SERIES 1

NOT_aerosmith · Post by **NOT_aerosmith** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:29 am

I read willwren's article about modding the series 1. I understand that heavily modding a series 1 is a bad idea and will lead to the destruction of my transmission.

MY CURRENT MODS:

Intense fenderwell intake
Magnaflow catalytic converter
180 degree thermostat
F-body valve covers
Walbro 255 fuel pump

MAINTENANCE I HAVE DONE:
New Denso O2 sensor
TR55 spark plugs
Belden wires
New 2.7 bar FPR
Replaced supercharger nosedrive oil with Intense supercharger oil
Replaced transmission filter, gasket, and flushed the ATF
Removed front and rear exhaust manifolds, removed heat shields, welded all SMALL and LARGE cracks, reinstalled heat shields, and installed exhaust manifold gaskets.

My car has 123,000 miles it runs good and the transmission works great.

My question is whether or not I will be able to get away with putting a 2.55 pulley on (I got it for 5 bucks at a junkyard, it came off of a 92 Park Avenue Ultra) I know this is risky, this is the final mod I want to do to my motor , I have a scanner to scan KR........Will my transmission be able to take this?

01bonneSC · Post by **01bonneSC** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:35 am

Not for long IMO

freneticburn · Post by **freneticburn** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 5:08 am

If you plan on keeping the car I'd just roll the dice and start saving up for a replacement trans. Even without the smaller pulley any abuse on an old trans is risky. Unless this particular vehicle is your only means of transportation I'd drive it as hard as you want to. Sure you could have a transmission last you 150k+ miles but how much fun is that?

. There's a saying that if you aren't breaking stuff on a modified car then you don't have enough mods

. You pay to play.

Priorities first though. If you have no backup vehicle I'd modify with extreme caution.

spoiledred94 · Post by **spoiledred94** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 5:51 am

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but aren't all the series 1 motors NA? Or are there Versions other than the L27? Just wondering.

Other mods may include 1.8 roller rockers or an LSD

My series 1 (L27) has the rockers and CAI. My trans is converted to a 3.06 FDR and was completely rebuilt. You can get some of the parts for the 4T60E-HD trans that are beefed up. Like a hardened reverse reaction drum and a hardened 4th gear hub and shaft. I have been lucky on my mod path. All of my major breakdowns came at a workable time and I was able to find other cars to drive in the meantime. Hope you figure it out. Sounds like you got a great car.

Kris

freneticburn · Post by **freneticburn** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:52 am

there's a series 1 L67. One of the main dudes of this forum has a pretty badass one. With the way prices can be on series 2 L67 it's more practical to go series 2 and then mod though.

Post by **myfirstbonnie** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:24 am

spoiledred94 wrote:Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but aren't all the series 1 motors NA? Or are there Versions other than the L27? Just wondering.

Techinfo: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =39&t=1628

Post by **J Wikoff** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:28 am

IMO, since you've taken care of a bunch of the upkeep, and if your trans behaves like it should... go for the smaller pulley.

Any power mod will speed up death to any transmission, to some degree. That's just the nature of fatigue. Then there's parts that aren't affected by power levels that can give up regardless.

Post by **harofreak00** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:05 am

I had a 2.55" pulley on my 95 SSEi very shortly after I started modding. I didn't do nearly as much premods or checking that I should have, and it was fine. In fact, I sold the car with the pulley on it, and years later, its still ripping it up with the original drivetrain.

willwren · Post by **willwren** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:21 am

Another Techinfo article:

This is a MUST DO. Do not pulley down until you have taken care of the exhaust manifolds. I guarantee you have this problem, and it's a real motor killer:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =44&t=1660

Exhaust manifold cracks cannot be diagnosed with smoke or steam. They have to be removed from the car, and I'd bet I've told you this before. Careful inspection with water in them (tricky technique) will find the cracks. The heat shield on the crossover can hide cracks there. The heat shields from all 3 pieces have to be removed for inspection and repair, then riveted back (no screws) when you're done. I've probably given this very sound advice over 200 times on this Forum since 2002. All Series 1 Manifolds crack, and 95% on this Forum probably are. Most are minor enough the owner doesn't care or need to know, but if you plan to mod, you better! If they're PROPERLY repaired, they will never crack again. The cracking is from initial stress, and once 'broken in' or 'stress relieved', they can be welded and stay that way. You better know the PROPER TECHNIQUE before welding though, or you'll only make it worse.

Some examples of cracks, and keep in mind, I found MORE that were not visible by using the water technique:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/willwren/em2.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/willwren/em3.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/willwren/em4.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/willwren/em5.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/willwren/em6.jpg

The links above represent about 25% of the cracks found after heat shield removal. 50% of the total cracks were not visible to the naked eye on the first visual inspection.

Your exhaust leaks smacks of a severely cracked crossover pipe to me:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b251/ ... C03935.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b251/ ... C03936.jpg

Both of these were hidden by the heat shield.

Hey Spoilered94:
What the heck do you think is in my signature and profile? My 93 and 94 are BOTH Series 1 L67's. The 95 is a Gen3, the 93 is a Hybrid. With all your L67 talk (and ours back to you instead of beating your head on a brick wall), what did you think we were talking with you about for the last year?

95naSTA · Post by **95naSTA** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 12:29 pm

NOT_aerosmith wrote:MAINTENANCE I HAVE DONE:
New Denso O2 sensor
TR55 spark plugs
Belden wires
New 2.7 bar FPR
Replaced supercharger nosedrive oil with Intense supercharger oil
Replaced transmission filter, gasket, and flushed the ATF
Removed front and rear exhaust manifolds, removed heat shields, welded all SMALL and LARGE cracks, reinstalled heat shields, and installed exhaust manifold gaskets.

1oldman · Post by **1oldman** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 2:27 pm

willwren wrote: Hey Spoilered94:
What the heck do you think is in my signature and profile? My 93 and 94 are BOTH Series 1 L67's. The 95 is a Gen3, the 93 is a Hybrid. With all your L67 talk (and ours back to you instead of beating your head on a brick wall), what did you think we were talking with you about for the last year?

Bill, an exercise in futility trying to help someone? lol - BC

spoiledred94 · Post by **spoiledred94** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:15 pm

1oldman wrote:Bill, an exercise in futility trying to help someone? lol - BC

You're kinda a slow huh?

Naww just kidding, but would you get off my back?

Will, I hadn't done any looking into it. I thought that all series 1's were L27's and were NA. I knew L67 Series 1 were SC. I haven't paid much attention to Series 11's. Basically what I know now(from MyFirstBonnie) is there is only one L27 Vin Land it is NA (mine). And there are three L67's all Vin 1 SC. Two Series 1's and 1 Series 2

I don't remember a lot of talk about the L67 lately. Years ago I was looking into transplanting in the L67 and I remember a lot of ideas then about it then. I was doing my trans for the last year and focused on that. Frankly I did look into the different models way back, but I honestly couldn't find a thread that covered it. Uhh yeah I think your signature would have been a good place to look.

01bonneSC · Post by **01bonneSC** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:18 pm

Ok lets keep this on topic for the OP.

willwren · Post by **willwren** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:03 pm

Wow. That's all I got on the off-topic. Wow.

Bottom line to the OP, if you don't have a budget for trans repair/replacement, don't pulley down. It will shorten the life of your trans, especially with a bunch of miles on it already. It's your car and your budget, but the mod isn't 'free' like most people refer to it. It WILL cost you. More and sooner than if you didn't.

BonneMe · Post by **BonneMe** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:19 am

willwren wrote: Bottom line to the OP, if you don't have a budget for trans repair/replacement, don't pulley down.

Could be said for any 3800 really, especially over 100k.

Transmission life TOTALLY depends on how you drive it as well.

NOT_aerosmith · Post by **NOT_aerosmith** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:50 am

willwren wrote:Wow. That's all I got on the off-topic. Wow.

Bottom line to the OP, if you don't have a budget for trans repair/replacement, don't pulley down. It will shorten the life of your trans, especially with a bunch of miles on it already. It's your car and your budget, but the mod isn't 'free' like most people refer to it. It WILL cost you. More and sooner than if you didn't.

OP would be a good display name....can I change mine?

I will probably just run the 2.55 during winter and the 2.85 during summer.

Willwren, something not mentioned in your series 1 techinfo article is the modding stage(s) you were at when your transmission(s) failed......where were you at in the modding process when they failed?

00Beast · Post by **00Beast** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:54 am

Um, flip that. First off, colder air is already denser, meaning you get more efficiency out of your boost, and secondly you don't want a ton of HP in the winter unless you live somewhere where it doesn't matter (FL, TX, NM, AZ).

NOT_aerosmith · Post by **NOT_aerosmith** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:59 am

00Beast wrote:Um, flip that. First off, colder air is already denser, meaning you get more efficiency out of your boost, and secondly you don't want a ton of HP in the winter unless you live somewhere where it doesn't matter (FL, TX, NM, AZ).

True, but I was thinking about it in forms of knock......obviously going to be more chances of knock in the summer with the 2.55 than the 2.85 right?

00Beast · Post by **00Beast** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:03 am

While your thinking there is correct, the whole point of this is to make usable horsepower. No dragstrips are open in the winter, and it's snowy and icy in the winter. You cannot utilize excess horsepower in the winter, it just digs a bigger hole in the snow...

NOT_aerosmith · Post by **NOT_aerosmith** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:19 am

00Beast wrote:While your thinking there is correct, the whole point of this is to make usable horsepower. No dragstrips are open in the winter, and it's snowy and icy in the winter. You cannot utilize excess horsepower in the winter, it just digs a bigger hole in the snow...

That makes sense, but where I live it snows about one day a year.....does anyone know how much power I will net from a 2.55?

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