Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
LeSabre in Buffalo wrote:I can see where they want the coolant going through the TB in cold, wet climates where the TB can ice over.
It would be interesting to know throttle body temperature under the hood even in a cold climate. And the exhaust heats up much more quickly than the coolant. I'll bet in my climate (seldom gets under 45) it's just not needed, but of course GM has to engineer the car for the coldest climate in which the car operates.
To the OP: Let us know how things turn out!
Yes, please. I certainly hope there was no internal damage.
The temperature of incoming air has a lot to do with the TB icing or not. For those of us in the north (or where it gets to 32* F/0* C regularly in the winter) it's possible to have a cold, humid day. The wet, cold air comes in, chills the TB, and ice forms since the TB eventually drops below 32* F. That's the reason for the coolant passages in the TB. I took off the TB coolant lines on a previous car, and it did ice up the TB one very cold, wet night. It was scary going down I-90 with my foot on the floor barely making 55 mph...
I've also seen intake air temperatures well below freezing on my ScanGauge in the Buick. It doesn't like air much below 30 degrees, else it knocks up a storm.
To the OP: if there are any other gaskets/plugs/wires you'd like to replace now that you have the access, now is a good time to do so.
2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car
1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car
Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.
I think Ill just say with the standard plenum as I am sick and tired of messing with this POS engine tht I wanted to replace altogether to begin. Oh well nothing I can do now.
Will be changing oil and flushing oil again today and ordering plenum tonight and hopefully it'll be here by Friday or Saturday. And I am just praying that none of the rods are bent and I'm assuming there not as it seems to tub over fine but will be doing a compression check anyways.
Do a compression test. An engine with a bent rod will turn over just fine. Chances are the rods are fine, but now is the time to check the compression.
Well yes and no. I will betalking to a friend at the dealer and seeing what kind of deal I can get since I dont need that whole kit but i doubt he will be able to get me anything cheaper although that would be great then I could have it back together by the end of the weekend.
Otherwse I will be ordering the APN kit and then having to wait and then it prolly wont be done for 2 weeks :sad5:
oh. Btw what is the compressionsupposed to be?
Similar for all cylinders I know but I mean for these motors in general.
It seems like I saw 120-150 psi somewhere???
Last edited by 94SilverSSEi on Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I only had time to do one. Ill get to the other five tomorrow. And well see. It seems like it turns over okay and everything. So I've got my fingers crossed
Its not necessarily what pressure, all that matters is that they're all the same.
Bye Bye: RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
That's not true at all, Ed. The pressure does matter quite a bit. Let's see all the numbers and we'll talk more about it. I'd also like to know your technique. HOW you use that gauge can affet your readings.
Update: Got new plenum today. Have a friend at the dealer and got it for $79. I figured why wait 3-7 and pay another $26 for all the extra crap when I already bought it then I can have the car done this weekend.
Also obviously the top of the motor is not on so we just turned over the motor for 10 seconds with key and it read 130psi
Motor turning over fine doesn't mean anything. Rod can be bent and have no signs. The compression test will tell all.
Bye Bye: RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
Well cylinders 1, 3, 5 all testeD between 130-140. The backs are too much of a biotch to do so we said just screw it.
Motor should be back together today. The WHOLE oil filter was filled white crap. Assuming it is burnt colanty oil. After the second oil flush. The oil was clean.
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
I hope 
