Looking to rebuild a 1995 SSEi for another 20yrs of service

[Pikeface]

I would like to make my SSEi reliable again.

For starts, I have read the info contained in http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 24362.html.

I am planning to do all the fixes required for an "upgrade" although the end goal is not more performance, but doubling its life (yes: it will be a dinosaur among all the electrical vehicles by then).

A few notes:

• The car has 180k.
  It has a visible coolant leak on the front.
  SC was replaced a few 50 kmiles ago (with factory pulley size)
  The trans was rebuilt at 100k (but I now feel ripped off since it is failing again, already).
  Engine mounts are new (OEM).
  Drive axles are new.
  Shocks and springs are new.
  I own an actron CP9185 that can read OBD1.5

The goal would be to pull the engine + Transmission out:
* Replace all engine gaskets, inspect what needs to be (I need help for the list of things to watch for inside)
* rebuild the transmission with performance parts (I don't want to do it again 75kmiles down the road)

From the article, here is my list:

• - New fuel pump Walbro 255
  - Fuel injectors need to be cleaned and flow matched within 3 to 5% - replace otherwise
  - Check fuel pressure after fuel pressure regulator (Target 2.7Bars)
  - Replace O2 sensors with new AC/Delcoor Denso
  - Replace lower intake manifold gaskets
  - Replace lower plastic coolant bypass with aftermarket steel replacement
  - Replace all idler pulleys
  - Replace water pump with AC/Delco with a cast (not stamped) impeller.
  - Replace Belts with Gates or Good Year Gatorback
  - Fix the exhaust manifolds (Mine are definitely cracked)
  • - Install exhaust gaskets as well
    - see viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23880
  - Transmission
  • - use sonnax update components
    - use Transgo 4T60E Jr. shift kit
    - New known-brand torque converter (brand TBD)

If at all possible, I would like to do the job myself at a few exceptions, including the transmission rebuild, so any advice on the tools, engine bench… is welcome.

This is not my daily driver (anymore) and I am going to take my time to do it (between the job and the family).

Any thoughts?

Thank you.

[95naSTA]

Not a bad plan so far.

Add checking the exhaust manifolds for leaks and rewelding them.

And what about the suspension?

Im assuming no mention of rust repair means the body is in good shape?

[Pikeface]

The suspensions are new (a few thousand miles), springs and shocks.

The body will get a good inspection once the engine is out; but there is no apparent damage to it.
It's been regularly greased over the years... oil leak, drive axle boots...
And it is an AZ car, so low exposure to humidity or salt.
I've seen posts where people tend to look at the gas trap door, and there is nothing there. Looks brand new.

I need to add a tech-info to the list... Anyone knows a good source?

[J Wikoff]

You can get higher ratio roller rockers from Hella Terra, a custom cam from Crow (you'll want a blower grind for Australia's Holden Commodore, explain to them it's a US market Series 1 Buick V6, they call it something else), a high-flo cat from Magnaflow, and probably some stronger valve springs.

[Pikeface]

Taking notes… However, the mods I am looking for are more intended to increased life and reliability than performance. Therefore I need to make sure it helps this goal (let me know if I am misunderstanding and how: I want to learn ).

Sure, If I can get a few ponies out of it, I will not complain, but for the thrills I have another supercharged engine in the garage and it's bolted to a wagon.

Thanks

[Pikeface]

By the way, I need a torque converter too...

Any known-good brand that could be recommended here?

Thanks.

[MattStrike]

Ah yes, rebuilding transmissions...

If you're planning to do everything yourself, definitely get an engine stand. The biggest hurdle is figuring out tools and a work space for the trans rebuild. You don't want to do that job on the floor. If you can do basic metal fab, you can build a holder for the transmission that fits your engine stand. The one I made bolts to the top two bell housing bolts and the rear right transmission mount, built it from some angle iron and square channel that I salvaged from the local metal recycler for ~$3. That way you can rotate the trans as you need to gain access to everything. If you don't have the ability to make your own simple tools to compress springs then you're in for some sticker shock.

Get a rebuild book for it, I think there's even a PDF online for it somewhere, keep it in the house and make copies of the pages you need so you don't dirty the book. An assortment of picks and snap ring pliers (round tip and flat tip types), you'll need a bench with a ~1.5" hole in it, automatic transmission clutch spring compressor that will fit the various clutches in the trans, I have an assortment of PVC pipe adapters and a length of all thread I use for that. Other tools that make things easier are a basic cordless impact driver with a adapter to a 3/8 socket drive, I like having a rolling shelf that I can put parts on in the order they came out, a few plastic organizer trays to separate and store fasteners and small parts, and a camera to keep track of every step of the way so you can reference a photo if you think you're missing something. Lay out each valve in the valve body in the orientation and direction they come out of and get a photo, things like that. There are so many pieces that you're going to forget something and the pictures will be invaluable.

Oh, never remove anything from the valve body if it's not parallel to the floor. There are check balls inside the valve body that will fall out if it's at any angle. Lifting parts straight up will keep the check balls in their respective channels, and you can then get pictures of their proper locations. Between the trans and the valve body is a metal plate, there are check balls on both sides of that plate. Try to get the plate with the valve body at once, that way you can flip it upside down on the bench and remove the plate without spilling the check balls.

One of the biggest things is the seals. They are directional, and you need a lip seal roller if the rebuild kit doesn't have one. The lip seals inside the forward input drum (houses the 3rd and input clutch) are very difficult to get in right. They are in a hard to reach place, smaller, only work if they are on right but very difficult to got them on right. It takes patience and high dexterity smaller fingers. The other challenge is re-sizing the teflon ring seals, there are youtube videos out there for that.

Other common sense things include looking for worn out hard parts and bronze bushings. If bushings are worn out and have a sloppy fit, they need to be pressed out and new ones pressed in. I got lucky and have a trans machine shop locally that can do that, they charged me $10 or something to replace two in the last trans I rebuilt. Be on the lookout for worn splines and cracks.

Something else to think about would be a 4t65e swap. You would have to change to the series 2 wire harness and PCM, and make a few changes to engine sensor/locations as well as a wire harness adapter, but you gain the ability to tune in addition to the better trans.

[StraTact]

I know it's an AZ car, so please tell me about the suspension's subframe's bushing mounting holes and their respective subframe bushings, especially #2 (left and right), being the center ones. I'm curious how well they held up assuming they have hardly any rust.

[Pikeface]

Hi StraTact,

I'll get pictures when I have a chance.

[StraTact]

Hi Pikeface,

No pics necessary, but would be nice to see anyways.

A common problem up north is that both #2 bushings punch through their respective sub-frame bushing holes, due to rust, therefore widening the hole diameters from 2" to about 3.5", or even worse such that the sub-frame and bushings need replacement. Sub-frames are probably plentiful & cheap in AZ, but not up north.

[Jdwcrw04]

Following. I would like to get my 1994 SSE to last many more years...