N/A shortblock in a supercharged application?

[robroyoldboy]

I have to ask this question, as I'm expecting to trade the Taurus for or buy a 99 SSEi with an engine knock; Does anyone know if the N/A 3800 Series 2 shortblock would stand up to the supercharged application? I know that the entire top end is completely different, and I know there is a lot different about the bottom end, but the block is the same, right? So, will the N/A internals stand up to the supercharger? Would it run on pump gas still, or would I have to add an octane booster to every tank?

I'm asking this because I know where to get a 3800 s2 shortblock for less than $100, but it'll cost somewhere near $500 in parts and machining if I were to rebuild the one that's in it.

Or, if I can get the entire N/A engine assembly and ECM for less than $200, would it work with the existing wiring harness and transmission?

Or should I just wait and save my money until I can afford to rebuild the engine it comes with?

[00Beast]

While the N/A bottom can and has supported boost, your best bet will be to find a used L67 (Supercharged motor). They're fairly easy to find in junkyards for under $600. You could also get an L32 (04+ Grand Prix 3800 S/C) and either sell the S/C or swap to a different throttle body w/ adapter and MAF and run the Gen V (L67's have the Gen III M90) supercharger. Running an L67/L32 will give you the most mod-ability and the best longevity without worrying about if the bottom end is going to be able to withstand boost.

You will want to run Premium (minimum 91 octane) no matter what you choose. The supercharged motors actually have LOWER compression OE to accommodate boost, so running an N/A bottom end would make it MORE important to run a higher octane, as the combustion chamber will be experiencing more force. Bottled Octane boosters are worthless. 1 point = .1 octane, so if it raises it 6 points, it goes from 87 to 87.6 octane. I don't trust them as far as I can throw them.

[willwren]

Rob Roy, please take about an hour and look through our Techinfo section. Most of your questions can be answered for you, including:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... f=44&t=194

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =44&t=1687

I've personally helped a member swap an engine that failed near my house. It was an L36 that he had supercharged (and it was his second or third failure). When I autopsied his engine 2 months later (it was left behind), the same thing was found as in the article above by Sandrock regarding the L27 failure. The rods flex under the increased compression due to the supercharger, and that load is transmitted to the rod and crank bearings each ignition cycle. Those bearings were fried beyond belief.

Don't buy the car. It's cheaper in the long run to buy an L67 powered car up front, and you ALSO get the better suspension, HUD, better audio, and the list goes on and on.

Since this isn't a supercharger-specific question, and it's not a mechanical problem with your car, I'll move this to the proper section for you. Please take time to read the Techinfo section, and the Various forum descriptions as well.

[01bonneSC]

The car he is gonna buy IS an SSEi.

If you wanna take it on doing an engine right off the bat, just find a junkyard L67 and put that in. As Bill said the person was on their second or third failure from top swapping an L36. Stick with L67 parts.

[willwren]

ONLY the block is compatible IMO. Anything else is selling yourself short. The short block itself is weak as a package. Once you start to mod it, you increase the chances of failure UNLESS you really know what you're doing and are an accomplished tuner with years of experience on the 3800.

[robroyoldboy]

Ok, so if I'm gonna do anything keeping the original engine I'll wanna just do the whole rebuild and machine work. Gotcha.

As for my reasons for wanting to take on the project, I'm expecting to get this car for $1200 or less. That puts me having a fully loaded 99 SSEi for about $2k! Or I might be able to trade my Taurus for the car and just pay for the engine out of my pocket. That way I'll be into the project for about $1500 out of pocket total!

BTW, I'm not talking about using the L36 shortblock as a permanent solution, but rather as a temporary to get me by until I can afford to rebuild the L67. That's why I asked about using the whole L36 assembly and the ECM. Can anyone tell me if that will work?

[willwren]

Why are you doing a rebuild? It's not uncommon for a perfect L67 to be 'retired' because the 3rd transmission failed and the value of the car is less than the cost of a trans rebuild.

Buy an L67 from a wrecker with known mileage, certified oil pressure, and certified compression. Rebuilding an L67 is an art and can be expensive. It's not anywhere near as easy or economical as rebuilding a 350 V8.

We RARELY see a rebuild done here, and in most of those cases, it wasn't necessary.

Quit planning 'temporary' and do it right the first time with a certified wrecker L67 motor.

[01bonneSC]

Why are you doing a rebuild?

I have to ask this question, as I'm expecting to trade the Taurus for or buy a 99 SSEi with an engine knock;

[willwren]

You missed my point. Forget the rebuild, and go get a wrecker motor. With the specs I listed above. You SCRAP the motor with the knock, and replace it, not rebuild.

[00Beast]

I concur. It will cost you well over $1,000 to rebuild a motor to stock condition, when you could spend less and get a motor that has a few miles on it but is still in good condition, and have mod money. Wrecker L67's can be found as cheap as $200, and L32's (slightly stronger with a better s/c) can be found with very low miles for around $6-800 all day long. harofreak00's last flip, the white SSEi, got a 21,000 mile L32 that ran smooth as silk, and will probably out-last the transmission and body of the car.

[robroyoldboy]

I recently saw 2 complete L67s with wiring harness and ECM a couple weeks ago, one for $500, the other for $900. Apparently both of them have since sold though, and I haven't been able to find another one. That's why I'm looking for a temporary solution while I come up with the money. Apparently people in my local area haven't seen these prices that you speak of. Besides, I would like to have a recently freshened-up engine in my Bonnie. Might help my Fiance be ok with me having a car older than 2000.

[00Beast]

www.car-part.com

That will lead you to an endless amount of salvage yards with engines for good prices. Most of them will even ship you an engine for a reasonable price.

[robroyoldboy]

OOoooo.... You have no idea how much my Fiance is going to hate you... LOL!!! Thanks for the info!!!