Rear Shocks?
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billberry12
- SSE Member

- Posts: 106
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 6:47 pm
- Year and Trim: 2001 SE 130,000 miles.
Rear Shocks?
$300 at Midas installed. $450 at Goodyear installled. I can't do it myself. Any better suggestions? Does not included mounts. These seem to be as good a price as I can find.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
2001 SE
130,000 miles. All but 11,000 are mine.
Want to drive it another 130,000! Any tips are welcome.
130,000 miles. All but 11,000 are mine.
Want to drive it another 130,000! Any tips are welcome.
- harofreak00
- Administrator

- Posts: 26022
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- Year and Trim: 2004 GXP - plus a handful of other Bonnevilles
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Re: Rear Shocks?
Who says you can't do it? Its really not difficult at all. All you need is a standard socket set.
$100 installed... in your driveway
$100 installed... in your driveway
Andrew - owner/operator of Bonnevilles Unlimited

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 57k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 115k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 280k | Official Bonneville Hauler

2004 Bonneville GXP | 60k | White Gold Tricoat | custom built supercharged 3800 hot rod | garage queen
1997 Corvette | 57k | Silver Metallic | Z06 wheels | Date-night Hauler/Parts runner
2014 Town & Country Limited | Cashmere Pearl | 115k | Family Hauler
2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Sport | Black| 280k | Official Bonneville Hauler
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billberry12
- SSE Member

- Posts: 106
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 6:47 pm
- Year and Trim: 2001 SE 130,000 miles.
Re: Rear Shocks?
Where can I get step by step instructions on doing this. I might just give it a shot. What is the most economical way to put a decent safe pair on without busting the piggybank? What do I need to get?
Thanks,
Thanks,
2001 SE
130,000 miles. All but 11,000 are mine.
Want to drive it another 130,000! Any tips are welcome.
130,000 miles. All but 11,000 are mine.
Want to drive it another 130,000! Any tips are welcome.
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Jrs3800
- Retired Admin/Techinfo Admin

- Posts: 26009
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Re: Rear Shocks?
Monroe Max Air would be a good set.. They are very easy to replace..
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01bonneSC
- Certified Bonneville Nut

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1997 'maro (3.8L M5)
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Re: Rear Shocks?
Might just wanna do the mount plates while your at it, then you wont have to worry about it down the road. I believe ive seen em for like $15 a piece.
- Archon
- Resident Gearhead

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Re: Rear Shocks?
There's just one large nut on the shock shaft inside the trunk on the top of the wheel well. There's a rubber cover on it. You may be able to loosen that nut without having to hold the shaft. The bottom is held with two bolt. Depending on where you live, those can cause a bit of a problem due to corrosion that builds around the bolts in the lower control arm. Use lots of penetrating oil.
If you decide to also replace the mounts, go a little extra and buy the Moog. The other brands can be noisy.
If you decide to also replace the mounts, go a little extra and buy the Moog. The other brands can be noisy.
*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.
Re: Rear Shocks?
Very easy job. I just did mine yesterday. Here was my process:
-Jacked up the back with the car jack.
-Jacked up the control arm a little bit with another jack.
-Take off wheel.
-Loosen the two bolts at the control arm holding the shock (to make sure they can be easily done without busting out some help).
-Remove the black plastic nut on the inside of the trunk holding on the carpet (on the side). Pull back carpet.
-Remove the rubber cover on the nut at the top of the shock (inside the trunk)
-Remove the nut (this is why you don't remove the bottom bolts, otherwise the shock twists when you do the top nut)
-Remove the air line to the shock.
-Remove the bottom bolts.
-Remove shock.
-Take new shock and pull the one end out some.
-Insert the top end of shock (don't forget that concave washer at the top that you remove from the old one).
-Start the bottom bolts into the shock.
-Jack up the control arm until the bolt on the top of the shock sticks through the fender well.
-Put the top bolt back on.
-Finish the bottom bolts.
-Reinstall air line.
-Put wheel back on.
-Not sure if necessary, but I then started the car and waited until I heard the ELC kick in. Then I lowered the car and made sure the top bolt was sufficiently tight on the shock.
Took about and hour and fifteen minutes including the time to get out the jacks, tools, etc.
-Jacked up the back with the car jack.
-Jacked up the control arm a little bit with another jack.
-Take off wheel.
-Loosen the two bolts at the control arm holding the shock (to make sure they can be easily done without busting out some help).
-Remove the black plastic nut on the inside of the trunk holding on the carpet (on the side). Pull back carpet.
-Remove the rubber cover on the nut at the top of the shock (inside the trunk)
-Remove the nut (this is why you don't remove the bottom bolts, otherwise the shock twists when you do the top nut)
-Remove the air line to the shock.
-Remove the bottom bolts.
-Remove shock.
-Take new shock and pull the one end out some.
-Insert the top end of shock (don't forget that concave washer at the top that you remove from the old one).
-Start the bottom bolts into the shock.
-Jack up the control arm until the bolt on the top of the shock sticks through the fender well.
-Put the top bolt back on.
-Finish the bottom bolts.
-Reinstall air line.
-Put wheel back on.
-Not sure if necessary, but I then started the car and waited until I heard the ELC kick in. Then I lowered the car and made sure the top bolt was sufficiently tight on the shock.
Took about and hour and fifteen minutes including the time to get out the jacks, tools, etc.
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wjcollier07
- Certified Bonneville Nut

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Re: Rear Shocks?
Check with your local Sears Auto Center. I just wrote up an install for air shocks on a roadmaster the other day, and I believe the shocks were about $90, and we only charged $35 to install. If you can't do it yourself, check with them and compare to the other places.
John
Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
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Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k
Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
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zuluhead
- SSEi Member

- Posts: 197
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- Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi
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- Contact:
Re: Rear Shocks?
I did mine last weekend. The Monroe shocks are definitely a better choice than the ones from Gabriel. The ones I took off were exactly like the Monroe ones, not sure if they were OEM or not.
so far as installation goes, I have just a small change to the above directions:
-Leave the shock compressed and put a block of 4x4 wood between the bottom of the shock and the control arm
-Jack up the control arm and guide the top bolt of the shock (with washer) up through the fender
-Thread the top nut on
-Lower the jack a bit and remove the piece of 4x4
-Pull down on the shock some and install the bottom bolts
-Tighten the top nut
so far as installation goes, I have just a small change to the above directions:
I found it easier to:-Take new shock and pull the one end out some.
-Insert the top end of shock (don't forget that concave washer at the top that you remove from the old one).
-Start the bottom bolts into the shock.
-Jack up the control arm until the bolt on the top of the shock sticks through the fender well.
-Leave the shock compressed and put a block of 4x4 wood between the bottom of the shock and the control arm
-Jack up the control arm and guide the top bolt of the shock (with washer) up through the fender
-Thread the top nut on
-Lower the jack a bit and remove the piece of 4x4
-Pull down on the shock some and install the bottom bolts
-Tighten the top nut
2000 Bonneville - SSEI
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zamjohn
- SLE Member

- Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:11 am
- Year and Trim: 2004 Bonneville SE
- Location: Steinbach, Manitoba
Re: Rear Shocks?
Just checked my 01 Bonneville SE and my rear shocks are both leaking. So I will replace them but OE shocks from dealer were about $400 a piece (insane) so called around and found Monroe Max-Air Ma822 as recommended replacement. These are $107. for the pair. Only thing upon looking at them, I figure air line diameter is not the same as OE although Monroe says proper lines and fittings come with the shocks. What do you all think? Thanks Zamjohn
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swampthing
- Certified Bonneville Nut

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Re: Rear Shocks?
mine fit the stock lines fine no problems. i bought mine for less then 70 for the pair from pep boys
2000 ssei gone but not forgotten
Current fleet:
2009 G8 v6, 2009 Avalanche LTZ, 2013 Volt
Current fleet:
2009 G8 v6, 2009 Avalanche LTZ, 2013 Volt
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imidazol97
- Posts like an L67

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- Year and Trim: 2003 Lesabre Limited, 2008 Cobalt, 2014 Malibu
Re: Rear Shocks?
That might makes sense that Monroes are similar to OEM. The Kettering plant for Delphi supplied shocks for GM and (part of) it was bought by Tenneco who owns Monroe and they are operating there.zuluhead wrote:I did mine last weekend. The Monroe shocks are definitely a better choice than the ones from Gabriel. The ones I took off were exactly like the Monroe ones, not sure if they were OEM or not.
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Jrs3800
- Retired Admin/Techinfo Admin

- Posts: 26009
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- Year and Trim: 03 SLE, 95 SE, 95 TS SE
- Location: Space Coast, or at least it used to be
Re: Rear Shocks?
$107 is expensive... I think I paid $70... They fit the car with no issues..zamjohn wrote:Just checked my 01 Bonneville SE and my rear shocks are both leaking. So I will replace them but OE shocks from dealer were about $400 a piece (insane) so called around and found Monroe Max-Air Ma822 as recommended replacement. These are $107. for the pair. Only thing upon looking at them, I figure air line diameter is not the same as OE although Monroe says proper lines and fittings come with the shocks. What do you all think? Thanks Zamjohn
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zamjohn
- SLE Member

- Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:11 am
- Year and Trim: 2004 Bonneville SE
- Location: Steinbach, Manitoba
Re: Rear Shocks?
Did end up buying Monro MAX-AIR shocks for my 01 Bonneville. Install was quick and painless with no additional parts needed. Direct fit and they perform very well.Zamjohn
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Jrs3800
- Retired Admin/Techinfo Admin

- Posts: 26009
- Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 2:08 pm
- Year and Trim: 03 SLE, 95 SE, 95 TS SE
- Location: Space Coast, or at least it used to be
Re: Rear Shocks?
Glad to hear it... I like them on my 03 as well 
Re: Rear Shocks?
Just wondering if you have the shock out and you lower the jack on the control arm all the way, will the spring dangerously shoot out - or is it held in there some other way where it will not come out?zuluhead wrote:I did mine last weekend. The Monroe shocks are definitely a better choice than the ones from Gabriel. The ones I took off were exactly like the Monroe ones, not sure if they were OEM or not.
so far as installation goes, I have just a small change to the above directions:I found it easier to:-Take new shock and pull the one end out some.
-Insert the top end of shock (don't forget that concave washer at the top that you remove from the old one).
-Start the bottom bolts into the shock.
-Jack up the control arm until the bolt on the top of the shock sticks through the fender well.
-Leave the shock compressed and put a block of 4x4 wood between the bottom of the shock and the control arm
-Jack up the control arm and guide the top bolt of the shock (with washer) up through the fender
-Thread the top nut on
-Lower the jack a bit and remove the piece of 4x4
-Pull down on the shock some and install the bottom bolts
-Tighten the top nut
Reason I ask is that my jack is touchy and sometimes when I twist the handle to lower it, it goes too fast and sometimes drops farther than I want it to....
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imidazol97
- Posts like an L67

- Posts: 1204
- Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:55 pm
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Re: Rear Shocks?
The original poster hasn't been on here since Aug 11.
I did my shocks last week. Monroe MA822
I will add to clean the bolts on the lower end with a brass brush. The corrosion on the threads builds up as you thread the 3-inch bolt down through the nut they used. Even with Blaster and then penetrating oil on them they bind up when unscrewing them.
Also don't let the lower arm hang of its own weight on the left side with the rod for the auto adjusting sensor for the air shocks. It can travel too far down for the arm's range.
The rears are easy especially if you have someone to hold the shock and feed it up to you inside the trunk.
Note that only the center bolt comes off inside the trunk; the two smaller bolts just hold on a reinforcement piece.
I did my shocks last week. Monroe MA822
I will add to clean the bolts on the lower end with a brass brush. The corrosion on the threads builds up as you thread the 3-inch bolt down through the nut they used. Even with Blaster and then penetrating oil on them they bind up when unscrewing them.
Also don't let the lower arm hang of its own weight on the left side with the rod for the auto adjusting sensor for the air shocks. It can travel too far down for the arm's range.
The rears are easy especially if you have someone to hold the shock and feed it up to you inside the trunk.
Note that only the center bolt comes off inside the trunk; the two smaller bolts just hold on a reinforcement piece.
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imidazol97
- Posts like an L67

- Posts: 1204
- Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:55 pm
- Year and Trim: 2003 Lesabre Limited, 2008 Cobalt, 2014 Malibu
Re: Rear Shocks?
Is this pricing for rear shocks only? The shocks, both together, are $65 at rockauto.com. There's a 5% discount code on some auto forums. The shipping is a fee but they arrived the next day for me by FedEx regular shipping (Indianapolis-Dayton).billberry12 wrote:$300 at Midas installed. $450 at Goodyear installled. I can't do it myself. Any better suggestions? Does not included mounts. These seem to be as good a price as I can find.
Suggestions?



