97 SSEi Won't Run After Start

[EluZioN]

Hello All,

I have a 97 SSEi with 296k on it. The car has had no issues or CEL in the past 6 months or so. I left work and 5 minutes into the trip home the car basically lost power at 55mph. I had no throttle response at all but if I gave it 1/2 or more throttle it would putter along. I got it to a parking lot and the car will start 100% of the time, but if I give it gas, or leave it to idle more than 2-3 seconds it dies.

The car does have fuel in it and as mentioned previously it had no CEL (still doesnt even now). Car does have a coolant leak (coolant on deck). I fixed the elbows from the belt tensioner 6 months or so ago, but now I have another leak somewhere.

Anyway, i'm looking for suggestions as the car is at work in parking lot and i'd like to avoid having it towed home if at all possible. There is no engine light, no code, and car starts 100% of the time just turning the key. A few people have suggested a fuel filter (mines never been changed in 230,000 miles). Although I have had no sluggish performance, etc, to this day. Where is the fuel filter located?

If anybody has any ideas why the car dies when trying to accelerate please let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
EluZioN

[J Wikoff]

That sounds like a fuel pressure issue. Test it at idle and with the vacuum line pulled of the regulator.

[Bob Dillon]

Agree with the above, but when's the last time you changed the fuel filter?

[EluZioN]

I removed the vacuum line from the regulator and get no change, still starts perfectly, then dies in 2-5 seconds. I also tried disconnecting the MAF sensor, no change there either. I can hear both speeds of the fuel pump (louder when key is ON position, quieter when it is in run and dies). To answer Bob's question, I have never changed the fuel filter, although I am not sure it would start perfectly every time if the filter was the issue.

After reading I was guessing the resistor relay was bad, but I can hear the pump running as mentioned above, and I'm fairly sure if a resistor goes bad it will be open, and the pump wouldn't run.

The car is 35 miles from my home in a parking lot. I don't have the luxury of working on it much there. Is there any simple way to jump the fuel pump in high speed (assuming that's what happened at key on) to see if it will stay running? I read there may be a jumper behind the battery? I can get to the fuel pump resistor relay on the passenger side wheel well in the trunk, can I jump it somehow to run in high speed?

Thanks,
EluZioN

[J Wikoff]

If 97 still had the pump jumper, it's the green connector hanging out above the battery on the inner lip of the fender. I don't know if it's advisable to run it long term or not. But you could at least jumper it to see if it will stay running. Just run a wire from the jumper to the battery + post.

I'd be tempted to get another MAF and put it on (just three little screws) and see if that fixes it.

And sorry for suggesting that you test the fuel pressure while it's idling. Not really easy since it won't run for more than a few seconds...

[Bob Dillon]

I removed the vacuum line from the regulator and get no change, still starts perfectly, then dies in 2-5 seconds. I also tried disconnecting the MAF sensor, no change there either. I can hear both speeds of the fuel pump (louder when key is ON position, quieter when it is in run and dies). To answer Bob's question, I have never changed the fuel filter, although I am not sure it would start perfectly every time if the filter was the issue.
Thanks,
EluZioN

I suspect the reason you're getting the initial start followed by dying is that the pump runs at a higher pressure until vacuum builds up (a matter of seconds). This may be enough to force fuel through a clogged filter, followed by complete starvation after the pressure drops from the "start" cycle to normal pressure..

Rather than fooling around with the wiring, pump, jumping it, etc., I think you can save valuable time and parts money here by just replacing the filter. It takes 10 minutes tops, costs about $15, and I'll bet it solves your problem.

It's really the very first place you should look.

[onytay06]

I had this problem with my 95. Use starting fluid to start it if you can keep it RU Ming off that I would drop my tank And change pump and filter.

[SSEBonne4evr]

Fuel filter or pump filter sock could be plugged.
In addition to changing the filter, run a can of seafoam in the tank.

[EluZioN]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. I checked for fuel at the rail with a gauge and although the pressure was low (due to cheap HF gauge) it was not running out of fuel. I did change the fuel filter as suggested above and the issue remains the same. I have a cheap code reader and although there is no engine light on, I have stored/active code P0336, which I have had 5-10 times in the past (symptom is car would abruptly turn off at 50-60 mph for less then a second and then refire).

Code says crankshaft position sensor. I am hoping it's dirty and not bad (the car has leaking valve cover gaskets and until recently a cracked coolant elbow from idler assembly to intake manifold) so the area behind the pulley where the sensor resides is caked with an oily sludge. Not sure how to clean it or what to try, but certainly worth a shot in comparison to trying to get that pully off. I did tow it home so there is no urgency at least.

I'll post back if cleaning did any good or if replacement fixed the problem. Anybody have a decent guide how to replace the sensor? I know it's fairly cheap for the part.

Regards,
EluZioN

[Bob Dillon]

Code says crankshaft position sensor. I am hoping it's dirty and not bad (the car has leaking valve cover gaskets and until recently a cracked coolant elbow from idler assembly to intake manifold) so the area behind the pulley where the sensor resides is caked with an oily sludge. Not sure how to clean it or what to try, but certainly worth a shot in comparison to trying to get that pully off. I did tow it home so there is no urgency at least.

I'll post back if cleaning did any good or if replacement fixed the problem. Anybody have a decent guide how to replace the sensor? I know it's fairly cheap for the part.

Regards,
EluZioN

I had this problem with a crudded up CPS. It was, however, a complete no-start. I squirted behind the balancer with a strong garden hose stream of water, unplugged the sensor and filled up the socket with dielectric grease, plugged it back in and let it dry. Car subsequently started right up and ran fine many thousands of miles more until I sold it.

[Kajidono]

They also sell engine degreaser that you spray on, drive it to the car wash while the heat from the engine makes it work (it turns into foam), and blast off the dissolved remains with the high pressure spray.

[EluZioN]

*Resolved*

The crankshaft code wasn't the issue (although I did replace it as I had a few codes for it previously). The cheap gauge I was using showed around 10lbs with key on and crank. I discounted that as the gauge was an el-cheapo, but later on I put it on my truck and the gauge DOES work. Turns out the pump was just weak. I dropped the tank (thanks to this forum and google) and replaced the pump, all is well.

Thanks All,
EluZioN