Changed valve cover gasket, now no spark.

[dreadpiratesteve]

We did just that, Mike, and were able to start the car. Car runs fine, haven't tried taking it for a drive yet though. For now, we've jerry rigged a push button to force-engage the starter while we determine the problem. The PCM is not sending a signal to engage the starter, and we don't know why. The ignition switch might be at fault, but it could be several things honestly. There's definitely some iffy wiring behind the dashboard, lots of wires from a former stereo system hurriedly spliced into other wires, wouldn't be surprised if something got grounded out unintentionally.

[dreadpiratesteve]

I drove the car around for a bit. It ran great, until I put it in park. The dash gauges started bouncing around, including the tachometer, and it wasn't just the readings, I could hear the engine sputter and complain as its RPMs dipped way below normal. I left the car and went into the house to grab something, and when I came back, I heard the car locking and unlocking itself at random. What's going on?

[fritcr]

Ha ha our Montana minivan did that one time when I washed off the engine. OPPS...It locked and unlocked for about 10 min on the way to work. Then it stopped and never did it again. I guess I got something wet. I know if I get that fuse box wet under the hood or even if it is rainig a lot or really damp the side power door will not work. Stupid electronics!
Rob

[dreadpiratesteve]

Well, wet just makes me think of the oil leak I've got. Front is fixed, still leaks in the rear though. Could it be the oil got on something?

EDIT: Also, is it safe to drive for now? I wanted to take it on a long drive today.

[fritcr]

I don't know if you should drive it or not. I guess it would not hurt anything.
Did you do the jumper test on the relay or did you just put a hot wire right to the starter?

[redzmonte]

check your battery terminals.... make sure they are not lose. also check the grounds to make sure they are clean and secure... if the door locks are cycling then i would start there, for some reason i remember the door cycle on my other cars when loosening the battery cable.. its under the seat so its something easy to check... it would also explain the starter not opperating.

S

[Archon]

It is possible that the ignition switch could be causing your no start condition. This is a TSB regarding it.

File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

Bulletin No.: 00-08-49-015

Date: November, 2000
Subject:
Intermittent No Start/No Crank
(Replace Ignition & Start Switch Assembly)

Models:
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

2000-2001 Pontiac Bonneville
Condition
Some customers may comment that the ignition and start switch assembly in the above listed vehicles may not operate properly resulting in an intermittent no start/no crank condition.

Cause
This condition may be due to plastic particles interfering with the electrical contacts of the ignition switch assembly.

Correction
An improved ignition switch assembly, P/N 25721650, is now available from GMSPO.

[bobtaz13]

Have you double checked your grounds by the Ignition Control Module? IF you left that off that could cause all sorts of issues.

[dreadpiratesteve]

bob, where are the grounds you speak of?

fritcr, we jumpered the relay. Starts right up.

redzmonte, we have had problems with the terminals before, but as far as I know the offending cables were replaced.

Archon, we have been looking at that switch, seems like it could be causing the no start, but odd that I also have these electrical issues. Speaking of those, I noticed while on a long trip today that the gear indicator on the instrument panel flickers on and off. Seems to get worse over bumps so a loose ground/cable could be my problem.

[bobtaz13]

The grounds are right under the coil pack mount, on the fround mounting bolt that goes sideways into the head. I would take a pic, but mine is all apart right now.

[Mechanical Mike]

There's a yellow wire that goes from the ignition switch to the PCM. You can check the ignition switch by seeing if that wire has twelve volts when the key is turned to start. Disconnect the C2 connector from the PCM & the yellow wire should be at terminal 23. Did you get the wiring diagram?

I second the motion on checking the connections at the battery & where the negative cable connects to the floor. I'd suggest removing the cables & clean everything up with sandpaper or a wire brush. Give everything a coat of dielectric grease before reconnecting.

[steelmanwy]

Give everything a coat of dielectric grease before reconnecting.

Don't coat contact surfaces with dielectric grease. Dielectric grease is silicone based, and non conductive, like the insulation on your plug wires. It does not enhance the mechanical contact or conductivity of the connection.

[Archon]

The recommendation for dielectric grease has nothing to do with improving conductivity or connectivity. It is for corrosion resistance. It has been used by many for several years without negatively affecting conductivity, and even GM recommends its use in several procedures.

[steelmanwy]

Oh I wasn't suggesting that nobody should use dielectric grease, just that it needs to be used properly. Coating the contacts in insulating silicone grease before making the connections is not the way to go. Use the grease after the connection is made.