Tips for engine replacement

Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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burger
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Tips for engine replacement

Post by burger »

I have a bad rod bearing and need a new engine. Thinking about trying it in my driveway. What tips or pointers does anybody have, are there any write ups (I looked and couldn't find much) or books that would have good information. I do not have air tools but am thinking about buying an electric impact gun as im thinking i wont be able to loosen everything by hand. What are your thoughts?
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Re: Tips for engine replacement

Post by J Wikoff »

I did it without air tools.

Don't forget about the "backwards bolt" on the rear that mounts the engine to the trans. It's kind of accessible from the driver side and a blind reach, but going in with a few long extensions from the passenger wheel well is easier for the most part.

Now's a good time to get all new motor/trans mounts, and maybe subframe mounts too.

I left the AC lines all hooked up and just unbolted the compressor from the engine and held it out of the way to avoid having to open the freon system.

IIRC, I took the exhaust manifolds off before taking the engine out, and put them back on after dropping it back in to allow a little more wiggle room. I don't think it's necessary though.
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Re: Tips for engine replacement

Post by 1oldman »

J Wikoff wrote: I left the AC lines all hooked up and just unbolted the compressor from the engine and held it out of the way to avoid having to open the freon system.

IIRC, I took the exhaust manifolds off before taking the engine out, and put them back on after dropping it back in to allow a little more wiggle room. I don't think it's necessary though.
I've never done it, but all I have read from the manuals, that is the way they say to do it and the Power Steering Pump too. - BC
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Re: Tips for engine replacement

Post by 95naSTA »

I've done it in the street a couple times w/out air tools.

Don't forget the flexplate to torque converter bolts. You'll have to spin the engine to access all 3 bolts from the bottom.
If your plastic firewall cover isn't cracked, I would remove the rear exhaust manifold before you pull the engine. If the rear exhaust manifold even looks at it, it'll crack. The other plus to this is you can reach the female dog bolt from the driver's side, as mentioned.

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Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.
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Re: Tips for engine replacement

Post by burger »

Thanks guys. Iv started removing stuff today. Ill see how far I can get and will probably have a few questions as I run into problems
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Re: Tips for engine replacement

Post by burger »

I almost have the engine out, i cant seem to get it around the mount on the passenger side. Do i need to remove the mount from the body? I can't see how to get the bracket that attaches to the engine off, i removed all the nuts that attached to it. Do i just need to pry more?
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Re: Tips for engine replacement

Post by 95naSTA »

Yes- remove the body side of the passenger side engine mount.
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95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.
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