1968 Bonneville: What do you know about POR-15?

[94SilverSSEi]

So our poor 68 is just sitting rotting away. It needs more work (MONEY) that have to give it right now. It was quite clean with very minimal surface rust when we got 2 1/2 years ago. Maybe some tiny holes on the edge of the rear quarters.

BUT after my dad driving it last winter in the salt and it just sitting, there are holes big enough to stick your fingers through in the quarters and the rust is spreading like wildfire (crazy what a year will do to a car).


So I am wondering if POR-15 is a possible solution (well, at least hold off any more damage until we have the money to fix it right).


The thing I am wondering, doesn't POR-15 dry very hard? Would it be easily sandblasted (media-blasted or whatever) later on if we wanted to....say...restore the car or do some body work on it. Or could it simply be sanded off.


Any other ideas on how to keep this thing from rotting away.

Sidestory: When laying on the ground one day working on '97, I noticed the factory holes on the frame of the '68 and stuck my fingers in there and it feels like the whole frame is filled with some type of sand/soot/dirt or something?

Any ideas on this? How it got there and how to get it out? Maybe just put the car up on jackstands and use a hose to wash it out?

[SSEiMan01]

I can say from experience, por15 does not come off... it will arrest the rust, but be careful what out gets on.

[01bonneSC]

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html

[NohawkRob77]

Hello Ive worked at a body shop for the 12 years and have worked with POR15 alot there and on my own stuff and can speak from experience its ok stuff. You have to either sandblast the metal for it to stick or wash all the dirt and lose/ flakey rust off then wire brush the begebis out of the metal and you can either spray it if you thin it out really well or just brush it on. You want to wear a resporator and long sleaves with rubber gloves on to apply it as the fumes skip the contact high and go straigh to killing brain cells and burning your throat pritty good in none vented areas. If you brush it on I know from experience or you put two coats on or over lap stuff that starts getting tacky after it drys and you scrap it you can actually peal it off in layers and it get quite frustrating. So when it starts getting tacky dont over lap it.
So in my opion its not that great of a product just because of it being fussy. Ive worked with the product many times as I mentioned before and have sprayed about 30 Mack truck frames at the big truck autobody shop I work at and it doesnt hold up to UV rays at all even when you put there special topcoat on and some of the trucks have made there way back to the shops 2 or 3 years later and look like crap comparied to frames I just loaded up with epoxy after sandblasting and then sprayed paint over top of. And the pealing problem I have on a 54 Plymouth I have that ive hotroded and my parts runner truck and fell like it was a waste of time to use there product and have that happen. We tryed working with the company about the problem and doing what they sugested and eventually just droped the product unless people request it. So in my option its ok just but very over priced and sometimes disappointing in my option.

[01bonneSC]

Holy old thread

[94SilverSSEi]

I know this is an old thread, but thanks for the advice on the POR-15.

The car has pretty much been sitting for the last year, drove it a few times.

Am thinking of trying some of the Eastwood stuff on the car and possibly truck bed liner for inside the trunk.