To perform this procedure you will need the following equipment: floorjack, jackstands, lug nut wrench or air ratchet, (2) 1/2 drive ratchets, 3/8 drive ratchet, 10mm socket, 15 mm socket, 15/16 sockect, 13/16 socket, 15/16 wrench, adjustable crescent wrench, #6 allen key, side cutters, coil spring compressor tool set, couple of thick shop towels, benchvise, hammer, and a 3/8 punch or 3/8 grade 8 shoulder bolt. (Also, maybe a breaker bar or pipe to extend ratchet leverage as needed).
1. Straighten front wheels and loosen wheel lugnuts. Secure jack under front frame and lift with floor jack. Once tire clears pavement, remove all lugnuts and tire completely. Set jackstand to lowest position (do not use any lever lift) and place in under front frame. Repeat on both sides, then remove floorjack so that front of car is resting on both jackstands set at lowest height (this is the most safe and solid position when using only jackstands to lift a car).
2. Locate and remove two 10mm blots securing the brake and ABS lines. Once loose, disconnect ABS connector and move it and the brake line out of the way, or temporarily ziptie them out of your way. These two bolts were thread-oxidized and fairly difficult to remove. These bolt threads will be candidates for anti-sieze compound on reassembly.
3. Next we need to ensure the steering knuckle remains alignned during bolt removal. To do this, use the floorjack and place a folded towel on top of the jack at its contact point. This is to protect the rotor. Slide jack/towel under the rotor. Lift the jack up just enough to meet the rotor solid with the towel as cushion. This is to help maintain the position of the steering knuckle/lower strut when we begin to loosen things. By doing this, the lower strut bolts will be removed very easily without a hitch.
4. Next we want to remove the 15/16 nuts that mount the lower strut to knuckle. The bolts are splined, so we want to keep them from spinning and reeming out the knuckle (if its not already), so use two 1/2 drive rachets. The lower strut mount bolt head for the h-body should be 13/16. Place a thick towel over the rotor to avoid gouging it with the rachets. Remember we are removing the nuts only and just trying to prevent the bolts from spinning excessively. In a healthy knuckle, the bolt head should not turn much. In a worn knuckle, or heavily oxidized thread/nut, the bolt head will spin with the nut. It is also a good idea to soak the nut and thread in penetrating lubricant, and wire brush the threads if needed-- before attempting to loosen the nuts. You many need to add a breaker bar to the mix if the oxidation has welded the nut to the threads or strut. If possible, avoid using the air ratchet during this entire procedure (other than on lugnuts) unless you really find it necessary.
As you can see these threads had anti-sieze compound applied. Always a good idea where corrosion may cause issues.
5. Use a hammer and a spare 3/8 shoulder bolt #8 (or a tap) to knock out the top strut to knuckle mounting bolt. With the jack under the rotor keeping things aligned, the bolts will easily rocket out when you get past the bolt splines, so be aware. Knock out the lower bolt as well.
6. Lower and remove the jack and towel from under the rotor and the steering knuckle will fall forwards. Slip towel under the strut (over the axle boot) to protect boot.
7. At this point, I like to completely free the lower strut from the steering knuckle by pulling the knuckle as far forward as possible (note that the brakeline is still attached and will be under tension). Its better to separate these now while the upper strut is still mounted, rather than wrestling to separate them when the strut is completely free. After freeing the lower strut from the knuckle, remove the (3) 15mm upper strut mount bolts. Note that the strut will be free once these bolts are removed, so be aware.
8. The entire strut assembly is now free to remove without obstructions. Carefully remove the strut assembly from car and place into a bench vise for dis-assembly.
9. You will need to purchase or rent a set of coil spring compressor tools. Position the spring compressors as shown. Seat the fingers fully around the coil and use the safety pins. Use a rachet to tighten the compressor tool bolts evenly, and as far as possible (for safety). It takes a long while and your arms will be tired, but it needs to be done. Make sure you have compressed the springs far enough-- the upper strut mount plate should become very loose. Again, for safety purposes make sure to turn the compressor tool bolts until they become extremely difficult to turn (ensuring that all potential energy of the spring is compressed).
10. For Monroe Struts use appropriate allen key ( usually #6) and 15/16 wrench to remove upper mounting nut. Some struts use a square head stem instead of the allen head, in that case an adjustable crescent wrench will be required. I used the spring compressor tool bolt as a stop for the allen (put small piece of thick cardboard to protect thread on spring compressor tool bolt.) Spin off the nut when loose.
If you are new to dis-assembling these components, wear safety goggles during this, as precaution. If you have not removed all the potential energy from the spring by not fully compressing it, this is where things will go flying, and injury can result.
11. With the nut out, remove the dished washer, strut mount, yellow bearing plate, spring mount, and isolator rubber. Lift off the compressed spring and remove lower dished plate.
12. Snip the ziptie on the lower part of the bellows. Remove it, the bumper stop, and lower rubber spring isolator.
Note where the corrosion points tend to be on the strut itself. I typically will coat these points with silicone grease when assembling new struts. Brushing on rubberized undercoat or silicone sealer may be a better idea, as alot of moisture tends to settle in these areas--not necessary, but helps if you want to minimize corrosion.
13. Below two pics are the components that make the strut assembly (except the top nut and zip tie for the bellows).
14. As preview to the Strut Assembly and Install procedure (and not to end this on step#13!!), here is a pic showing the difference between an OEM soft ride spring and the firm ride spring. Note the extra coil in the firm ride on the left. It is also much thicker and heavier than the soft ride spring. Expect a huge change in ride firmness, if you select to use them.
this is a great write-up and it took me forever to find as well
