rotors

[spoiledred94]

Who has moderate quality/price slotted (not drilled)Rotors? Mine may need just to be turned again, but if they're too far gone what I want is slotted to cope with the down pours we have here.

[1tinindian]

The more you turn a rotor, the less metal there is left to dissipate the heat, therefore making them easier to warp again. Just plan on new rotors.

Leon

[MrT]

When you start to look on line, you will see a lot of rotors.
I recently replaced my OE rotors with Centric rotors, not slotted or drilled. They make slotted rotors.
The rotors I got have black plated hats, they provide good brake feel and perform better than the OE rotors. I also installed Centric ceramic pads.

I think I paid a total of around $220.00 for the front and rear rotors and front and rear pads. The slotted rotors were a little bit more.
Centric is not the cheapest or the most expensive, they seem to be middle of the road in price. Very good quality for the money. I would stay away from the lowest priced stuff unless you can talk with someone that used a particular inexpensive brand on the Bonneville or similar sized car.

Good luck,

Steven

[redzmonte]

centric/stoptech:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.j ... toModClar=

Or rock auto... Drilled and slotted for $37ea. IO have these and I have no problem with them at all and im kinda hard on my brakes. and you get 5% off with our club code for rock auto.

Rotors and pads all 4 corners: $243
POWER STOP Part # K1543 {#BK952856} Performance Brake Upgrade Kit; Incl. 11.92 in. Front & 11.06 in. Rear Silver Zinc Plated Cross-Drilled And Slotted Rotors w/Z16 Ceramic Scorched Pads; Incl. Hardware
Front and Rear; SLE Model; SSEi Model

Just rotors: $37 ea
POWER STOP Part # AR8255XPR Power Stop Extreme Performance Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Front; SLE Model; SSEi Model
Part Image
+ Sold in packs of 2; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack



S

[spoiledred94]

When you start to look on line, you will see a lot of rotors.
I recently replaced my OE rotors with Centric rotors, not slotted or drilled. They make slotted rotors.
The rotors I got have black plated hats, they provide good brake feel and perform better than the OE rotors. I also installed Centric ceramic pads.

I think I paid a total of around $220.00 for the front and rear rotors and front and rear pads. The slotted rotors were a little bit more.
Centric is not the cheapest or the most expensive, they seem to be middle of the road in price. Very good quality for the money. I would stay away from the lowest priced stuff unless you can talk with someone that used a particular inexpensive brand on the Bonneville or similar sized car.

Good luck,

Steven

That looks goood. I did see centric's out there when I searched around. should I as course rebuild the calipers? Kinda hesitant to do it with the pads and rotors because Id have to bleed them and they are real tight and snug now.

centric/stoptech:
tirerack.com/brakes/brakes

Or rock auto... Drilled and slotted for $37ea. IO have these and I have no problem with them at all and im kinda hard on my brakes. and you get 5% off with our club code for rock auto.

Rotors and pads all 4 corners: $243
POWER STOP Part # K1543 {#BK952856} Performance Brake Upgrade Kit; Incl. 11.92 in. Front & 11.06 in. Rear Silver Zinc Plated Cross-Drilled And Slotted Rotors w/Z16 Ceramic Scorched Pads; Incl. Hardware
Front and Rear; SLE Model; SSEi Model

Just rotors: $37 ea
POWER STOP Part # AR8255XPR Power Stop Extreme Performance Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Front; SLE Model; SSEi Model
Part Image
+ Sold in packs of 2; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack



S

Hey, I did see PowerStop out there too. I'm glad you mentioned them. Do I have choices for s/d rotors that will not warp in a couple years with my moderate braking habits?

[xcbullet]

If the calipers are good just bleed all them till you have all fresh fluid coming out.

[SuperHbody]

I say go for the AC Delco Professionals, it's good stuff. Anything else that claims "performance" is snake oil.

[spoiledred94]

If the calipers are good just bleed all them till you have all fresh fluid coming out.

I would like to get a gallon of brake fluid and bleed through all four lines until it is fresh and clean throughout. I'm fairly bad at bleeding brakes. over the dozen or so times I mostly ended up with spongy brakes and a fading pedal. Any hose I hook to the bleeder always seems to interfere with opening and closing of the bleeder or it comes off and I end up with fresh air in there again.

Id like to look at the AC Delco Rotors. I would expect the to be of high quality. But 1, they are likely to be very expensive and 2, I need slotted rotors to address my poor braking when wet. This car is especially bad in the rain.

[1oldman]

If the calipers are good just bleed all them till you have all fresh fluid coming out.

I would like to get a gallon of brake fluid and bleed through all four lines until it is fresh and clean throughout. I'm fairly bad at bleeding brakes. over the dozen or so times I mostly ended up with spongy brakes and a fading pedal. Any hose I hook to the bleeder always seems to interfere with opening and closing of the bleeder or it comes off and I end up with fresh air in there again.

The fastest and easiest way for me, alone with no one else is:
4 Clear vinyl tubing about 24"-30" long each
plenty of the desired brake fluid.
4 glass pint/quart jars/glasses
duck tape
siphon pump

remove the wheels

1. siphon out all the brake fluid from the master cylinder and sit the fill cap on the master cylinder loosely
2. loosen all four bleed screws (put something under each bleed screw to catch the brake fluid until the tubing is in place)
3. place a 30" vinyl tube over each of the 4 bleed screws
4. use the duck tape to secure the loose end of the vinyl tubing in each of the glass jars
5. place about 1 1/2" of brake fluid in each glass jar making sure the end of the tube is below the surface of the fluid in the jars
6. fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and sit the fill cap on the master cylinder loosely
7. Pump the brake peddle until all 4 tubes have clear brake fluid in them making sure that the master brake cylinder reservoir does not run out of fluid. Monitor the glass jars to make sure they do not over fill.
8. tighten the bleed screws
9. fill the master brake cylinder to the proper level and secure the fill cap
10. clean up the mess

- BC

EDIT: Since I'm not an automotive engine or certified mechanic, I should also post:
Disclaimer: Performing repairs on automobiles can result in damage to property, personal injury, or death. The author is not responsible for any losses incurred as a result of the use of this information. Persons using this information do so at their own risk. - BC

[bobgto65]

I use Power Slot rotors and the hold up well and don't warp. I think they also make the Power Stop ones as well.

[pittydaddy]

I will say. Advanced auto and autozone both have a vacuum pump for rent. It should come with a complete hose set and a offset container for bleeding brakes. Just do one caliper at a time till you get clear fluid. Fluid choice dot 4. Mag 1 now as for slotted rotors. Rock auto has a good set as mentioned earlier in this thread. We use the aforementioned bleed method at my work. Works every time. Just take your time. Do it right. Do it once. Also make sure you follow the correct bleed sequence. Failure to do so could result in air in your lines and or in your abs block. Good luck

[spoiledred94]

Thanx BC. I am going to follow your method sweet and simple 3 hr bleed. I am going to rebuild the calipers after all. Great. 1 question though; do I need to start at the most distant wheel when I close the bleeder?

pittydaddy, I appreciate the input. Are power slot and power stop from the same co.?

[pittydaddy]

All the info I can find on alldata says to start with the passenger rear then driver rear. Then passenger front the driver front. The reason I said something about proper order is because of buick and hyundia. Both have bassackwards bleed procedures. Hyundia starting at the passenger front the to the driver rear. Buick (2009 and up) starting at the driver front.

[pittydaddy]

Also I have found that if you can find rotors that have been cast with holes or slots they will last longer. Anything that is after cast drilled or milled WILL crack at the mill spot simply due to metal stress. Slotted rotors will wear pads faster than smooth. In my honest opinion. Go with a good set of reybestos pads and rotors. But if slotted is what you want its your car. Not my place to put your choice down. Just not what I would personally do

[pittydaddy]

And one finally thing. Lol. No. I dint think powerstop and powerslot are the same company. There. Done. Lol

[1oldman]

All the info I can find on alldata says to start with the passenger rear then driver rear. Then passenger front the driver front. The reason I said something about proper order is because of buick and hyundia. Both have bassackwards bleed procedures. Hyundia starting at the passenger front the to the driver rear. Buick (2009 and up) starting at the driver front.

I can't give the answer the experts want. I bleed either 2 at a time, or 4 at a time. If I do 2 at a time, I start at the rear (both at the same time) and end with the front (both at the same time). I'll say this, when I get through bleeding my brakes with "my method", they are firmer than when anyone else has bled them. - BC

EDIT: If your mechanically inclined (and never done it before), you should be finished in an hour or less. BTW, clean up the calipers around the bleed fittings and the bleed fittings. You don't want any dirt in the system. When you're finished, tighten the bleed fittings before you remove the vinyl tuning and don't let the other end of the vinyl tubing come out of the brake fluid in the glass containers until the bleed fittings are closed.

Since I'm not an automotive engineer or certified mechanic, I should also post:
Disclaimer: Performing repairs on automobiles can result in damage to property, personal injury, or death. The author is not responsible for any losses incurred as a result of the use of this information. Persons using this information do so at their own risk. - BC

[pittydaddy]

Has it really gotten that bad that we have to put a disclaimer on our posts

[xcbullet]

With abs I have found that gravity bleeding at the end works good. 1oldman way does sound good though.

[spoiledred94]

A disclaimer maybe over the top, but I am glad he is careful to say how dangerous a running car on 4 jack stands could be.

I am going to use the BC method but keep the car on the ground.

[1oldman]

A disclaimer maybe over the top, but I am glad he is careful to say how dangerous a running car on 4 jack stands could be.

Considering I forgot to also post, not to get under the car while jacked up and to place the car on jack stands and chock the wheels on the ground and god knows what else, it's not a bad idea. - BC