A/C compressor seized?

[Q-Ship]

I have noticed an intermittent burning-plastic smell from my '01 SSEi lately. Today I checked and saw there was smoke coming from near the A/C compressor. The car didn't have the A/C (which quit working last summer anyway) on and it wasn't in a defrost mode. There has only been a very rare squeaking sound lately that has also not been dependent on the A/C compressor being engaged. This afternoon after I saw that I drove it and it was down on power and shuddering, similar to when I had an injector go bad. I know the next step is to take the belt loose and try to spin it by hand but the weather is not agreeable to that today. It's so windy the hood keeps getting blown down! I did search first but didn't come across anything just like the symptoms my car is having. I originally thought I still had a small piece of plastic bucket I ran over a couple of weeks ago lodged in there causing the smell but, of course, it can't be something that simple. When I turned the A/C on with it running just now (can runs fine again, too, with no work on my part--it only cooled down for an hour or so) and there was a brief bit of squeaking which soon stopped.

If I do need a new compressor, what else will need to be replaced, assuming I want to get the A/C working again anyway? I'd like to do most of the R&R myself and then have a shop vacuum the system and charge it. The A/C wasn't keeping it's charge (when I checked it out last summer) but I haven't added the dye to check where the leak is yet.

Alternatively, if I want to wait on fixing the A/C system and put the compressor replacement idler pulley and bracket on what do I do with the rest of the lines, cap them somehow? How badly will the defrost function be affected?

[nos4blood70]

Defrost function on a steamy day will be useless until the car warms up, and even then, it'll be slow. On a day where it's below 40 degrees it won't matter, cause the AC only runs when it's 40 or above.

[Q-Ship]

Update: I got the compressor off yesterday and it was getting hot--the electrical connector was partially melted. I put a bypass pulley on it and the burning smell is gone. Unfortunately, it's still running rough. Got a P0301 code--misfire cylinder 1. I guessing it's a bad injector because it's acting the same as when it had the injector on #3 go bad a year ago. The Bonnie is definitely demanding attention--according to the computer, it wants an O2 sensor (bank 1, which means I'll be replacing both upstream sensors), EGR valve, and there's a leak/problem in the EVAP system. The EVAP code probably explains the vacuum leak I can't find.

[nos4blood70]

Misfire could also be ignition related.

[Q-Ship]

I know, but the plugs, wires, and coil packs aren't even a year old. I'll check the plug anyway, though.

[00Beast]

There is only 1 upstream sensor.

What brand/type of plugs, wires, coils? Age is less important than brand/quality. The cheap coils are cheap for a reason...

[Q-Ship]

There is only 1 upstream sensor.

What brand/type of plugs, wires, coils? Age is less important than brand/quality. The cheap coils are cheap for a reason...

I guess I'll have to look more closely. I assumed there would be one per bank, then one post-cat O2 sensor.

Coils and wires are Accel, plugs are Champion Iridium.

[Q-Ship]

Took a quick look and listen tonight. The injector is clicking like it should. The spark plug looked fine, too. Guess once I have a little more time I'll move parts around and see what will make the misfire follow.

[00Beast]

Coils are 90% likely culprit. Accel coils are junk. Did you replace them because they were bad, or for the 'performance boost' and the look? If the former, throw the stockers back in and forget about them.

[Q-Ship]

Coils are 90% likely culprit. Accel coils are junk. Did you replace them because they were bad, or for the 'performance boost' and the look? If the former, throw the stockers back in and forget about them.

I replaced the coils because I had one bad one and the remaining 2 were at the test limit of acceptable. I was also trying to figure out a misfire problem then, too, so I eventually replaced the other two. I did a thorough car forum search about the reliability of different brands of coils as well, and there was little negative to say about the Accel brand I could find. After 20 years of working on cars I don't take over-the-top claims as truth. I know to avoid certain parts store cheapies after years of working on my wife's '99 3.8 Firebird.

I plan on moving the ignition parts around to see if the code follows.

[00Beast]

Most Accel stuff is fine. The 3800 engine is very weird, and very picky. I'd get a set of new OEM coils from a junkyard or harofreak00. Just make sure you get coils from an S/C car, and that they have the blue plastic on the bottom.

[Q-Ship]

Just got done troubleshooting. Swapped plugs--still P0301, then wires--still P0301, then the #1/4 coil--misfire and code gone. Looks like I'll be contacting Summit about a warranty since it's only 6 months old. I put on the best of the 2 old coils I had. We'll see how it does on my 250-mile round trip today.