TRanny

[EWC88]

Well I'm going be getting a transmission from Ed and I got a email back today saying they have 2 that will fit. This is what they got and what they told me.

2000 with 86k miles on it. it has the FQ3 option $450
or one from a 2003 with 53k on it. It has the F83 code, meaning you would need to swap your diff and sun gear into it. $525

Now I would think it be way smarter to get the F83 code tranny (even though mine is FQ3 it can still work just need to do adjustments) but what is a diff? that hes saying I would need to swap mine over to it.

[agrazela]

For your 2001 Bonne SE, the 2000 is the far better bet (assuming it's IMS, like from an H-body--NOT PnP, like from a W-body). The 2003 is not a compatible drop-in, regardless of the differential, no matter what car it's from.

Refer back to this thread for the reasons why, it's all covered there:
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =18&t=4286

[EWC88]

The guy from Eds shop looked up my vin and everyone and said even the one from the 03 would be a direct fit just have to swap the diff and sun gear. Is he wrong?

[agrazela]

Well, the 2003 may physically fit your 2001 SE, it just won't work without some major modification / internal parts swapping.

2003+ has a different Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) and calibration, and a different Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) switch--therefore a different valve body and internal harness--from 2000-2002.

So yes, whoever looked that up is wrong if they called it a "direct fit." Errors do occur.

I'm telling you, for a minimal hassle drop-in you want a 2000-2002 n/a H-body trans.

[EWC88]

Ok so the 00 would be best, I was just thinking with the other one have low mileage and close to the engine that be great, cause I don't want to put in a tranny with higher mileage then have to get it rebuilt soon..

[harofreak00]

I could get mine to you for $500 shipped probably

[EWC88]

mileage?

[harofreak00]

146k

[EWC88]

No thanks the 00 with 83k is cheaper so I'd probably go with that..

Question a tranny with 83k on it, is there any signs of stuff I should look for that will start to go on it?

[EWC88]

agrazela, with the tranny that needs the diff and sun gear is that the only thing thats making it not a direct fit? Because I think if that tranny will line up on the mounts and the engine will hook up to it, I might as well go for that, I mean I'm not putting this in my car, someone I know is who owns his on shop will be doing this.

I'm sorry for asking all these questions I just want w.e will be best and last the longest for me..

[agrazela]

agrazela, with the tranny that needs the diff and sun gear is that the only thing thats making it not a direct fit? Because I think if that tranny will line up on the mounts and the engine will hook up to it, I might as well go for that, I mean I'm not putting this in my car, someone I know is who owns his on shop will be doing this.

I'm sorry for asking all these questions I just want w.e will be best and last the longest for me..

By this do you mean the 2003 trans? If so, then no, the diff and sun gear is not the main concern...the thing making it so it will not work is some other internals. Yes, these other internals could be swapped over, but we're talking about some major wear items (valve body and solenoids, channel plate, etc.); that's alot of labor, many of these items likely would need some replacing / rebuilding, and I'd see any of that voiding any warranty from Morad; besides, if you're going to do all that, might as well do a full rebuild on the tranny you've got.

If you are talking about the 2000 trans (and assuming it's IMS and 35/35 drive/driven, like from an n/a H-body)...yes, either it's diffy and sun gear will match what you have, or you'll have to swap yours in (easy job...assuming your current diffy is good); otherwise it will drop right in.

The 2000 trans with 86k miles on it. Yep, that's some miles. What to look for? Darkened, burnt fluid or black particles in the fluid; a lot of sludge, metal particles, or clutch chips (look kinda like dark-colored paint flecks) in the pan or filter; these would be bad signs. Might want to check the drive chain for stretch. Might consider swapping in a new, hardened 4th clutch hub (or at least inspecting the one in there). Might put in new solenoids. Note: the chain, hub and solenoids would require some tear-down.

These are just "signs" of course; nothing can guarantee that the clutches, bands, seals, valves, solenoids, etc. are OK with the trans out of a car. Morad does warrant his stuff, right?

BTW, I forget: what exactly is wrong with your current trans? What's the most you're willing to spend? How long you planning to own the car? Have you considered a rebuild?

(A full rebuild would be best and longest-lasting; and though not the cheapest, may be a better value in the long run)

[EWC88]

right now my car can not go into reverse at all. If I'm parked on a level ground I have to really hit the gas (high RPMs) for it to kick in. Thats all I know thats wrong with it. And I was thinking about putting in the engine as well cause it wouldn't be that much and the one on it now has 130+K on it now and I figured one with less milegae would be good.


I need this car really to last through out college. Right now I'm in my 2nd year. So I might have 3 more years possibly not to sure.

[agrazela]

OK, I dug way back to May and found your original "what's up with my trans" thread:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... f=18&t=567

It occurs to me there are a lot of unanswered questions...

Here's what we know:
You're having a transmission issue, that has gotten progressively worse over the last 3 or 4 months.
You want to fix this car to go at least another 3 years.

Here's what I'll assume (correct me if any of this is wrong):
There's nothing wrong with the engine, and it doesn't need replacing (haven't seen anything yet to suggest engine's a problem--and I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it).
You don't have the capability to DIY your own tranny teardown / rebuild: shop, tools, time, money, whatever (if you did, I assume you'd have mentioned that as a possibility).
Your budget is tight (you are a student, plus you haven't mentioned a shop rebuild as a possibility).

Now, here's what I don't know:
Have you done any diagnostic work? Checked your fluid level and condition? Dropped your pan and checked it and the filter? Your problem sounds like the classic "bang start" from a worn input clutch piston inner seal...but it could be as simple as too little (or too much) fluid in the trans
IF you need trans work, what is your budget? $500? $1000? If you spent $2000 but the car might then go another 6, 7, 8 years, would you do that?
How long can you be without your car? A day? A week? Longer?
Your buddy with the shop, how familiar is he with these transmissions? Would you trust him to go inside your current trans? Does he have the 4T65E specific tools?
What kind of warranty are you getting from Morad if you go that way? What if you swap in another trans and it has the same (or some other) issue? What's your fallback?

[EWC88]

Ed's warranty is 90 days..

Time without car doesn't matter I'm driving something else for the time being. Price wise to get fix I was thinking around 2 grand for it to be prefectly done. I haven't check my tranny pan at all yet, you think I should drop that and see whats all in it? Also I was thinking about maybe having is it AAMCO rebuild my tranny, are they any good? I want real good work and I don't know whater a mom and pop shop would be better.

[GoldenBullet]

Ed's warranty is 90 days..

Time without car doesn't matter I'm driving something else for the time being. Price wise to get fix I was thinking around 2 grand for it to be prefectly done. I haven't check my tranny pan at all yet, you think I should drop that and see whats all in it? Also I was thinking about maybe having is it AAMCO rebuild my tranny, are they any good? I want real good work and I don't know whater a mom and pop shop would be better.

ill let you know about aamco, my car is currently in there being rebuilt right now, so far they have been honest and fair with me, i was supposed to get the car on monday but when they took it for the road test the TCC wasnt engaging right so they took it apart to replace a couple solenoids at no extra cost to me. so far im happy with them but i will be able to give my full review when i get the car, hopefully tomorrow.

[EWC88]

If you can that will be great!

Also about the fluid thing, I haven't put any tranny fluid into it so that would tell me it couldn't be that right?

[agrazela]

How is the level on the dipstick and the color/smell of your fluid?

If it's way low or very worn out, this could be the cause of your problems.

[JAmon]

For 2 grand you should be able to get a complete rebuild, easy. I would suggest taking it to a trans shop, and let them diagnose it. I just had mine rebuilt less than a month ago. I got two quotes from two different shops, and had some pretty specific things I wanted done, beyond a standard rebuild. The first place was less, but I didn't get a good vibe from them on what else I wanted done. It cost me $46 to have the first shop hook it up to their computer and check it out. First place wanted $1900, second one was $2100. A friend at work had his done for $1300. These prices include them dropping the trans and reinstalling it.

[EWC88]

I'll have to check the fluid when I get back from class, but about 10mins ago I figured I'd fire it up since it hasn't been for some days now. Well I know the battery is dead so I jumped it with a sable that I'm borrowing but when I turned the key it did not want to start. It kept clicking then it started to sound like it wanted to start then it finally did. Could that be cause I hooked it up and try starting it right away? Or is something else wrong?

JAmon what exactly did you get done to yours? Also do you suggest mom and pop shops or bigger known business?

[EWC88]

What should the fluid smell like?