The Parts:
1 - 8" long 1/2" bolt
2 - 1/2" washers
1 - 1/2" lock nut
1 - 4" boat roller
1 - old swaybar endlink bushing
The Cost:
The bolt, nut and washers should cost you around $1-2 at a hardware store. The boat roller should be $4-5 at Fleet or Marine store. They are available online, but I haven't found any at that price point. If you don't have a used swaybar bushing, its a good time to install new swaybar endlinks on your car and use the old one for the mount. Brand news are around $5-7 per corner.
The Installation:
Remove the 18mm nut on the bottom of the old mount. Remove the 18mm nut on the top of the old mount. Jack up the vehicle slightly using of the engine oil pan. You just want to take pressure off the mount. Remove the 3 - 15mm nuts holding the bracket to the transmission. Remove the bracket and pull out the old mount. Inspect the old mount, its probably badly torn. Insert the bolt/washer/bushing assembly through the bottom of the subframe and up the hole. You will either need a 2nd person to hold the bolt, or put something like a jackstand under it to hold the bolt in place. Slide the boat roller on the bolt, and put the bracket back in place. Install the 3 - 15mm bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission. Put a washer on the bolt on top of the bracket. Top it off with the lock nut. Use a 2nd person or your extremely long arms to hold the bolt head on the bottom while you tighten the lock nut on the top. Tighten it enough that it starts to squeeze on the boat roller. Lower the jack and you are done.
*edit 3/25/21* I've made a single change that will make these last even longer. Add a washer between the swaybar bushing and the subframe. The bottom of the subframe is not flat and will eventually tear into the bushing.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. The boat roller doesn't need to be squished, just snug. After install rock the car back and forth in park to see if there is any movement. Snug up until there is no play. Tighter is not always better.
