X-mas in June??

[redzmonte]

car still has a temp tag and already Santa shane is getting gifts to pay homage to the car gods! Just ordered 3" SS DP w/ cat and 3.25" quick change pulley setup from ZZP. lol after rummaging threw the garage i found my pulley puller under about a foot of dust (been sitting for quite a few years... bought some new odds and ends and got her ready to swap when it all gets here.

S

[00Beast]

A 3.25 will kill your motor in short order without valvetrain mods. Call ZZP NOW, change your order and get a 3.6 or a 3.4 at the smallest. Then figure out a way to scan for KR before the DP, after the DP and after the pulley goes on. I have KR on a 3.6 with a FWI, DP & HF Cat, 180* Thermostat and a Custom Tune.

[redzmonte]

No worries, this isn't my 1st L67 BTW, im at 5000 ft elevation (denver) so i won't see the boost you do in MN, air up here is very thin.

My last car was a L67 swapped Lumina Z34, had DHP 1.0, 3" DP, 2.5" Catback, 2* colder plug and intake... MAX KR i would ever see was 2* at WOT on a 3.0" pulley (12-13psi peak). had a MAG snout w/ 3.4", 3.25" and 3.0" pullies on it... Sold the car to a guy who still daily drives it as is, im not worried. BUT if i do get KR and cant tune it out then i will order another pulley and save this one for after the next round of mods.

I will get pics up when the parts are in. Ihave DHP Powrtuner so i can scan and tune.
Shane

[redzmonte]

ZZP 3"DP and 3.25 pulley arrived. will get installed this week sometime. I like the Spun housing cat, looks nice. Very nice quality pipe, nice welds and flanges. recommend to anyone interested in a DP.

[wake]

i would still at least get some headers if your gonna be running that small of a pulley

happy boosting!

[redzmonte]

3.25 in colorado is about the same boost level as 3.4 @ sea level. we will see how she turns out. I also got some new belts, SC oil, and NGK Tr6's.

[00Beast]

And a 3.4 at sea level is still too much for your mods. Do some scanning and be ready to call ZZP (or Intense) for a 3.4". Not trying to shut you down here, but I went straight to a 3.4 and it was too much. I'm now back to a 3.6, FWI, DP & Cat and 180* Thermostat and I still get KR with the tune I have. I'm at around 1000 feet where I'm at.

[Allmachtige]

I think you got your stuff in order as you know your region fairly well.

Always go with timing over boost as it yields more horsepower. Just balance boost with timing.

In the flatlands of northern Illinois I ran a 3.3-3.4 with 16-18 degrees of timing, which was piss poor compared to fellow GTPs with 20* on 3.2's. Each car is different, go figure.

Get 18* with little to no knock, then pulley down.

[redzmonte]

Got the DP installed. nice fit. I used a band clamp and it doesnt fit so well so i have leak on the DP side of the clamp. might just weld it up solid or add a flange.. did a scan, got 2* KR on the shifts IIRC that is normal. the motor rocks alot im going to inspect the mounts to see if they are tore. Anyone make a upper motor mount/dogbone like the GP's have? that would cut down ALOT of the engine movement, help with launches, smoother gear changes ect... I saw the Hockey puck mount helps a lot if your original is in bad shape...

Overall results Im very happy with the DP. More mid range power all the way up. I will see if i can keep my foot out of it and see what kind of MPG's i can get. averaging 20-21 mixed driving (Mostly side roads/city)

If the 3.25 is a little much even with tuning i will be the 1st to admit i was wrong... and order a 3.4 and swap it out. again based on my previous car i ran a 3.4, 3.25 and a 3.0 with Intake, DP, catback and DHP 1.0 without any issues 2* KR on a HOT day at WOT.

Stock VS ZZP:



Installed:


Shane

[wake]

Anyone make a upper motor mount/dogbone like the GP's have?

IIRC its a pretty straight forward swap..but i cant remember whats all involved..i know its a plausible modification

[00Beast]

The upper bar over the radiator is a piece of stamped sheet metal, it's not load-bearing at all like in the GP. You'd rip right through it if you tried to use it as an engine mounting point. Go with a hockey puck mount, and it will solve your issues.

I had my DP welded to the front of the resonator, and it's working just fine for me.

Everyone should note how tiny the actual inside diameter of the OE downpipe is. It's less than 2". That is the single largest air-flow restriction on the car. Anyone who has done a PLog and/or a ported rear and not done a DP hasn't even touched the full potential of those mods.

[sandrock]

Same story with the '97-99. They use the same DP/converter as the 2ks. Just on what I've done to my car with the new exhaust on it (ZZP 3in/Magnaflow 3" conv/3" resonator) the engine revs so much quicker and idles smoother. Can't wait to get mine on the road

[redzmonte]

The upper bar over the radiator is a piece of stamped sheet metal, it's not load-bearing at all like in the GP. You'd rip right through it if you tried to use it as an engine mounting point. Go with a hockey puck mount, and it will solve your issues.

I had my DP welded to the front of the resonator, and it's working just fine for me.

Everyone should note how tiny the actual inside diameter of the OE downpipe is. It's less than 2".

That is the concern in my mind on if it would work or not, it did look smaller then the W body support. im going to try the mount mod and see how she feels. IIRC seeing the side mount on the pass side that bolts to the oil pan, is that one pretty stout or is that one ever modded?

I was hoping to not have to weld the pipe in so i can swap it with stock if i sell or mod the car further, im just gunna weld it in and be done. every other car i have modded ive always sold with all the mods on it and pitched the stock parts so i guess im over thinking it. and yeah the stock DP is a big restriction IIRC the inner wall is 2.1" ID (atleast thats what the GP's measure at). the resonator looked straight threw as well so no restriction there.

S

[00Beast]

The side mounts rarely fail, no one has ever had problems with it, they just hold the engine up, they don't get twisting force really. The only mount that fails is the front mount.

A resonator is a glorified glass-pack, there isn't much to be restrictive there...

[redzmonte]

got the 3.25" pulley system installed and did a couple scans. 3-4* between 7000hz and 9000hz, then cleans up after 9K HZ, going to do a little tuning tonight. I am seeing ~9psi at WOT. LOL THANKFULLY my old beat up pulley puller made it threw this one, i got down to last little push to get the hub on and it died on me, the nut is stuck in place on the shaft. it is actually a tiny bit shy of flush but worked out perfect cause now the belt lines up on the center groves with 1 grove on either side (im not going to a 8 rib system so it looks better this way i think). Im still runing the stock airbox/filter, next project will be the puck mount and 3.5" CAI.

I did break one of the plug wires ends on the plug trying to remove it... I hate thoes things, don't know why they cant make a new style clip that doesnt break all the *dang* time. Luckally i was able to jerry-rig it back together. they are the 7mm napa wires i read here that everyone recommends and look newer. so i just ordered new ones. the plugs also look to be nearly new ACDelco ITR4A15's Lazer Iridium tipped.... i LOLed cause i looked at the seat of the plug and it is a NGK plug but says ACDelco on the ceramic. once the new wires come in i will put in the NGK TR6's and scan again. kinda thought about keeping the ACD's cause they are 100K plugs and $$$$. any thoughts on that, will a 1 step colder plug do much for me at this point?

[redzmonte]

Just looked up ITR4A15's are heat range 4 (stock is 5 IIRC) so the TR6's will be 2 colder. I would think that would make a good difference.

[00Beast]

Yeah, you definitely want to be at least one step colder than stock, if not two. I currently have AL104's, which are 2 steps colder.

[redzmonte]

cool, thanks. TR6=103's

Funny, same plug as the 1989-90 McLaren TGP (i had one)