Front Brakes 1993

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Front Brakes 1993

Post by 1993SSEi »

Going to do the Front Brakes now, Pads and replacing the Rotors (needs new Rotors badly).

Are there any special Tools needed besides the basic Caliper depressor and Hex Driver?
Thx.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by J Wikoff »

Caliper depressor, 3/8" hex driver... and some disc brake pad goo stuff. Even if the directions for the pads say it isn't needed, use it anyway. It goes a long way to keeping brakes quiet.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by ChilinMichael »

...and a hanger to hold up the calipers...don't hang them by the brake lines :wink:
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by 2000Silverbullet »

Paint the calipers red. :wink:

Check the rubber lines. If there are any cracks in the outer rubber, replace them.
When was the last time the calipers were replaced? It should be done every second pad change at the minimum. I change mine out every time. :wink:
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by 00Beast »

Paul, from my experience, if the slides are fine and the brakes aren't dragging, I leave the calipers.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by LeSabre in Buffalo »

Buy decent rotors and pads. These cars warp rotors like no other, so buying good ones makes a lot of sense compared to buying 2-3 sets of cheap ones.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by 2000Silverbullet »

No disrespect but you must have limited experience young man.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It absorbs water. Water will collect at the low spot in your braking system which happens to be the caliper bores. (If you're anal like me you flush out your entire brake fluid system every two years to lessen water accumulation.)
The caliper bores are cast iron. Cast iron pits.
When the pads wear the pistons push out and exposes the caliper bore to water which pits the bores.
These pits will grow over time.
When you install new pads, the pistons push in and now the piston seal is riding on those pits.
Leakage or at worse catastrophic brake failure can occur.

Calipers are what...$25 each....cheap insurance, and you get to paint them properly on a bench before the job begins. :wink:

I still have the original front calipers in use in my 79 Firebird. It has a stainless steel cup, so all I have to do is change out the seal after popping out the piston. All the replacement calipers are galvanized and pit quick.
Last edited by 2000Silverbullet on Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by spydog »

you will need a wire brush to
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by Wes »

LeSabre in Buffalo wrote:Buy decent rotors and pads. These cars warp rotors like no other, so buying good ones makes a lot of sense compared to buying 2-3 sets of cheap ones.
Agreed. Low cost brakes= low quality chinese crap (most of the time). Go for the good stuff when it comes to brakes.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by John Deere Boy »

00Beast wrote:from my experience, if the slides are fine and the brakes aren't dragging, I leave the calipers.
I agree here. I'm still on my original calipers, no leaks. But, they had rusted inside the rubber slide bushings, so i pulled out the rubber, wire brushed the inside diameter with a drill, then put new rubbers in and greased the pins. If you don't have a caliper depressor, a C-clamp works.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by harofreak00 »

John Deere Boy wrote:
00Beast wrote:from my experience, if the slides are fine and the brakes aren't dragging, I leave the calipers.
I agree here. I'm still on my original calipers, no leaks. But, they had rusted inside the rubber slide bushings, so i pulled out the rubber, wire brushed the inside diameter with a drill, then put new rubbers in and greased the pins. If you don't have a caliper depressor, a C-clamp works.
x2, I agree. Changing the calipers every 2 brake changes is like changing your oil every 500 miles.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by repinS »

Ad an added note, properly adjusted rear brakes can also go a long way to preserve your front rotors. While the fronts do most of the work anyway, you don't want them to be doing 100% :wink:
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by 2000Silverbullet »

x2, I agree. Changing the calipers every 2 brake changes is like changing your oil every 500 miles.
Has anyone dis-assembled a Caliper? Does the seal attach to the iron wall or the piston cup?
Is the piston cup stainless steel?

I would agree that changing out the calipers is not necessary only if the original caliper was still installed in the car but not if rebuilt units have replaced the originals and the seal rides against a corrodable surface like cast iron or even galvanized steel.

It used to be common practice to hone out cylinder bores on every brake change but replacements now are cheaper than the labour to do that.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by SSEimatt93 »

I can honeslty say, I have never re-used a wheel cylinder or caliper. Even on my Alero with only 45,000 miles on it. Threw em out, new ones were like 80 bucks a side. Nice new fluid, pads, rotors, and a good bleed, good as new.
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by 2000Silverbullet »

Ditto for me too Matt. I recommended every 2nd pad change but in reality I do it every time.

Andrew,
I change my Mobil 1 every six months or 4,000 miles (6,500 km).
During WCBF's I change it before I go and when I come back ~ $1,500 miles.

Remember most of my vehicles were purchased brand new, they are all in like new condition and very reliable after more than 30 years. :wink:
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by willwren »

Where the heck are you finding $25 calipers?
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by 2000Silverbullet »

Canadian Tire eh!! :bow:
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Re: Front Brakes 1993

Post by SSEimatt93 »

I still love Canadian tire. Everything is on sale. If you get the right parts the first time, its worth it.
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