sunroof power locks and interior lights all quit....help

[1oldman]

Yup no codes and disconeccted battery and checked connections all good with 3 month old battery... car operates normally other than above problems... auto headlights and dash lights all work HUD also still works

Just a note, the middle daughter purchased a "new" battery that had not been properly rotated while in stock. As a result the battery was defective when installed. It took 6 months for it to fail bad enough to start causing problems. It took a load test to prove the battery was defective. Upon removal, it was obvious from the DOM the battery had not been rotated while in stock. - BC

[beeman212]

I appreciate the help and info...
I finally found a gm specific service manual for my 2000 Bonneville ssei and nothing else and it is a 2 vol set and I found em for $25 used.... I've been finding them but they where $200+ but for less than I paid for my garbage Haynes book and should actually have info and diagrams specific to my car...
So it should be here in a week so hopefully I can keep the rain outta my car till then... I found a 1/8th in sheet of plastic to put over sunroof in case it rains... plus its my only car and I only get one day off a week so I'm sure I'll be back with some answers and questions after I get my service manual...

[beeman212]

so to put this out there I bought the car in feb for $2800 with air bag light on, stereo said locked, back windows didn't work and radiator had a small leak and the rear shocks where toast and car had the high speed wobble on the way home from purchase but no wobble on test drive? also fog lights don't work but bulbs switch and everything else good but wont power up.
came home found missing wheel weight on front wheel so I purchased a set of saleen wheels that I know are good and balanced and have had on 3 different cars...
so first problem was radiator needed replaced so I replaced that plus upper and lower hose and new 180 deg thermostat and flushed the engine and heate rcore... also changed trans fluid and filter and put 2 qrts of lucas trans fluid in with the change... then I did the back shocks conversion...
then I went to diagnosing the miss at idle to find out I had bad head gasket with low compression on 4 an 6 but didn't use antifreeze and oil looked good.. so I parked it for a week and ordered head gasket set and took it all apart and found the spot between cylinders where it failed... spent a week cleaning everything, pulled throttle body and cleaned it and all sensors then I put it all back together thanks to this site and the 100+ pics I took along the way...car still has a miss and ses light has come on every so often and says cylinder 4 misfire.. ive replaced the plugs wires coils an icm with no change...
car runs great and uses no fluids.. I just took car on 1500 mile road trip and other than a bad strut making the high speed wobble the car did great 27-29 avg mpg with a/c on running 70 to 85 mph and then after I got home a week later pwr locks,sunroof,interior lights, map lights, vanity lights, reverse lights, cig lighter, aux pwr on back of console,pwr trunk release in glove box or by key fob dosent work all of a sudden... checked all fuses and relays and are all good but not working .. so yesterday I pulled the fuses for both lighters and switched them from switched power to all time power which is apparently and option on this car ...... and im just stumped... I got behind the wheel of this car for test drive and within a few miles down the highway I fell in love with my bonnie.. but here I am 6 months later and I started out with 116,000 miles on her and 6 months later I have 118,000 due to car sitting more than anything... I fixed back windows with info from here on the wires under the driver seat... I re replaced the splice that someone else did with a butt connector and I used shrink tubing and soldered it all up so nice tight an dry... I also noticed a factory splicer in the same harness under seat and it was getting pretty bad so I cut it a spliced it back together thinking I would prob have to come back and fix it if I didn't do it then.... I have pictures of all of this stuff in every step and everything I did I researched on here and gm forum for info, directions, and any other kind of info I could get ahold of.....
sorry for the long post but I wanted to get the whole story out there.... that being said I now have a total of around 6200 in this car minus a $1000 in stereo equipment that bought and installed with directions from here and looking at installs on you tube....
I spent 5.5 hours putting the dvd player in this car which in a normal car takes me about 20 mins to an hour due to 15+ years of installing mobile and home electronics... so 5.5 hours is me bing very carefull and making sure not to cut,nick,scratch or break anything in process and haven't had a problem out of it... I also got a diagram for the factory bose amp and used it to replace it with a nice 500 watt kicker amp and used the factory pwr wire as a remote wire to turn on that and my sub amp.. but main pwer to amps is run off a 0 gauge wire from under back seat to a 5 farad capacitor to a junction block and then split off to both amps which is how I always install amps in cars so that the capacitor can take the brunt of the load and even with 3000 watts rms of power in the car it dosent even dim the headlights even with the stock alt.... but that's my story and again sorry for so much info but there it is... feel free to post questions or comments ... and have a great day

[beeman212]

Anyone know how to power up sunroof so I can shut it till next week when my book gets here to troubleshoot with diagrams but till then I have to keep covering the roof in case of rain every other day......

[beeman212]

So I got my gm service and repair manuals and after going thru everything in the book that I could do without a tech 2 scan tool.
I've come to the conclusion that my rear integration module has failed due to massive vibrations from 2000 watt kicker 15in subwoofer that's pointing right at the back of the backseat and the port for the box is around a foot right behind the module...
So apparently there are "crystals" that are inside it that are fragile and are most likely shattered or broken but haven't found how to test before opening it up and or where to find the parts to fix it or a cheap known good used one...

[ddalder]

Crystals are used in the generation of a clock signal, basically to synchronize the functions of some digital electronic circuits (and other uses in radio equipment). They are enclosed in a small metal can. I suspect that if they are damaged, the module would likely stop working in it's entirety so I'm not sure that I would come to that conclusion. I can't recall if I saw a crystal in the RIM or not. Unfortunately I can't find a photo. However, that doesn't necessarily mean that you don't need a RIM.

If you're listening to your music that loud, I'd be more concerned about how soon you need to start visiting an audiologist.

[ddalder]

I found a picture of the RIM. There is a crystal (circled in red), but I'm still not convinced that it is the problem.

[beeman212]

Yea I don't think its the problem after I took it apart and tested everything and couldn't find any faults..
I'm totally lost on this problem. I even bought a set of gm shop manuals and I know where and what every wire does in the car but all the book tells me to do is hook a tech 2 scan tool up and run tests and I can't afford that tool and I can't afford to take it to a shop at $80-$100 an hour..
I'm sure I can fix this problem if I can locate what is causing this problem...
I've been driving car and other than a light miss at idle and almost stops missing after running for 5 to 10 min but other that car runs and drives great ... good mpg but all that electrical stuff still doesn't work ..
And after going thru so many different things and ideas I'm stumped and I still gotta figure out why the air bag light has beenon since i bought the car in February.. car hasn't been wrecked and air bags are still intact and unused... so I need to fix a few diffent things... I love and hate this car but I just wanna fix it and enjoy it ...
Anything anyone can think for me to try I'm up for anything and appreciate any help I've gotten or any help you may lend... I just dunno what to do anymore....

[ddalder]

Hmmm. I'll have to give this some thought. Problem is, without a Tech2 you're certainly at a disadvantage. As for the air bag, my friend's son bought a 2002 SE that had a light on when he bought it. When I scanned it there was no communication with the SDM. After I traced the class 2 serial data bus wiring and confirmed there was ground and battery voltage at the module, we had to order a new SDM. That did fix the problem, but a new one isn't cheap. The light could also be a lot of other things, too. Without the scan tool though it's hard to know for sure. You may want to consider paying a dealer to scan it an provide you all the current and history codes so you at leas have some idea what the car is complaining about.

[ddalder]

Unfortunately this year I won't be making my annual trip to PA since our dollar sucks so bad, otherwise I'd offer to give you a hand.

[beeman212]

Thanks ... yea I guess I'm gonna have to let the dealer touch my car as much as its against all I believe in... it appears to be my only choice...
Cars just so fun to drive and comfortable but just feel like I should just pull the interior and start over...
Funny thing this all started with driver rear power lock stopped working like 2 weeks before all this happened... wonder if I should start there... and thks for the offer... at this point I'd be up for a road trip.... car runs great... needs a driver strut mount or just new struts... top of driver strut spring sits crooked and some strips of rubber where hanging out... rides fine but has a high-speed wobble that comes and goes

[beeman212]

I dunno if u have Facebook but if you do I'm kevin beeman u can send a request... I have detailed pictures of everything I've done to the car... I have over 200+ pics

[beeman212]

So today I pulled seats,console and carpets and checked all my grounds again and checked my rear power lock splice point in the harness under driver seat and everything is good and dry.
Couldn't find any faults anywhere in any wiring or grounds in wiring under carpet .
Everything looks good. Put everything back together and it didn't help or fix anything..
I have the gm service books with all the wiring diagrams and where the wires are located but I dunno where to test and find the issue...
I don't have the money to take it anywhere and I'm confident that with the right direction or advise on what wires or parts I can testthat i can fix this myself....
Please help me....

[beeman212]

So I received my tech 2 scan tool today and so far can't communicate with the RIM . Any ideas on where I should start once I read the instructions on this tool

[ddalder]

Are you able to communicate with the other modules okay?

[beeman212]

Yea I can cycle other items that aren't part of the rim but I didn't really get time yesterday to really get into it.... no light up keys on scan tool....
But its bright and rainy out today so I'm gonna go out there with my gm service manuals and see what I can figure out...
I'll let ya know what I figure out and we can go from there...
Again thanks for all the help and support I don't think I could have made it this far without this website and the awesome members that are part of it....

[Oldman]

You can pull down the headliner in the middle at the back windshield to access the motor. Push a flat screwdriver into the hole where the end of the motor shaft is and it will release the gears and allow you to manually close the sunroof. For figuring out the door locks, I would remove the door panels and with the key in the on position check for voltage and ground at each door module. If you have no power, it may be the driver's door module. If you have no ground, you may have a splice that needs attention or some other grounding issue. If you have both power and ground at the door module, then check the power lock solenoid to see if you can hook voltage up to it and make it work. Very unlikely that the solenoids have all gone out though. Here's the wiring information for checking voltage and ground at the door modules other than the drivers door module which controls all the others.
There are two connectors on that door module. One has 12 cavities and the other has 4. Each connector has a ground and battery positive wire, although the 4 cavity connector has heavy gauge wire since it's for the window motor supply.

On the 12 cavity connector, battery positive voltage must be present on terminal 'M' (wire colour is orange).
On the 4 cavity connector, battery positive voltage must be present on terminal 'A' (wire colour is orange).

On the 12 cavity connector, ground must be present on terminal 'H' (wire colour is black with a white stripe).
On the 4 cavity connector, ground must be present on terminal 'D' (wire colour is black).

In this particular case, the only orange wires are battery positive voltage and therefore easy to identify. There are a total of 3 wires on the LRDM that are black with a white stripe. Terminal 'H' is very important because this is the ground for the circuitry logic. Without it, the module will not function. You need to know that GM does not have a cavity labeled 'I' on this connector because it would be easy to confuse with '1'.

[beeman212]

so I ended up getting the power locks to cycle with scan tool except the driver rear one just makes a noise...
I got these codes so far..U1255 B3467 B1001 b1009 B2734 so far if that helps anyone cause I,m still pretty lost and learning slowly

[Oldman]

From searching these codes, the 1001 code is something to do with restraints. I see where this code may be present if PCM has been replaced. 3467 code shows a problem with the driver's door module. That could explain the door lock problem. 1009 seems to be a theft system code. We all get this message from time to time. 2734 seems to also be a theft system code. The U code is a communication problem between two or more modules. This is also a code you will get if the PCM has been replaced either with a new one and not scanned (flashed) or with a donor from another car and not scanned (flashed). The 3467 code may answer many of your problems. I have no idea that the sunroof and/or truck release go through the driver's door module, but I had to replace mine once because one at a time over a period of about 6 months all of the power windows and power door locks stopped working or started working by themselves. At the time, I also replaced the printed circuit board for the power window and door lock buttons. I had my car parked in an airport parking lot for a few days with the drivers window cracked a couple of inches. We had some strange weather here in Savannah and got a little snow. The snow came in my car and collected on the driver's door controls and as it melted it settled all in and around the buttons. Once I started driving it, things inside started shorting out. It was strange to be driving on the highway and my windows would start opening up all by themselves. I'd try to borrow a driver's door module and the panel with the buttons and plug them in and see how many problems go away. May take care of the other "communication errors" to scan and correct the apparent mis-matched components that you appear to have. You know - introduce them to each other and tell them to play nice together! Good luck and let us know your progress.

[beeman212]

what for cars and years can I get that door module from
is the door module where the ticking noise comes from when u leave your key in ignition or leave lights on ect..
before everything quit qorking I used to hear this ticking noise from either driver side of dash or driver door and when everything quit working I noticed that it wouldn't tick anymore and I belive whatever makes that ticking noise is the problem..
my car is currently out of inspection and I need to get my reverse lights working and my air bag light off which says configuration issue.... and my fog lights so I can get inspected and get to ohio so I can fix my Saturn that I gave my mom but I need all the help I can get I cant even go to work for fear of a ticket or worse....
thx for the ideas...... anything u think I should try I,ll try it ..... if I gotta stand on my head to get this to work I will try lol.