Fuel pump

Chat about all things Bonneville (and related cars). Off-topic stuff should be in the lounge, and all mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.
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Solid_speed
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Fuel pump

Post by Solid_speed »

Is it hard to change a fuel pump? I know there's an access in the trunk but is it a difficult procedure? Also how do I bleed the lines and release pressure so i don't go squirting fuel everywhere. Last question, can this be done while smoking a cigarette?? Ok, ok that last one was a joke and I hope it doesn't deter you guys from giving me any serious answers, I'm simply trying to add a bit of humor to my frustrating predicament!
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by 96 SSEi »

if you are 5 feet tall, it will be easy - the hardest part is working in the trunk - the rest is pretty easy
you will pull the fuel pump relay/fuse while the car is running - this will eat most of the gas

there is a write-up on this in tech info i think- please do a search.....dont worry: it's not that hard!!
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Solid_speed
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by Solid_speed »

I did try finding it in tech info perhaps I didn't look close enough? Before I do switch out the pump, could a clogged fuel filter cause these same symptoms? My car won't start at all so ill need to drain the lines. When turning the key to on I don't hear the usual buzz from the pump priming. My father in law suggested it might be the filter clogged and that may be a reason the pump won't prime as usual, so the pump may be good. Is this true?
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by 96 SSEi »

hi, best thing for you is to check fuel pressure at the rail - the pump may be good but the fuel pressure regulator may be bad
also, please check the fuse and relay under the seat.

HERE IS A LINK TO GAS Gauge REPAIR, THE REMOVAL AND INSTALL IS THE SAME.....http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... ?hilit=gas PLEASE be 100% sure its the issue......keep the money in your pocket!!!
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by Oldman »

And to answer your last question - Yes, you can do this with a lit cigarette in your mouth! But only once!
Solid_speed
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by Solid_speed »

This is his wife and I can't believe you told him that... He did what you said and smoked while doing it in the garage and he's dead and blew up half our house nearly killing the children too! Wth is wrong with you!!
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by 96 SSEi »

Solid_speed wrote:This is his wife and I can't believe you told him that... He did what you said and smoked while doing it in the garage and he's dead and blew up half our house nearly killing the children too! Wth is wrong with you!!

I hope this is a worse joke than the last one!!
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by MKMike »

Solid_speed wrote:I did try finding it in tech info perhaps I didn't look close enough? Before I do switch out the pump, could a clogged fuel filter cause these same symptoms? My car won't start at all so ill need to drain the lines. When turning the key to on I don't hear the usual buzz from the pump priming. My father in law suggested it might be the filter clogged and that may be a reason the pump won't prime as usual, so the pump may be good. Is this true?
If the pump isn't running, I hope you checked the fuel pump fuse and relay.

A clogged filter won't stop the pump from turning on but it can restrict the flow of fuel enough to lower the fuel pressure.
It would be a good idea to replace it.

To check fuel pressures, here's what you do:

(There is a valve, covered by a plastic cap on the metal fuel rail that feeds the fuel injectors, which you connect the gauge to.)
1.Turn OFF the ignition.
2.Turn OFF the air conditioning system.

Wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure connection when connecting or disconnecting the gauge in order to reduce the risk of fire.
The towel will absorb any fuel leakage that occurs.

3.Thread the fitting on the pressure gauge hose onto the fuel pressure fitting.
4.Place the bleed hose of the fuel pressure gauge into an approved gasoline container .
5.Turn ON the ignition.
6.Bleed the air out of the fuel pressure gauge into an approved gasoline container.
7.Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
8.Turn ON the ignition.


Take the following 3 readings and write them down
A) Read fuel pressure Key On /engine OFF (KOEO) should be above 50
B)Key On /engine running (KOER ) mid to upper 40's is typical running fuel pressure
C)Key on/ engine running -- disconnect vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator and then reconnect it
When you do this there should be approximately a 10 psi increase in fuel pressure until the vacuum hose is reconnected.
If pressure does not increase, you have a faulty FPR.
There should not be any gasoline in the FPR vacuum hose.

You also want to watch the fuel pressure with the Key off engine off and see if it rapidly drops or steadily drops.
It shouldn't do either.
If it does, this often causes hard starting due to there not being enough fuel/pressure in the fuel lines initially.
Causes are faulty fuel pump check valve, a leaky fuel pressure regulator or even a leaking injector.

Service manual lists normal fuel pressures as:
2001 - 2004 VIN 1 & K KOEO 53-59 psi
2001 - 2004 VIN 1 & K KOER 3-10 psi less than above

I don't think there's a write up in the Tech info section but this post has links and pics http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... mp#p429287

If you don't want to sit in the trunk, you can remove the entire back seat and work from inside the car.
Solid_speed
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by Solid_speed »

Twas the worst joke ever, sorry bout that haha. Had a bit o drink in me (got to love Sunday funday). But as for checking the fuses its the first thing I did after the wife gave me the dreaded, the car won't start call. Fuses are good, both mini and relay. I have purchased a new filter and pump and will be following the directions above this post. Thanks guys for the help!
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by Solid_speed »

Well I won't be needing the directions above after all unless the car is giving me trouble again, or appearing to run abnormally. The car won't start at all. I hear no buzz from the pump and it is receiving power after checking the inline connection.
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by MikeKerr »

Just a little note- most 2000-2005 Bonnevilles have major corrosion around the ring the holds the fuel pump to the tank. You may consider soaking the ring area in PB blaster numerous times prior to removing the ring. There is also a specialty tool to assist with the ring removal (I just use hammer and dull wide/ flat screwdriver). It the clips that hold the ring in place get damaged- it will require fuel tank replacement and that is a very major undertaking.
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by dougtoth »

When I replaced the fuel pumps on my 2000 & 2001 Bonnevilles I also replaced the retaining ring.
It is called a cam retainer.
Part number is 25691383.
Price is about $6.00.
I also put a little grease on the backside when I installed it.
I figured for a few bucks it wasn't worth putting the old rusty one back on.
The new one went on easy and locked nice and tight.
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by Solid_speed »

New problem. I can't get the fuel pump out through the access hole. It seems to have swelled, has anyone else experienced this, if so how did you get it out?
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by 96 SSEi »

wiggle it till its loose and lift and tilt it so the float clears the hole - it will come out - nothing has swelled, its abs plastic
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by agrazela »

MikeKerr wrote:Just a little note- most 2000-2005 Bonnevilles have major corrosion around the ring the holds the fuel pump to the tank. You may consider soaking the ring area in PB blaster numerous times prior to removing the ring. There is also a specialty tool to assist with the ring removal (I just use hammer and dull wide/ flat screwdriver). It the clips that hold the ring in place get damaged- it will require fuel tank replacement and that is a very major undertaking.
Ooh, ooh, please tell us more about the specialty tool.
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by garagerog »

The specialty tool is made by Kent-Moore and goes for something like $150 new. I picked one up for $75 on e-bay and sold it for $65 to a member of another forum when I was done with it, it was well worth the $10 net plus postage I ended up paying for the use of this tool. You'll need a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet in addition to use this tool, but it makes removal of the locking ring a snap with no chance of an errant spark being generated.
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by Solid_speed »

Mission successful guys. With a little effort and some good info from you guys the pump is out and replaced. Now to let this on blaster work its magic on the bolt keeping the fuel filter on.
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by 96 SSEi »

Solid_speed wrote:Mission successful guys. With a little effort and some good info from you guys the pump is out and replaced. Now to let this on blaster work its magic on the bolt keeping the fuel filter on.
:woowoo: hey, glad you were successful with your mission. put some ant- seize on the thread once you get filter off and next time should be 10 min job :banana:
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by maxi426 »

garagerog wrote:The specialty tool is made by Kent-Moore and goes for something like $150 new. I picked one up for $75 on e-bay and sold it for $65 to a member of another forum when I was done with it, it was well worth the $10 net plus postage I ended up paying for the use of this tool. You'll need a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet in addition to use this tool, but it makes removal of the locking ring a snap with no chance of an errant spark being generated.
Does anyone know the Kent Moore number for this tool?
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Re: Fuel pump

Post by garagerog »

The Kent-Moore fuel sender locking ring removal tool I used on my 2004 Bonneville has the part number of J-39765, I could find only one listing for it on e-bay this am, a new one for $129. Hope this helps.
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