2000 SSEi won't run -code P0101

[rmorton]

Wife was driving the car yesterday and it was running fine - nothing abnormal until it failed to start after a 30 minute stop. It sputters, tries to start but won't. After it cooled off, I got it to run for about 3 seconds by pumping the pedal, but I can't keep it any running any longer than that.

I hear a hissing noise on the fuel rail on top, but I can't keep it running long enough to check for a vacuum leak. It is throwing P0101 maf . I tried starting without the maf plugged in and no difference. Visual inspection of my vac lines doesn't show anything wrong. There are a couple of taped places and I've retaped those.

I have fuel at the rail and I smell fuel strongly as I keep cranking in attempts to start. Any ideas on how to get it to run long enough to spray carb cleaner on the vac lines? This was very sudden. Just failed to start after a normal drive.

Throttle body was removed and thoroughly cleaned (including maf) about 3 months ago.

[myfirstbonnie]

If you smell gas, check under the car along the drivers side and across the engine and make sure there is not a leak. Next, pull the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and see if it has gas in it or smells like gas.

If it is flooded, you can hold the accelerator to the floor while trying to start and it will disable the fuel injectors and help clear the gas from the cylinders. You can also pull a couple spark plugs and see if they are wet with gas.

[rmorton]

No leaks. There did not seem to be any smell of gas at the regulator. I am still suspicious of the regulator tho. The car acts like it will start for about 3 seconds and then sputters and dies like it doesn't have fuel. It will do that over and over. There is always fuel at the rail. The P0101 is gone and now the P0102 code is being thrown.

[Trinity]

Unplug the MAF and see what that does, I do not think this is your issue. I am leaning toward a massive vacuum leak, especially with you hearing a "hiss." Have someone else start it and you find out what is making the noise,

Possible IAC or CPS too if no vacuum leaks.

[rmorton]

Unplugging the maf has no effect. Still tries to start, run rough for 3 seconds and chokes and dies.

I think the hiss is just the sound of the fuel rail charging when the key is turned. That may be nothing. Although i hear it again for a split second after it dies.

It seems unlikely that a massive vac leak would suddenly occur with no warning and cause failure to start. But that is kind of how it acts. No matter what I do I can't get it to run long enough to spray it down.

Wouldn't the cps cause no spark at all?

[myfirstbonnie]

The car acts like it will start for about 3 seconds and then sputters and dies like it doesn't have fuel. It will do that over and over. There is always fuel at the rail.

Check the spark plugs, remove a couple and see if they are wet or smell like gas. Next, get a #194 lamp and bend the wires so they stick straight out. Unplug a fuel injector and stick the bulb leads into the connector. Have someone try to start the car and see if the bulb flashes. This will tell you if you are getting injector pulses.

3 things needed to run, air, fuel and spark. Your MAF codes are caused because the PCM is trying to use the MAF to regulate the fuel/air mixture. When you initially try to start it, the injectors are pulsed to "prime" each cylinder. Then the PCM looks at the MAF and other sensors.

It sounds like the car is flooded from trying to be started and has had the injector "prime" pulse several times. If you hold the accelerator to the floor while trying to start, it disables the "prime" pulse and will allow the car to clear a flooded situation.

You will also want to check for spark at each spark plug. There are several ways to do this, some are more painful than others. PAIN = pull each wire off the coils one at a time while someone tries to start it. LESS PAIN = unplug the wire from each spark plug and stick a spark plug into the wire and lay it down somewhere so it is making contact with bare metal on the end and then have someone try to start it while watching for a spark on the end of the plug. You could also buy a spark plug tester.

[Trinity]

Unplugging the maf has no effect. Still tries to start, run rough for 3 seconds and chokes and dies.

I think the hiss is just the sound of the fuel rail charging when the key is turned. That may be nothing. Although i hear it again for a split second after it dies.

It seems unlikely that a massive vac leak would suddenly occur with no warning and cause failure to start. But that is kind of how it acts. No matter what I do I can't get it to run long enough to spray it down.

Wouldn't the cps cause no spark at all?

Usually yes, but I have seen it start and die or run fine for a bit and die as well. Sometimes when they begin to fail they will set no codes and act very strange.

Is the security light on?

What is the pressure on the rail?

[rmorton]

Was in town last night where the car sits awaiting CPR. Attempted start and got same results. Then checked for fuel/smell at the regulator. Seems fine. I smell the faintest hint of gas, but it may be coming from elsewhere. Definitely not strong or obvious.

Pulled two plugs - dry and normal. Then one of the plug wires came apart (1 month old Napa premium) and pretty much ended my testing. Will get replacement set from napa today and replace all of them.

I also got the 194 bulb and stuck it in the fuel injector. It glowed slightly when the car was turned over. I couldn't test it very long due to the missing wire. The exposed point at the coil was arching like crazy so I was afraid to keep testing it until I got a wire back on. When I try that again today, am I looking for a bright flash? Is it 12 volts at the injector?

When you say pain to test spark at the coil packs, do you mean pain from the arching? I would think that gloves would make that doable and easier than pulling each wire. I have to pull the wires later today anyway tho.

No security light.

Thanks for the help. I'm pretty much on my own to fix it this week.

[rmorton]

Ok I've tested each new wire as I put them on by grounding the plug to the block. All spark and are good. Only pulled two plugs on the front. Both looked ok. One was very slightly damp - not what I would call wet.

After reinstalling the test plug, the car turned over and ran normally for about 15-20 seconds. i really thought it was solved. I turned it off and finished clearing tools and arranging plug wires. Jumped in for a test run. Started again and ran fine for about 6 seconds and then shuddered and died. All attempts to restart have the same original symptoms.

Fuel pressure is 45 psi engine off key on. Pressure while it rough idles is 42-46psi until it dies, then it settles at 45.

So fuel seems fine, spark is good at all wires (now new wires), no codes. The bulb flashed when plugged in the injector. ive tried to use the clear method of pedal to the floor several times already. Interestingly, that method wont even start for 3 seconds. No difference with MAF unplugged. No difference with iac unplugged. No difference with map unplugged.

The fact that it ran normally for a moment has me stumped. Wouldn't you think a vac leak would be consistent?

[Jfridge92]

I know you've tried unplugging the MAF, but do you have access to a known good used one, or someone close to you that could let you borrow one off of their car? When the MAF on my Lesabre went out, it didn't matter if I had it plugged in or unplugged, it just wouldn't stay running at all. It would start and instantly die, then just crank and crank until it would sputter and die.

[Trinity]

If the injectors are firing and the fuel is okay then:

You are not getting spark..

ICM bad
CPS bad
PCM bad
Short ground or otherwise
Security system Malf
IAC bad... not likely
Wires rules out
Plugs unlikely

That's all I can think of off hand, but the from what you said, you are having a spark issue.

[rmorton]

Swapped the maf sensor out with a known good one and....presto! So for once (for me) the maf code actually meant the maf was bad. Took the advice from everyone here and did not get an aftermarket. Ran to the junkyard and got a used oem one for $20. A little more reasonable than the $343 that the dealer wanted.

Car is back to running as it should. Thanks for all the help guys! Sure is satisfying to stick with it and solve the problem.

[Trinity]

Glad to hear it buddy...