control arm removal question

[nicklikesmilk]

I'm replacing the control arm on my bonneville. But the bolts holding it to the subframe are bigger than any wrench i own. (biggest i've got it 3/4"). I would buy a new wrench in order to do the job, but i'm not sure what size to get. Can anyone here fill me in?

[myfirstbonnie]

What year, siggy says non boneville, but posted in the 92-99 section? Putting 2 and 2 together, you have a bonnie between the years 92 and 99.

[nicklikesmilk]

yeah, i posted in here for that reason. haven't driven the bonnie in a while, because of the crash.

anyway, to clarify. 1996 SE

[xX3800Xx]

I believe its 24mm for the long bolt and 21 or 22 for the short bolt

[nicklikesmilk]

I got lucky, and didn't need to buy any wrenches. My stepdad let me borrow a few from his set. So i will get out there hopefully tomorrow

[nicklikesmilk]

Well, I got the control arm most of the way off, but i'm wondering how to get the everything else back into place (everything else = strut, wheel bearing/hub, half shaft). I would imagine with the strut sitting further back, a new control arm/ball joint wouldn't line up.

I saw this
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... ontrol+arm
but it doesn't say much about moving the everything back to line it all up.

any input?

[willwren]

Did you scribe where the control arm mated to the strut before you started? If not, you won't be close, but probably need an alignment anyway.

[nicklikesmilk]

I'm not sure if that would be good, as the control arm i'm replacing is bent back. I was figuring on getting an alignment once i got it back together anyway. I'm just a little stumped in the getting things back together phase.

edit: someone i met (only an acquaintance, so i can't verify his expertise) said that removing the strut, lining it up with the new control arm/ball joint, and reinstalling it would help. can anyone on here verify that? it sounds reasonable to me

[92BonneSE]

Im not sure how you did yours...When I replaced my front control arm I removed the stabilizer link, took off the ball joint nut, then took out the control arm bolts. Then I got my handy mini sledge hammer and went to town the hit the control arm to get the ball joint free and it pretty much just fell out after that. Then I grabbed my new one and put started the control arm bolts, then lined up the ball joint and got that back into the hole and put the nut and cotter pin in for the ball joint. Then I just tightened up the control arm bolts and put the stabilizer link back in.

I dont understand the talking about the alignment of the strut or anything because you shouldn't even have to take it that far apart....You should be able to move the strut around the get it lined back up with the ball joint but after you get the ball joint back in it shouldnt go anywhere

[bill buttermore]

I don't know what you have disassembled so far, but here is how I would change out a control arm. Remove the caliper and rotor from the knuckle. Wire up the caliper to the strut spring. Remove the end link for the stabilizer bar from the control arm - you may have to cut it. Separate the tie-rod joint from the steering knuckle. Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Remove the big nut on the drive axle. Undo the big bolts holding the control arm to the frame. If you have removed the drive axle and the strut from the steering knuckle, reinstall them without starting the axle nut. Install the new ball joint into the replacement control arm (if it did not come with one or if it needs to be replaced). Install the new control arm with the big fasteners to the sub-frame snug but not tight. Pull the knuckle (with the strut and axle in place) back and up, and push the control arm down to fit the ball joint post into the steering knuckle. With the ball joint nut tight, install the tie-rod end and tighten the nut. Block and raise the control arm until the angle that the control arm makes with the frame is about where it would be with the car sitting level on the ground. Tighten the big fasteners holding the control arm to the frame. Install the rotor and caliper to the knuckle and jam the rotor with a big screwdriver against the caliper. Install and tighten the axle nut. Install the wheel and drive the car onto a ramp. With the weight of the car on the suspension, install and tighten the end link for the stabilizer bar.


Edit: 92BonneSE: Did not see your post before I posted, but agree with you. And....great avatar.

[nicklikesmilk]

I'm in the middle of the job. I got the ball joint apart, and separated, and got the longer bolt out (after much work). The shorter one is still in, as i ran out of time when it was nice out. So all i have is the short bolt, and then installing the new control arm. I guess i figured that after the ball joint was out, the strut and knuckle would just easily pull back into place. I can probably figure it out once i get that far.

[nicklikesmilk]

Well, i got the bent control arm off, and a new one started. But then the back CV boot on the half shaft seems to have come out too far. It is quite concerning, at least to me. I can't figure out how to get it back in, and the ball joint won't line up. The hole in the knuckle for it is too far out, and i can't push the knuckle back in. I've got a few pictures in case my description isn't clear.

[bill buttermore]

It appears that the inner joint on the drive axle has pulled apart. They will come apart internally if you pull on them. If it won't push back together (try twisting the shaft relative to the inner joint housing as you push and wiggle) you will need to remove the axle from the trans by prying, pulling or striking the heavy metal tulip of the inner joint close to the trans. You already know not to pull on the shaft. See Techinfo article: Replace Drive Axles. Once the shaft is out, match-mark the inner joint with the shaft so the wearing parts will stay in the same place. The inner joint boot can be removed by cutting the steel band or compressing and unlocking it with a special tool (depending on the type of band used). Once the band is off, you can disassemble the joint, meticulously clean, apply a new packet of grease, re-assemble, and install a new band. The band tool costs about $20 at O'Reilly's, grease pack about $3, new band about $3. If you are not up for the re-assembly, a rebuilt half-shaft (drive axle) is about $59.

[nicklikesmilk]

If re-assembly is necessary, i'm guessing once i get the shaft out and taken apart, the inner joint itself isn't hard to put back together. I will hopefully get out there today or tomorrow, as i am leaving town this weekend.

[bill buttermore]

If re-assembly is necessary, i'm guessing once i get the shaft out and taken apart, the inner joint itself isn't hard to put back together. I will hopefully get out there today or tomorrow, as i am leaving town this weekend.

You are right. The inner tri-pot joint is relatively simple. The outer Rzeppa joint is more complex. And, the band is easy to deal with when you have the proper tool.

[nicklikesmilk]

well i got it open, and found out one of the (not sure on the name here) bearing type parts on the tripod is broken. some of the rollers on both sides of the one are broken and out of place. I definitely do not want to re-use it. Is that part by itself replaceable? I'm not even seeing a new CV joint on rockauto, all i see is the full half shaft assembly (which i may just go with anyway to save time)

[bill buttermore]

I can't imagine it would be cost effective to rebuild or replace one of the joints. I would just get a rebuilt drive axle from a parts house. O'Reilly's gets about $60 for them - and I think you get a lifetime warranty too.