Replacing Rear Sway Bar Links

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FiendScurro
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Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:40 pm
Year and Trim: 2000 SLE
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Replacing Rear Sway Bar Links

Post by FiendScurro »

I actually remembered to take photos this time so i thought i would contribute a little write up on rear sway bar end link replacements.
I was able to do this in my driveway and i have only a few extra tools then a normal car owner.

Materials I used:
Jack
Two jack stands
Various sockets (depends on if your current end links are original or not and the new ones you buy)
3/4 drive
Pipe wrench (monkey wrench)
may want pb blaster (i didn't need)

To start off, jack up and support the back of the car with jacks. I placed mine on the subframe 1 foot in from the sides. Take the wheels off. (For those without air tools, make sure to loosen the lugs while wheels are still on ground or it might be hard since the wheels spin freely.)
Start with which ever side you want, i took pictures from both sides but both sides are really the same deal.

Here is the drivers side all ready to go. (After i cleaned and greased my brake slides)
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Here is where the End Links connect to the control arm.
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Here is where the End Links connect to the sway bar.
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My end links are original so the barrel "nut" was pretty rusted to the bolt. This is where PB blaster might come in handy. I used a pipe wrench since the bottom "nut" is hexagonal shaped and as thin as a washer, the pipe wrench worked great.
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First i put the socket on top and wedged it against where the air ride hose mounts to the body.
(Pic is kinda bad sorry)
Top (passenger side)
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From under (Passenger side)
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Then time for my secret weapon the pipe wrench
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Lots of turning later...
(Drivers side)
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That was the hard part.
Now just install the replacement parts, I used Moog Problem solution Poly. from advance auto. Sorry I didn't take more photos I was racing the clock that was two very heavy rain storms. (I will update this when i am back under there for the Lateral arms)

When installing the new End Links you will need to jack up the control arms so you have room to put everything on the bolt ( it gets cramped) Then just let it down when you want to connect the sway bar. Tighten it down pretty good. Don't squish bushings as thin as washers...

I made sure just to hook both sides up before tightening down. Put tires back on, drop her down, test drive. Celebrate a quieter ride and no more jumping around when hitting a pot hole on one side. OoOoOo and your able to take turns slightly faster ;-)

Let me know if I missed anything. I believe the Original bolt head was 11mm. The new ones required two different sizes (14mm and 5/8 i believe).
Dan
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KM AXer
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Year and Trim: 1993 SSE Medium Garnet Red Metallic, Gray
Location: Rochester Hills, MI

Re: Replacing Rear Sway Bar Links

Post by KM AXer »

Nicely done.

And to think that some people take their cars to places which swap out shocks and all kinds of other parts, when simple end links will cure the jumping around felt after a non-symmetrical jolt. Or, when a car is making a knocking or bumping sound underneath....

2 problems with a single fix. Good one.
Alan Sheidler

Proud Third Caretaker of the Family Heirloom '93 SSE
Medium Garnet Red Metallic, Gray Leather Interior
Silver Cross-Lace Wheels (I love this car)
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nos4blood70
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Re: Replacing Rear Sway Bar Links

Post by nos4blood70 »

Nice write up! I think this is in my future, since I have a weird noise coming from the back right corner and both the shock and mount are fairly new.
-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 250k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 101k miles
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FiendScurro
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Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:40 pm
Year and Trim: 2000 SLE
Location: Rochester, NY

Re: Replacing Rear Sway Bar Links

Post by FiendScurro »

Yah I was surprised that mine had original links. Half of the bushings were still good though. I made sure to save them for boat roller install.
Dan
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