2000 SSEi window problems! [FIXED]

[00V8]

I picked a 2000 SSEi up for my fiancé to drive but it turns out I like it better than my G6 so I'm taking it over!

Recently all but the drivers windows and locks quit working. It also has been saying check gas cap on the d.I.c. and service anti theft system. I'm going to pull the codes tomorrow but I doubt my laptop will show the theft system code.

At first I thought it may be the rear integration module but now I'm thinking it's the connections under the drivers seat because the sunroof leaks as well.

Is there any other item I should check that could cause these types of issues?

[MKMike]

Sunroof leaks and the windows/door locks not working are covered here http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 25362.html
Door leaks are not uncommon, either and there's coverage in the linked section of those, too.
When you know there is one leak, you'd first suspect corroded connections beneath the driver's seat as the culprit for the door lock/window issues.

Having just adjusted my sunroof to sit flush, dropped the headliner to see if the tubes were still connected there and reconnected the disconnected front sunroof drain tubes behind the 2 kickpanels, I can tell you that I discovered more leak issues:
1) The water channel on the roof, above the doors was also leaking, There are drainage tubes within these channels and the leaks were behind the tubes, where the roof is welded on.
2) 3 of the 4 drainage ports on the sunroof itself were blocked by debris buildup.
3) The rear window had a blob of sealant along the top where someone apparently (unsuccessfully) attempted to seal a leak.
4) The passenger's front door water deflector was leaking.

The point is, there may be multiple points of entry for the water.
My carpet was never wet on the surface but the only place where the underside was dry was in the driver's seat area.
The only way to know it was sopping wet on the foam underside was to remove the rear seat and door trim to pull up the carpet and check.
After removing the front passenger seat, I discovered it was wet there , too.

[desertpierat]

Having just went through this I would strongly recommend you get a bunch of sandwich bags and a sharpie to keep all of the bolts and small parts together with each component you take apart (seat bolts, console bolts, etc).

Check your gas cap. Mine said that and sure enough, the rubber seal inside the cap was cracked and dry. I picked up a cheap replacement cap at autozone but I just swapped the seal out of that onto my cap. I have heard many bad stories about the replacement caps failing after only a few weeks. Message went away after replacing the seal.

As for the anti theft: roll the windows down, then get out and lock/arm the car. Wait 30 seconds to make sure its armed then reach in and open the door from the inside. Try this on all doors, locking and arming each time. If the alarm does not go off, you may need to visit the dealer or find someone with Tech 2 to reprogram your theft deterrent module. If the alarm does work, try re-programming your master keys:

Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF, using a master Pass-Key III key (black).
Observe the security telltale (security light on the dash), after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn off.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
Repeat step 1 through step 3 two more times, for a total of 3 cycles or 30 minutes.

IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the key information and/or passwords on the ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

Start the vehicle (the vehicle has now learned the key and password information).
Clear any DTCs using the scan tool.

IMPORTANT:

Additional master theft deterrent controller keys (black) or valet keys (gray) may be added (up to 10 keys) using this procedure when there is an available learned master theft deterrent controller key (black).
This procedure adds keys only. This procedure does not erase previously learned keys.
The keys to be learned must duplicate the mechanical cut of the current key.
If more than one valet key (gray) is to be learned, each valet key must be immediately preceded by a learned master theft deterrent controller key (black).

With a previously learned master theft deterrent controller key (black), turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition and remove the key.
Within 10 seconds , insert the key to be learned (either black or gray) and turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. The vehicle has now learned the new key(s).

I would use a battery tender while doing this, and roll down the driver's side window first so you don't have to sit in the car for 30 minutes. You cannot open any doors or attempt to start the car while doing this procedure.

My car had a small pond in the floor, and my splice pack had already been "fixed" once but nobody bothered to fix the leaks. I have decided my car will not be driven in the rain until I can replace all of the door weatherstrips and seal up all of the potential entry points.

[00V8]

Sunroof leaks and the windows/door locks not working are covered here http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 25362.html
Door leaks are not uncommon, either and there's coverage in the linked section of those, too.
When you know there is one leak, you'd first suspect corroded connections beneath the driver's seat as the culprit for the door lock/window issues.

Having just adjusted my sunroof to sit flush, dropped the headliner to see if the tubes were still connected there and reconnected the disconnected front sunroof drain tubes behind the 2 kickpanels, I can tell you that I discovered more leak issues:
1) The water channel on the roof, above the doors was also leaking, There are drainage tubes within these channels and the leaks were behind the tubes, where the roof is welded on.
2) 3 of the 4 drainage ports on the sunroof itself were blocked by debris buildup.
3) The rear window had a blob of sealant along the top where someone apparently (unsuccessfully) attempted to seal a leak.
4) The passenger's front door water deflector was leaking.

The point is, there may be multiple points of entry for the water.
My carpet was never wet on the surface but the only place where the underside was dry was in the driver's seat area.
The only way to know it was sopping wet on the foam underside was to remove the rear seat and door trim to pull up the carpet and check.
After removing the front passenger seat, I discovered it was wet there , too.

Thanks for the reply, I saw that and there is a ton of great information there. Unfortunately my problem with the windows and door locks must not be the same. I found the splice, it was not corroded but I decided to replace it anyway, still no locks or windows.

Of course my problem would have to be different!

Is there a single fuse covering this somewhere that might have blown when the connection got wet?

[00V8]

I was talking more about the issue with her. Everything worked when we bought the car, shortly after there would be times the windows were hard to get up, then it started saying door ajar when you would hit a bump in the road occasionally. Then finally right before the windows quit, the back windows would roll themselves down about 2 inches with absolutely no driver input.


EDIT::::

The passenger power mirror appears to be affected as well, it did work but now does not.

[MikeKerr]

You more than likely have corrosion under the driver's seat where the wires that control the passenger windows are spliced together. The corrosion likely happened from water getting under the carpet and sitting.

[00V8]

You more than likely have corrosion under the driver's seat where the wires that control the passenger windows are spliced together. The corrosion likely happened from water getting under the carpet and sitting.

As I posted above, I already checked that and unfortunately for me that wasn't the problem.

[00V8]

Upon following another members advice I tore into the harness with vengeance. I found where the data line guess under the console the wire had a break in it!

Now on to the oil pressure sender, the headliner, valve cover gaskets, and a good cleaning!

I'll stick some pictures up in a new thread as it progresses!

[MKMike]

Excellent.
Thanks for posting the cure for the troubles!

The easiest of issues on your list to resolve is the oil pressure switch.
I bought a Lisle 13250 oil pressure switch socket to make the task easier.

I would guess that you've already perused this thread http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 25362.html
If you haven't, it is a worthy read.
LIM gaskets are an eventual necessity, for example.
It may interest you to know that taking the supercharger off will make replacing the rear valve cover gasket, as well as the spark plugs much easier tasks.
The supercharger also comes off to replace the LIM gaskets.

You may be fortunate and find that the LIM gaskets have already been replaced in your car.
You would know for certain they are replacements if the LIM gaskets are silver metal---as the originals are all black plastic.
The ends of the gaskets are visible between the heads and the lower intake.