Intemittent keyfob 2010 Malibu

[flatlander745]

Hey guys this is off topic but I will give it a shot. My inlaws have a 2010 Malibu that has keyless entry with remote start and both fobs are intermittently working. Would that be a module problem (like ours in the trunk)? Not sure how much diff with being different make, year and remote start.

Thanks!

[00Beast]

How are the batteries? Might be the first place to check...

[flatlander745]

Yeah, I was thinking of putting it in the original post.....batteries are new in both. So I guess that leaves the car then.

[Archon]

You might want to try to resynchronize them. Don't know if it works on the 2010, but with ours, hold the lock and unlock buttons down while close to the vehicle, until the locks lock, then unlock. Worth a shot.

[flatlander745]

Resync unsuccessful with sequence per year make and model : key in ignition, hold unlock button and turn ignition on/off/on/off then it should lock/unlock to verify program mode. It did not specify fob or main unlock button on door to use for this? I used door button, didn't have time to try with fob. Any thoughts there? I noticed that trunk button on both fobs works every time without lag so would worn lock button pads on both fobs be plausible?

Thanks

[imidazol97]

Hey guys this is off topic but I will give it a shot. My inlaws have a 2010 Malibu that has keyless entry with remote start and both fobs are intermittently working. Would that be a module problem (like ours in the trunk)? Not sure how much diff with being different make, year and remote start. Thanks!

#1. Yours aren't as old as I would expect, but it could be the contact on the rubber insert that shorts the grid on the circuit board to make that circuit send a signal to the car. I have had to replace mine in various cars. It's cheap enough to try replacing them if the battery switch doesn't do anything.

#2. Also, you might check the battery solder joints where the "wings" that hold the battery are soldered into the circuit board. I had one where that solder joint was loose, so the FOB was losing power depending on how the solder felt like making contact that day. I think you can find some pictures of the bad solder joint in the FOBs if you search on the internet.

It's an easy switch when you have the case open to replace the rubber contact layer. I even held my remote and used a paper clip end to touch the contact grids on the circuit board to verify mine would work great with a metal contact. Then I ordered the replacements.

The contact area loses it's conductivity sort of like TV remotes do for me. It seems the "5" button goes first with age on my remotes and even telephones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REMOTE-KEY- ... 60&vxp=mtr

Good luck.

[human]

When re-soldering the contacts, use a low-wattage (15-watt) soldering iron. It'll take a little longer to heat up, but it reduces the risk of frying the circuit board, compared with using a more powerful one. I've also had some luck cleaning the contacts on the keypad with alcohol on a cotton swab.

Hey guys this is off topic but I will give it a shot. My inlaws have a 2010 Malibu that has keyless entry with remote start and both fobs are intermittently working. Would that be a module problem (like ours in the trunk)? Not sure how much diff with being different make, year and remote start. Thanks!

#1. Yours aren't as old as I would expect, but it could be the contact on the rubber insert that shorts the grid on the circuit board to make that circuit send a signal to the car. I have had to replace mine in various cars. It's cheap enough to try replacing them if the battery switch doesn't do anything.

#2. Also, you might check the battery solder joints where the "wings" that hold the battery are soldered into the circuit board. I had one where that solder joint was loose, so the FOB was losing power depending on how the solder felt like making contact that day. I think you can find some pictures of the bad solder joint in the FOBs if you search on the internet.

It's an easy switch when you have the case open to replace the rubber contact layer. I even held my remote and used a paper clip end to touch the contact grids on the circuit board to verify mine would work great with a metal contact. Then I ordered the replacements.

The contact area loses it's conductivity sort of like TV remotes do for me. It seems the "5" button goes first with age on my remotes and even telephones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REMOTE-KEY- ... 60&vxp=mtr

Good luck.