Lets talk topswap - goin' returnless!

[sandrock]

Well, that "complete" top swap I bought on ebay wasn't really complete. MOSTLY complete, but not entirely. Good news is that 'charger is in remarkable shape. It kinda wish I didn't have to take it apart, but I do want that wrinkle paint on there and a good P&P.

Anyways, here's what I got with the kit:

S/C
LIM
Injectors
Fuel rail
Heads & valve covers

Now then, I also did get an idler and a tensioner. The idler looks like it fits one of the heads, but I am not certain if it combos itself with the ICM bracket, or if the ICM bracket is specific to an L67. Can anyone verify? Also, I am currently using the L36 accessory drive (1997), and I know that changed sometime in 99 I think...the only reason I would change that is to run the newer alternator, but is it the same as an L67 of that same vintage?

Next up, I'm not looking to get all-out power with this. The CR of the L26 limits what I can do, so there will be no pulley changes. I will, however, need to look into a fuel pump. I already have an adjustable FPR on the car, and a brand-new one sitting in the garage that will go on the L67 rail so I can fine-tune the pressure as needed. The plan is to run slightly richer than stoich (14.2 is the number I am thinking) and a slightly dumbed-down L67 ignition table to keep me from pinging. And Bill, I plan on integrating one of your mods into this (well, several actually), more to help with reliability than performance.

And for those reading this that have heard "It's better to sell your L36 car and get a supercharged car to start with"...I couldn't agree more with that statement. However, over the years I have built up a decent drivetrain that can certainly handle a stock M90 setup, transmission included. I also have everything needed to monitor KR closely and reprogram the PCM to properly dial in the TS setup.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

Top swap? With your car, it'll be fun.

[sandrock]

I started taking the supercharger apart yesterday, and it looks to be a fairly low-mileage unit. The oil wasn't too bad...still smelled like my ex-wife though The rotor chamber was just beginning to get the oil tinge...wasn't gunked up at all. Overall, a very good unit that I could have used as-was, but y'all know me...that's not my style.

Right now, I have the snout turned pulley-side down with some brake fluid in there to check for leaks at the seal. If no leaks, it's going to get cleaned real good, scuffed, and made ready for the wrinkle coat. Same with the rotor plate. For the casing, it'll get a mild cleanup job with the dremel.

[willwren]

FYI, I don't scuff the parts for wrinkle. But I do use CSC, which microscopically etches the surface as it degreases. I do a final wipe with rubbing alcohol an hour before pre-warming and coating.

[sandrock]

Any good recommendations to follow for the TB? I'm looking to do that as well, though I need to find a 99+. The one I have has the MAF sail, and I really don't want to use it.

After looking at the casing, how much gain could one expect from taking all the material out from in between the silencer ports? To me, I'd think it would be easier to cut all of that out, and blend in the outer edges from what is left of the silencer ports.

[95naSTA]

IIRC you can put down plenty of power with a stock L36 fuel pump, more power than it looks like you're after.

The pre-99 TB is the one you want if you're going to port it. With the pre-99 maf post removed, you can open the TB up more than you can when grinding down the maf hump in a 99+. You just have to open up the hole for the maf and run a 99+ maf.

[sandrock]

I'm already running the 99+ MAF and TB with the L26, so I'm good on that end. I had planned on sticking with the L36 pump since it's new anyway, and I have an adjustable FPR to put on the fuel rail so I can up the pressure a tad. My plan is to keep the 4" pulley, and with the ported housing and lower and larger TB I should be flowing well enough to lower the boost pressure, keeping my L26 happy. Fuel injectors will be stock, but with the higher fuel pressure I will run they should atomize much better.

[00Beast]

The S/C came with a 4" pulley?

[sandrock]

Well, whatever the stock one is. Remember my last supercharged car was Series 1, and I am still schooling myself on the M90.

[00Beast]

Ah. Stock is 3.8", FWIW.

[sandrock]

Well....I has snout leakage.

From the looks of things, I can have INTENSE put a new seal on there with the snout being machined for 50 bucks. While I don't need to have the snout turned, it's more cost effective for me to go this route. The bearings seem to be fine, so there's no need to touch them.

[sandrock]

Looks like I have a little more to learn about the M90. Didn't know about the stone breather plug in the pulley nut. Since that's where all the fluid went to when I had the snout inverted, I guess this means the snout is good afterall Ok, so snout is good, coupler is good, bearings are good. Just a regrease on the bearings, and some new fluid after the wrinkle job and it'll be good to go.

[sandrock]

*Blows dust off*

Just put in a parts request in the wanted section to get the rest of what I need.

Now, I want to know, since everything will be apart anyways, what will it take to get this beast to run E85? Where I am going, there will be plenty of it, and due to the higher compression ratio, it might be beneficial to go that route.

The plan is to run E85-capable fuel line (mostly steel line with SS flex line going to the fuel rail) and fuel filter. Just put in a brand new fuel pump so that should be okay. The programming exists through HPT to get the PCM the way it needs to, so that shouldn't be a problem either.

Am I missing anything else that would need to be addressed?

[1oldman]

Are you sure you want to do that? You'll have issues like you wouldn't believe running E85. You'll need new valves. valve stem guides, and I don't know what else inside or outside the engine. E85 is really corrosive and fuel mileage "sucks".

[00Beast]

Where are you getting the valve info from Oldman? Valves aren't the issue AFAIK, like I said in your E15 thread.

[sandrock]

Valves wouldn't be an issue anyways....heads are going to be redone as soon as they get to OKC. Corrosiveness? Only thing to consider would be the fuel tank if that were the case, which it isn't. Fuel mileage? Not an issue with this one...it's for play and nothing else.

[Larz01]

Are you sure you want to do that? You'll have issues like you wouldn't believe running E85. You'll need new valves. valve stem guides, and I don't know what else inside or outside the engine. E85 is really corrosive and fuel mileage "sucks".

And cheaper than 91 premium to drive the same distance. You need to do nothing except 60 bs injectors, wideband, watch your fuel pressure, and change the filter. It's easier than I Thought it would be when I switched; key is to have a good as tune with bigger injectors fill-up than add 33-35% to the ifr & take 10 minutes to dial maf.

Like Oldman said there are alot of problems because these engines aren't designed for ethanol. Lol Just a healthier, cleaner burning, better performing engine.

[sandrock]

Well, since I have to replace *most* of the fuel system anyway...

Ebay purchase - 2004 L32 fuel rail w/injectors - 29.00

Running a returnless system has its merrits, but to re-engineer our setups would be pretty hard. Or so I thought...

I found a fuel filter that includes a pressure regulator built into it. It's sourced from a '99-03 (I think) Corvette, and these include the mounting bracket. Looks to be a near-perfect fit for the original filter, which makes me happy. Since I have to drop the tank to replace the sender anyways, I can rework the fuel lines at that time, and just unplug the FPR at the rail until I am ready to do the TS.

[95naSTA]

You can also do this with a return system and a retunless rail.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/106883.html
http://forums.motorswap.org/viewtopic.p ... 2dc1fc9334

[sandrock]

Update -

Haven't done much since I've had to move and all, but today I scored a new AC Delco fuel sender for 55 bucks, so that adds another missing piece of the puzzle. Once I'm all settled in to the new home, I'll get some braided fuel line, some stainless tubing, and a few other bits and pieces to get this setup for returnless going.