Thermostat,supercharger,and C/V shaft ''Q's""

[charged]

I just had to replace the thermo. in my Bonnevile due to a leaking seal,O'reilly's only had the 195 deg. one. I see Alot of guys on here using a 180... I wanted that but they said Its all thats called for. Anyone know whats up with that? Its not a big deal,just curious..

Also,one I was done and letting it warm up,I noticed a slight howling coming from the Supercharger,it was pretty faint and would come and go. It only did it on idle. You give it any gas it goes away.

Now,one last thing,(I just got my acct. on here so Ive got all sorts of questions! Sorry) ,My c/v sahft is spitting grease all over the inner fender,and that side of the trans. Theres no clunking yet but,my Q is how difficult is it to change out?.....BTW Im another victom of the death shake at 65-75!

[Ken_W]

No problem with questions -- the folks here are happy to help. I might suggest breaking different questions up into different posts however; if you keep the questions direct and to-the-point you will get better replies than if you have a post with multiple questions. (Also, if a question is universal and not 2000-2005 specific, post it in the General Chat section. There are more people in that section, and you will get even more replies.)

I don't have good answers to your first two questions, but you might get some insight into the CV axle question by reading a thread from a couple months ago:

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=20967&hilit=drive+axle+boot

Ken_W

[Archon]

The 195* thermostat is stock for the car. Autozone and Advance Auto Parts both carry the 180*, but in order to really get the benefit from that you would need to have the computer programmed to have the fans turn on at a lower temperature.

Does the howling sound seem to be louder on the driver's side? If so, it may be normal with the idle air control action on a cold engine, especially if it goes away after a few minutes.

If the CV joint has been spitting grease for a while, it should be replaced. You'd likely find it easier in the long run, and not much more expensive, just to replace the entire axle.

[charged]

hmmmm... well I guess I could just leave it a 195.. its factory that way. I problly would get to much of a benifit or would I?
As far as the supercharger goes thats the big one for me... I know it was completly cold when I did the thermostat....then as it warmed up I starded hearing it....I never herd it before(prolly not payin att. to it... I dont open the hood unless to check or change oil)...maybe normal?? Its not very loud,just dont seem right. Maybe Ill change the S.C. oil???

[01bonneSC]

Possibly a worn coupler, fairly common.
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/mer ... _Induction

How many miles on the car?

[charged]

Its got 74K right now..

[00Beast]

Could be a coupler. Remove the S/C belt and see if there's play in the charger pulley while spinning it. If there is, it's the coupler. About an hour and $30 to fix.

[charged]

Ill give that a try,it could use a new belt anyway,Im pretty sure its factory. If there is any play,whats involved? Do you have to pull the Charger? Or just pull out the main shaft?

[01bonneSC]

The shaft/pulley

[lunchboxx]

After draining the old stank oil, you are halfway to changing the coupler. Just a few bolts ( Pontiac was nice enough to only hide one of them directly under the snout) and it comes right off. Make sure to pick up the coupler kit from intense or similar as it comes with the proper material to form a new gasket on the snout of the supercharger. If you were planning on changing the oil anyhow, you might as well do the coupler especially with 75k on it.

You can do it!! It's not hard at all.

[00Beast]

You just have to pull the nosedrive. You can see the bolts around the face, where the pulley goes in. You don't have to remove the S/C unless you want.

[charged]

so its a prevenitive measure? I really never noticed this sound,but its so faint I cant pin point it. Is that kit expensive? Oh.. I read somrwere that getting the old oil out you can use a spray nozzle?

[00Beast]

Not really preventative, just replacing it as it fails. The kits are $30 or so. Yeah, take the nozzle from a windex bottle, stick the tube down in the plug hole and pump it into the bottle, then put the pump back on and throw it out. Just be aware that it stinks, as it's basically cooked animal fat.

[willwren]

Click the red link in my signature. I think it'll help you.

[charged]

Thanks guys,Im gonna try and get this done soon,I went in Advanced A/P and asked about the coupler and they all looked at me like an idiot!! and said ''all our perfomance stuff is in the corner! Thats why Im glad I registered with this club!!!!!

[00Beast]

Check our Links. Either Rolling Performance or Canadian Supercharger will have what you need.

[01bonneSC]

Thanks guys,Im gonna try and get this done soon,I went in Advanced A/P and asked about the coupler and they all looked at me like an idiot!! and said ''all our perfomance stuff is in the corner! Thats why Im glad I registered with this club!!!!!

Wow....they didnt even try to look it up?

[charged]

no they pointed to the aftermarket stuff and said thats all we have...Luckily the manager overheard and stop me.He said that Dorman is now making the coupler,and its like $20.00.but he has to order it,and comes with no seal..The other 3 need to be flippin burgers.I worked at o'riellys, and that was lame on there part!

[00Beast]

You will need a coupler, anerobic gasket maker and either 2-4oz bottles of GM Supercharger oil or 1-8oz of the same stuff from Intense. Do not use anything but GM or Eaton Supercharger oil. Nothing else will work, period. I wouldn't use a Dorman coupler, use a GM/Eaton unit.

From Rolling Performance: http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm

Intense Coupler Kit (Everything you need): http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/mer ... _Induction