installed. I ended up taking the front cover off again. When I was cranking it over by hand, I was getting a "puff" out of the intake ports so I knew the timing was off. The JB performance roller set I am using is set up to adjust the valve timing on the crank and I was in the wrong keyway. All better now.

The other thing I did was pulled the battery from the car and "hot wired" the motor. I cranked it over several times and actually have oil flowing to the lifters like it should. So, I guess I have done something right so far to have oil at the top of the motor.

When I've done my engine swaps, I always connect the ICM last...this way, I can crank the engine for 5 seconds about 5 times to ensure oil gets to where it needs to before it ever starts. With that new of an engine, you should see some pretty nice pressure once it starts

Just did a compression check:

1. 170.......2. 165
3. 180.......4. 165
5. 165.......6. 170

Why is 3 so much higher? That's the cylinder that snapped the rod isn't it? More power on that one.

Paul, this is an L32 longblock.

Paul, this is an L32 longblock.

I know, so does that mean there's supposed to be 9% more compression in one cylinder than most of the others? Rule of thumb is all should be within 10% of one another.

FSM range Matt read to me last night was VERY broad, with a minimum of 100psi. He's well within spec with those numbers.

According to the FSM there should be no less than 100 psi on each cylinder with the lowest reading being no less than 70% of the highest.

So, 180 x .7 = 126

Also, on a side note, this was on dry cylinders, no oil was added to the combustion chambers.

And on a motor that hadn't run with oil pressure in how long? Pretty good numbers. I'd still like to see you do a wet compression test before install. Easier to do it now than later.

EDIT:

Supercharger parts are degreased, masked, and pre-heating in the oven for the wrinkle coating. I'm accellerating my schedule on these parts to try to match Matt's shaved schedule, since his motor is about ready to go in. I have pics of the entire process so far, and will keep shooting as I get through it.

While they pre-heat, I have just enough time to make a nice stiff drink. I get very nervous doing this. It's a real trick to get the right finish/wrinkle on all three parts, and have all three match correctly. If you bugger it up, there's no going back. You have to live with it.

There are some tricks to getting the right finish, and I've seen very few attempts that come close to my quality standard.

1. Mask CAREFULLY after fully degreasing. These parts went through a 4-step degreasing process first.
2. De-burr all sharp edges before cleaning.
3. Pre-heat the parts correctly, and take their temperature. The 3 main parts have different masses, so they heat up at different rates. I remove them from the oven and shoot them at 150°F, then return them to the oven immediately.
4. Applying an even coat on each part, and the same amount from part to part is CRITICAL for cosmetics as well as performance. A very dense pattern of fine wrinkles is best for cooling.
5. You have to work FAST while the parts are at the proper temperature. FAST! Move back and forth for each part QUICKLY without sacrificing uniform coating thickness.



The nosedrive ribs on the pulley end were 'lowered' right before final de-greasing so the ZZP puller/install tool wouldn't damage them any more. They already had nicks and dings. Masking done, and in the oven for preheat:







Shooting the underside 'removal leverage notches' first:





Now shooting the body:












Taste for the proper consistency and thickness:


Back in the oven for curing/wrinkling:





The result is an EXTREMELY durable finish (trust me, I alternate a couple superchargers that I wrinkle coated SEASONALLY, and they don't have a chip or scratch on them) that is cosmetically superior to the factory finish and has a proven ability to shed heat, enhancing performance beyond the 'out of the box' blower. We've tested these side-by-side at WCBF for 3 consecutive years now.

I'll chase the threads for the magnetic nosedrive plug we installed last year after it cures to get the paint out of it.

Hey, you forgot to plug the threaded hole for the fill/magnetic plug!

Looking good. The time frame is leaning towards a motor drop on Saturday after I get off work.