Drum brake replacement tips/tricks?

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

I swore high and low I wouldn't do drum brakes again. Oh well. A very slightly leaking wheel cylinder forced my hand. I have new wheel cylinders, new shoes, and new hardware. And new brake lines going to the wheel cylinders. I'm planning on putting some anti-seize on the contact points between the shoes and the backing plate, and dolling up the adjuster with some silicone grease so it spins freely. Also, I'm shooting some penetrating oil at the parking brake to unfreeze the cables. My factory service manuals will be out to the right page, and AutoZone is 2 miles away if I need anything.

Any tips/tricks I should know about to make things go easier? And is there anything I'm missing?

[myfirstbonnie]

Make sure you get a spring removal install tool. It makes it a lot easier.

[turkeykiller]

What about the drums? Are you turning them? New ones? Don't forget to check the other cylinder while your there. Make sure that there is no oil in the boot. Good luck.

[J Wikoff]

I didn't have problems just using needle nose pliers the last time I monkeyed with the drum brake spring.

[enslow]

I swore high and low I wouldn't do drum brakes again. ....

I'm like you. I thought I was done with drum brakes because I had 4-wheel disk brakes. Then I bought my wife a 97 Lesabre. Nice car actually, but I still prefer my Grand Marquis.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

I'm re-using the drums since they're just fine, and new ones are $40 I'd rather not spend. The last time I checked them, they weren't pitted/scored/cracked.

If I remember, I'll get some pictures of the process.

[GMC Guy]

I would take some emery cloth and scuff the drums before re install.

I would put anti seize on the threads of the star wheel too.

[Wes]

I didn't have problems just using needle nose pliers the last time I monkeyed with the drum brake spring.

I use needle nose pliers as well. Imo, we have the easiest drums brakes made. You dont have to mess with the order of 10 different springs, retainer spring/lock nut, etc. You only have to wory about fighting with one spring. Once that horse shoe spring is in place, the adjuster spring is cake. Although I'd still rather do disc brakes vs our drums, its better than most drum brake setups.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

I have nightmares about the last drum brakes I fixed. We'll see how these go. Coming down some steep and long hills today, the fronts felt like they were doing all the work. Something says the rears need some TLC.

[enslow]

I have nightmares about the last drum brakes I fixed. We'll see how these go. Coming down some steep and long hills today, the fronts felt like they were doing all the work. Something says the rears need some TLC.

It can't be anyworse than doing the parking drum brake on the 4-wheel disk brakes of my Mercury. The official method it to remove the axle because the hub is in the way. It is possible to do without removing the axle, but I found I rehearsed my technical vocabulary of the 4-letter kind a lot.

What I remember of drum brakes is keep organized, take pictures, and do one side at a time. The other thing I learned was to make sure you back off the star wheel the required number of notches after setting the brakes up. I heated up my drums a little too much the next day after finishing my brakes. I pulled over and stopped the car without setting the parking brake while they cooled.

[Bob Dillon]

I hate to admit this, but my car just passed 201K with the original brake shoes and drums in place-and I have new drums and shoes sitting on the shelf.

I took a look while searching for my elusive rattle a few weeks ago and there is little wear, even though I adjust them out manually every 25-30K or so.

I've come to the conclusion that whether adjusted correctly or not, the rears just don't do much work in our cars.

[sonoma_zr2]

@ 346K I too am on original rears. I have adjusted them once but am not going to mess with them till they fail. Just keep replacing rotors/pads I guess.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

I figured that with a wheel cylinder leaking, it's best to do shoes and hardware too. When you make 10 million of the same wheel cylinders, a bunch will fail after 10 years.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

It's done. I'll post pictures later. The mechanicals are simple, although the order that you put things back together is important.

What I forgot to do was to adjust the adjusting wheel back out to about the number of threads showing before I took them apart. When I put it together with the adjusters not adjusted, the brake pedal went to the floor. I spent a good hour with my dad bleeding the lines again (they're now very thoroughly bled!) before noticing the adjusters weren't where they used to be. I adjusted them to where the drums were slightly dragging, backed them off a few notches, and that was when the pedal firmed up very nicely.

And, with new shoes, sanded drums, and new wheel cylinders/hardware, the car stops very nicely. The rear brakes are indeed doing their fair share of the work.

[turkeykiller]

185000KM 0n 1997 Both cylinder were leaking

I figured that with a wheel cylinder leaking, it's best to do shoes and hardware too. When you make 10 million of the same wheel cylinders, a bunch will fail after 10 years.

[LeSabre in Buffalo]

I'm noticing a "clunk" or a "click" on the drivers side rear wheel. I can feel it through the pedal when I stop from higher speeds, and the first time after I use the brakes in a while. That was the side I did grind down the shoe backing a little to make the adjuster fit nicely, so maybe it's not adjusted out enough, and adjuster is loose in the shoe. Or not seated in the other shoe, and popping out when I hit the brakes. . Oh well, it stops noticeably more securely, and the rear wheels are doing some work.