front end head scratcher -RESOLVED

[Oldman]

On my '01 SSEi, i have a terrible shaking in the steering wheel when I hit 60 MPH. If i take my foot off the gas, it gets worse until I get to about 50 MPH. If I turn slightly to the left it gets worse but if I turn slightly to the right, it almost goes away. I've moved tires all around and it doesn't seem to be a tire. Also, when I have this shaking of the steering wheel, it seem like I can feel it in the gas pedal also. Not in the seat, or in the floor, but it seems like the gas pedal is shuddering also.
I've looked around an all the basic front end stuff, but can't see anything obviously wrong.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,

[Hans]

On my '01 SSEi, i have a terrible shaking in the steering wheel when I hit 60 MPH. If i take my foot off the gas, it gets worse until I get to about 50 MPH. If I turn slightly to the left it gets worse but if I turn slightly to the right, it almost goes away. I've moved tires all around and it doesn't seem to be a tire. Also, when I have this shaking of the steering wheel, it seem like I can feel it in the gas pedal also. Not in the seat, or in the floor, but it seems like the gas pedal is shuddering also.
I've looked around an all the basic front end stuff, but can't see anything obviously wrong.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,

Should not be to hard to figure out. If your tires are not balanced right it will cause some problems, I'd suggest a different tire shop to do a balance test on the tires. It might be time for an alignment check. Aside from that, I'd say it is time to pull out a floor jack, if you dont have a floor jack, there should be a jack in the trunk. Raise the left front tire, check for looseness. It should be solid, no movement. Do the same for the other front tire. If the front suspension seems tight I suppose you could check the back. The vibration you are describing really sounds like poorly balanced tires. Other possible things are the transmission/torque converter having issues, however I'd rule out all tire/suspension issues first.

[Oldman]

Thanks, Again, I've moved tires around without any change, and yes I have checked for "wobble" at each corner while up on a jack.

[MKMike]

If you have checked the wheel bearings, control arm bushings, balljoints and inner and outer tie rods--then you may have a bad CV joint.
It is also possible that the subframe, subframe bushings or mounts may be failing.
Outside of these the only things left are motor mounts and transmission issues.

[MrPOPE]

i had a very similar problem..and the control arms bushings were bad... problem with that.. your cant get just the bushings from what i have seen.. its cheaper and easier to get both replaced... fixed mines... my mechanics says those bushing wear out and will cause that.

[redzmonte]

LMAO! they make a full Who knows What the hell is wrong Package for $315. Inner and outer Tie rods, Sway bar links and L/R Control Arms with Ball joints.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... 445&jpid=1

MOOG KIT40 Click Info for full list of components. Info
Front; w/Variable Assist; Heavy Duty Design Link
Part ImageNext Image
$313.79

Components that come in this kit Quantity
MOOG K8989 {#25679063, 25702353, 25715934} [Stabilizer Bar Link] Problem Solver Info
2
MOOG EV195 {#26003751, 26003759, 26012282, 26021769} [Tie Rod End] Problem Solver Info
Inner; Includes A Full ball Stud To Provide 360 Degrees Of Smooth Rotational Movement; Variable Steering
2
MOOG ES3452 {#26045051, 26053831, 26067285, 26086578, 89047749} [Tie Rod End] Problem Solver Info
Outer; Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces Next Image
2
MOOG CK620291 {#25766511} [Control Arm] Problem Solver; Complete Arm w/Ball Joint Info
Front Left Lower; Aluminum Arm Next Image
1
MOOG CK620292 {#25766510} [Control Arm] Problem Solver; Complete Arm w/Ball Joint Info
Front Right Lower; Aluminum Arm

[Oldman]

Thanks for all the help guys. Don't think the "all in one" package is in the budget.

Irony:
driving a car that's 15 years old because you can afford a new one.
As the car starts needing repairs, you don't want to spend the money on repairs because it's such and old car.
Yet you can't afford a new car now, because you're spending so much money repairing the old car.

How many others here find themselves in this same situation?

[Oldman]

I'll check control arm bushings. That seems to make the most sense to me. Any ideas on an easy way to check?

[MrPOPE]

replaced both control arms...fix my problem with that....when those rubber bushings when they rot ..its shake city at highway speeds

[MrPOPE]

Thanks for all the help guys. Don't think the "all in one" package is in the budget.

Irony:
driving a car that's 15 years old because you can afford a new one.
As the car starts needing repairs, you don't want to spend the money on repairs because it's such and old car.
Yet you can't afford a new car now, because you're spending so much money repairing the old car.

How many others here find themselves in this same situation?

thats when u throw your hands up...trade it in ..and pay that car note for a new car.... u spending a car note month anyway on repairs and upkeep

[Oldman]

I saw a coupon for Goodyear for a "Free Front Alignment Inspection". The description said that they would put it on the front end machine and let me know what adjustments needed to be made. The coupon also said they would check tires, brakes and suspension. Since I'm having this "shimmy" at highway speeds, I figured I would use this coupon. Well they were busy, but I told them I would just wait for them to do the inspection. After about 30 minutes, they drove my car into the bay. I stepped out of the waiting room several times to take phone calls.(I'm a Realtor) and I saw my car up on the rack each time I went outside. I then saw them lowering the car and figured they would now put it on the alignment machine. Within a couple of minutes, the guy walked in and called my name. He went over all of his paperwork with me and told me I needed tires, brakes, hoses, belts and a master cylinder. Total price $2,865.80!! And they never put it on the front end machine! Their brake job includes ceramic pads, rotors, calipers and brake hoses. I told the guy that I had explained to the counter guy that the only thing I was looking for was a cause of the "shimmy" at 60 MPH. I asked him how the front end alignment looked and he said: "Well the guy didn't write down anything about that so I guess it's fine." I went outside several times and noticed that he was "the guy" that looked at my car! I started to make an ass of myself, but figured - you get what you pay for - and told him thanks and left.
I do need tires. I rotated them and noticed that all of them seem to have separations. Considering a set of Falken Ziex ZE950's. I see where others have had good things to say about Falken tires, but haven't seen any comments on that particular tire. It's an all-season tire. Any opinions?

[MrPOPE]

Yeah I avoid any CHAIN repair place like the plague. The Free thingie was just to get u in the door to charge u some ridicolous price. but i can see how you went that route.

[Oldman]

My son drives a monster Ford Ranger pick up. Those big tires take a lot of weight to balance. In rotating the tires again, I found 9 OZ. of stick on wheel weights stuck to the inside of one of my rims! When I found this, he told me that he had to get a wheel balanced because all of the weights had fallen off somewhere. Don't know how it happened, but I had a wheel with an additional 9 OZ of lead!!