Installing Rokford Fosgate 3sixty.1 in 2000+

[Red Rocket]

I just can't stand being without my bass so I've been researching different ways to integrate my subs without messing with the stock head unit. I'm looking at buying the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.1 or JL CleanSweep to use as my signal processor. I have the Bose system so I believe that I need to tap into the speaker leads right before the Bose amp with the signal processor. If I'm wrong, please let me know. The rest of the installation should be fairly simple, especially with having the battery right under the back seat. Any tips or suggestions on the install would be appreciated.

Link to the 3sixty.1
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ULgmRKkrpT ... 5753SIXTY1
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products ... _id=106185

Link to the Clean Sweep
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/ ... =136441DSP
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_clea ... rod_id=369

[99ssei]

Could save yourself a couple hundred dollars by going with a line output converter:

http://www.pac-audio.com/products/produ ... -Amplifier

[grandprix104]

The difference is that the processors from JL, Rockford, and MTX actually boost the bass as the volume is turned up. The factory deck reduces bass with volume in order to save the factory speakers from certain death. The more expensive processors produce a much cleaner and far more balanced audio signal. Some also integrate a line input that you can plug an MP3 player into without massive wiring. I would check out MTX's rEQ. They are the cheapest and seem to have a good following. I just can't imagine spending $600 for one when the MTX is about $100 on ebay.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... category0=

[99ssei]

Even better idea.....get an after market HU and then you can run RCAs and have complete control over your system.
As grandprix104 mentioned, just no point of spending $600 on a processor when you can spend $300 TOPS and get a bad a@@ HU. Remember, in audio...you're only as strong as your weakest link. Even with the best processor, garbage in...garbage out. Today's HU's have increased power over older stock systems. For example, I'm running a SONY (model # eludes me at the moment) that is pushing 52 X 4 RMS, Stock front speakers, Kenwood Rears, 1 - 12" Alpine (SWE-1242), 1 Alpine 200 X 1 amp. The HU is so loud and matched perfectly with my subs that there's no need for an additional amp. Trust me, you can hear me coming down the street and it ain't my exhaust

Seeing you're pushing 1,000 watts on your subs, you definitely are need of an up to date HU. Otherwise, you'll drown out your sound and people like me will laugh at you when you drive by

[grandprix104]

Although an aftermarket HU is the best option for sound quality it isn't always worth the hassle. In the pre 2k bonnies it is cake to install one. The newer bonneviles have all sorts of extra crap you need to buy to keep things working the way they should. Plus some of us like the factory look (myself included). The only AM HU I like is the JVC DDin unit, but it is still to much hassle and $$ to get it hooked up correctly. Especially if you have the steering wheel controls and the premium audio system. If I had the cash I might consider it but it is far more complicated than throwing in a new deck in say my old 94 grand prix.

[Red Rocket]

Although an aftermarket HU is the best option for sound quality it isn't always worth the hassle. In the pre 2k bonnies it is cake to install one. The newer bonneviles have all sorts of extra crap you need to buy to keep things working the way they should. Plus some of us like the factory look (myself included). The only AM HU I like is the JVC DDin unit, but it is still to much hassle and $$ to get it hooked up correctly. Especially if you have the steering wheel controls and the premium audio system. If I had the cash I might consider it but it is far more complicated than throwing in a new deck in say my old 94 grand prix.

Exactly. Thank you for explaining everything to 99ssei so well.

I bought the RF 3sixty.1 because of all the adjustments that can be made, the dependability of RF products, the ability to hook up everything multiple ways, and an AUX input. It retails for $400 but I was able to buy it new from a member of a forum for $175.

I should hopefully have it hooked up by the weekend so I'll let everyone know how that works out.

[grandprix104]

SWEET!!

I can't wait to hear how it works out.

[99ssei]

Although an aftermarket HU is the best option for sound quality it isn't always worth the hassle. In the pre 2k bonnies it is cake to install one. The newer bonneviles have all sorts of extra crap you need to buy to keep things working the way they should. Plus some of us like the factory look (myself included). The only AM HU I like is the JVC DDin unit, but it is still to much hassle and $$ to get it hooked up correctly. Especially if you have the steering wheel controls and the premium audio system. If I had the cash I might consider it but it is far more complicated than throwing in a new deck in say my old 94 grand prix.

If you're running your own amps, wiring up a new HU is no problem. What "extra crap" would you need to buy to keep things working the way they should besides the steering wheel radio controls? For the steering wheel controls, use the PAC SWI-X (http://www.pac-audio.com/products/produ ... face#SWI-X). For the HU, you tap into the factory harness for the power, remote and ground. If you're sending a signal to your amps, then you can bypass the factory speaker wiring all together. If you want to use the existing speaker wires (to simplify things) you most certainly can, you just have to know which colors are what. I'm sure someone here has that information.

I agree, after market radios may not look as good as factory.....it may take a little longer to install...but it will sound a hell of lot louder, cleaner, and definitely clearer than tapping off high level speaker inputs using the factory radio as the source.

With $400, I would buy instead (assuming you already have sub and sub amp):

Sony CDX-GT620IP ($125 = CD player with built-in amplifier (17 watts RMS CEA-2006/52 peak x 4 channels)

Alpine MRP-F300 4-channel amplifier ($130 = 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
OR 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)).

PAC SWI-X ($40)

And the rest would go toward cables, solder and tape. Installation would take a couple hours.

[Red Rocket]

Although an aftermarket HU is the best option for sound quality it isn't always worth the hassle. In the pre 2k bonnies it is cake to install one. The newer bonneviles have all sorts of extra crap you need to buy to keep things working the way they should. Plus some of us like the factory look (myself included). The only AM HU I like is the JVC DDin unit, but it is still to much hassle and $$ to get it hooked up correctly. Especially if you have the steering wheel controls and the premium audio system. If I had the cash I might consider it but it is far more complicated than throwing in a new deck in say my old 94 grand prix.

If you're running your own amps, wiring up a new HU is no problem. What "extra crap" would you need to buy to keep things working the way they should besides the steering wheel radio controls? For the steering wheel controls, use the PAC SWI-X (http://www.pac-audio.com/products/produ ... face#SWI-X). For the HU, you tap into the factory harness for the power, remote and ground. If you're sending a signal to your amps, then you can bypass the factory speaker wiring all together. If you want to use the existing speaker wires (to simplify things) you most certainly can, you just have to know which colors are what. I'm sure someone here has that information.

I agree, after market radios may not look as good as factory.....it may take a little longer to install...but it will sound a hell of lot louder, cleaner, and definitely clearer than tapping off high level speaker inputs using the factory radio as the source.

With $400, I would buy instead (assuming you already have sub and sub amp):

Sony CDX-GT620IP ($125 = CD player with built-in amplifier (17 watts RMS CEA-2006/52 peak x 4 channels)

Alpine MRP-F300 4-channel amplifier ($130 = 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
OR 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)).

PAC SWI-X ($40)

And the rest would go toward cables, solder and tape. Installation would take a couple hours.

You really don't understand how the 2000+ Bonnevilles work so please stop recommending that stuff. I am very knowledgeable with car audio myself and know that a head unit would be much more practical in most instances but not this one.

The 2000+ Bonnevilles use GM DataBus II systems which control a lot of different functions of the car, like chimes. If you pull out the radio from a 2000+, you won't find any wires. It's called a Dock and Lock system because the radio is simply pushed back into a docking area and locks into a connector; absolutely no wires anywhere.

There are kits that say they will make the installation smooth but I've seen a ton of horror stories and only a few success stories. Also, my dad gave me the car as a graduation present and said that he doesn't want me to mess around with the sound system so adding a signal processor is the cheapest and easiest way to do that. The sound quality with the signal processor will actually be far superior to most head units. The 3sixty.1 is a top of the line product and has all kinds of tuning options to make it sound perfect.

[99ssei]

You really don't understand how the 2000+ Bonnevilles work so please stop recommending that stuff. I am very knowledgeable with car audio myself and know that a head unit would be much more practical in most instances but not this one.

The 2000+ Bonnevilles use GM DataBus II systems which control a lot of different functions of the car, like chimes. If you pull out the radio from a 2000+, you won't find any wires. It's called a Dock and Lock system because the radio is simply pushed back into a docking area and locks into a connector; absolutely no wires anywhere.

Problem: Installing an aftermarket receiver in many late model (2000-up) General Motors vehicles means losing ONSTAR system functions, the Bose amplified speaker system, audible safety warnings, and the chime that warns the door is open.

Solution: Metra's GMOS-04 GM Class II data bus interface lets you replace the factory receiver in these vehicles without losing these functions. Connect your in-dash receiver to the GMOS-04 interface's RCA input jacks. You'll get the great sound you want, and keep these important features intact. The Bose amplified speakers and the ONSTAR system will operate with your new radio, as well as the door chime and audible safety warnings.

With OnStar
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DsvL3VaSv5 ... =120GMOS04

http://www.carstereos.com/databus_replace.html

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop ... /SFV/30046

Without OnStar
PAC C2R-GM32R
http://www.pac-audio.com/products/produ ... #C2R-GM32R

For 2000-2005 GM cars using Class 2 serial data and the dash mounted connector. Retains all safety and warning systems. For use when OnStar is not present or retained. Works with or without factory amplified audio systems.
• Retains all warning chimes including back-up chimes, memory seats, low fuel, door/hatch ajar and others.
• Provides a +12volt accessory wire.
• Retains R.A.P. (Retained Accessory Power).
• Supplied wire harness to connect aftermarket stereo to factory speakers.
Compatible Vehicles:
2000-2005 Buick LeSabre, Pontiac Bonneville
2001-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora
Latest Revision: v1.3.5

[Red Rocket]

You really don't understand how the 2000+ Bonnevilles work so please stop recommending that stuff. I am very knowledgeable with car audio myself and know that a head unit would be much more practical in most instances but not this one.

The 2000+ Bonnevilles use GM DataBus II systems which control a lot of different functions of the car, like chimes. If you pull out the radio from a 2000+, you won't find any wires. It's called a Dock and Lock system because the radio is simply pushed back into a docking area and locks into a connector; absolutely no wires anywhere.

Problem: Installing an aftermarket receiver in many late model (2000-up) General Motors vehicles means losing ONSTAR system functions, the Bose amplified speaker system, audible safety warnings, and the chime that warns the door is open.

Solution: Metra's GMOS-04 GM Class II data bus interface lets you replace the factory receiver in these vehicles without losing these functions. Connect your in-dash receiver to the GMOS-04 interface's RCA input jacks. You'll get the great sound you want, and keep these important features intact. The Bose amplified speakers and the ONSTAR system will operate with your new radio, as well as the door chime and audible safety warnings.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DsvL3VaSv5 ... =120GMOS04

I'm trying to put this nicely but, what don't you understand? I already bought the RF 3sixty.1 and am going that route for a reason. As I stated before:

There are kits that say they will make the installation smooth but I've seen a ton of horror stories and only a few success stories. Also, my dad gave me the car as a graduation present and said that he doesn't want me to mess around with the sound system so adding a signal processor is the cheapest and easiest way to do that. The sound quality with the signal processor will actually be far superior to most head units. The 3sixty.1 is a top of the line product and has all kinds of tuning options to make it sound perfect.

End of discussion please.

[99ssei]

Sorry for trying to help.
Didn't mean to upset your daddy.
FYI - splicing wires is still "messing around with the sound system."
Best of luck.

[Red Rocket]

By the way, could anybody suggest a good remote turn on spot near the rear of the 2000+ Bonnevilles? I was thinking about the Bose amp but I would prefer not to touch it.

[Red Rocket]

I finally got around to installing it today with a friend and everything is in and working!

My friend took a bunch of pictures with his camera so I will do a little write up when I get around to it. While everything is in and working properly, we still need to build a wall or rack for the amp and signal processor so the trunk is currently an absolute disaster. It was a surprisingly easy install and I'd be glad to help anyone who has questions about doing it in their car. Give it at least a week or two for the write up and probably about a month or so for final install pictures.

[Phyrestorm]

Awesome man, next month I plan on working on my audio system, I look forward to the write up and also the pictures as well!

[robjr69]

Check out my pics for my car and how they installed my sub. you may like it

[drdivo]

I finally got around to installing it today with a friend and everything is in and working!

My friend took a bunch of pictures with his camera so I will do a little write up when I get around to it. While everything is in and working properly, we still need to build a wall or rack for the amp and signal processor so the trunk is currently an absolute disaster. It was a surprisingly easy install and I'd be glad to help anyone who has questions about doing it in their car. Give it at least a week or two for the write up and probably about a month or so for final install pictures.

I'm anxiously waiting for your write up - I'm planning on this same mod for my 05 GXP

[Red Rocket]

Sorry for the delay everyone. My buddy took all of the pictures and he's been very busy so I don't have the pictures yet. Whenever I get the pictures, they'll be up.

[95SLE]

Red Rocket:
I am intersted in the pics as well The RF 3Sixty.1 is on my list as well as the JL Audio CL 441 dsp. I believe it will make a cleaner install, provide a quick hook up to a 4 channel amp and provide an easy access point to integrate an iPod into the car.

My plan is to purchase a male and female DAL connector and bring pins A12, A13, A14, A15, B12, B13, B14, and B15 out of the stock HU and send them to the 3Sixty.1. I found the 32 pin DAL connector at this link. http://bestkits.com/SearchResults.aspx? ... 20-%202005

See product name BHA2001R and BHO2991R. I hope the parts have the correct pin outs cabled. If not I will figure it out. The cost is not too bad at $20 a connector. I will pay it not to butcher the stock wiring.

This way I should be able to retain all the other functions of the stock HU.

[Red Rocket]

Red Rocket:
I am intersted in the pics as well The RF 3Sixty.1 is on my list as well as the JL Audio CL 441 dsp. I believe it will make a cleaner install, provide a quick hook up to a 4 channel amp and provide an easy access point to integrate an iPod into the car.

My plan is to purchase a male and female DAL connector and bring pins A12, A13, A14, A15, B12, B13, B14, and B15 out of the stock HU and send them to the 3Sixty.1. I found the 32 pin DAL connector at this link. http://bestkits.com/SearchResults.aspx? ... 20-%202005

See product name BHA2001R and BHO2991R. I hope the parts have the correct pin outs cabled. If not I will figure it out. The cost is not too bad at $20 a connector. I will pay it not to butcher the stock wiring.

This way I should be able to retain all the other functions of the stock HU.

Sorry about not having any pics. My friend is MIA and I'm super busy. You are correct about all of the things it will do for you.

You don't need that connector that you listed. Simply use the wiring diagram from the FSM to locate which color wires control what in the rear and tap the rear speaker leads. You then run the speaker wire from the taps into the signal processor and you are set. Just hook your amp into the signal processor and your system is complete! You don't want to or need to touch the stock HU at all.