Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)
I can't afford an IC for at least a year so in the meantime I'm thinking of cheap ways to lower temps.
Even with a FWI and an IAT extension to the filter my intake temps can get quite high at stops, so I'm trying to think of ways to get more ambient air to the filter. At first thought I'm thinking of getting some Intense tubing and running it from behind the right fog light to point right at the filter. Or maybe I can try running the filter right behind the fog light, but that might present too many radical bends in the tubing. Anyone else try improving a FWI?
I'm also thinking of a 160 t-stat, but what negative impact could this have? Will I want to lower the temps when the fans turn on? If so, I have an Intense PCM with my own custom tune so I could just apply what Intense did for a 180 stat to a 160 stat setup.
Just thinking out loud.
Last edited by Allmachtige on Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I know a guy that cut a hole in the bottom air dam and then installed some window screen mesh in it to keep too much debri out of it during the summer, then he made a cover for the winter time to plug it back up. Only problem is the rain, but shouldn't effect it much. You could also run it to the fog light. About your only options on the FWI. Mine is behind the left fog light and seems to be pretty good. Hans installed a barrier between the engine bay and the left fenderwell and put in some of that spray in expanding foam to seal off the engine bay heat and it worked pretty well. I'll see if I can find the photos of that. Edit: Nope, can't find them
Oh and by the way, I run a 160Tstat and don't see a difference at all.
Last edited by SuperSLE on Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nothing lowered my engine bay temps more than the hood vents. It's a bit complicated on the 2k hood, so if you don't have the bawls to try it, FORCE more air in there. My Ramair cooling worked great for 2 years.
willwren wrote:Nothing lowered my engine bay temps more than the hood vents. It's a bit complicated on the 2k hood, so if you don't have the bawls to try it, FORCE more air in there. My Ramair cooling worked great for 2 years.
Bawls to do it = money to do it eh?
As far as I remember your ramair cooling was tubing going directly over the charger.
Oh and by the way, I run a 160Tstat and don't see a difference at all.
Did you drill your 160? I'm wondering if that's overkill.
Last edited by Allmachtige on Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
I'm not too familiar with the 00+ frond end, is the Rad fairly exposed to the FWI filter area? I know on my '93 there was a HUGE rubberish piece that divided it from the area below the headlight.
Get rid of the heat trap known as the hood insulator.
My '93 was missing the front weatherstripping on the hood, and it was always running cool. Not the best idea, but hell it worked... valve covers got dirty from rain quick tho!
Last edited by BonneMe on Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
Jason Z - Exposed Autos
2001 BMW 330i- Titanium Silver - Sport Package - 3 Pedals - Koni Yellow/H&R Sport 2006 Volkswagen GTI - (gone) Tornado Red - DSG, Stage II~280hp/325tq 1993 Pontiac Bonneville - (gone) Purple Pearl H4U/SLE. Loud
willwren wrote:Nothing lowered my engine bay temps more than the hood vents. It's a bit complicated on the 2k hood, so if you don't have the bawls to try it, FORCE more air in there. My Ramair cooling worked great for 2 years.
Bawls to do it = money to do it eh?
I think he meant bawls as cutting into your hood. Im gonna do it eventually but i got other stuff i need to worry about before the vents.
Id say water/meth inj is the next cheapest actual product bedsides an IC. Still a lil pricey but you bump up the octane level with the meth too. This is for a GTP and have heard really good things about Snowperformance products. a lil pricey but they have other applications too that are lil cheaper. http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=39
00Beast wrote:Less off-topic than Lane's Heated Steering wheel, but yeah, back to the topic.
SilverBullet runs the snow, and has had hit/miss results at the track with it. I've played around with several systems over the years on the Zilla, the first one back in 2003. None really performed, and I don't like a cooling system that constantly has to be refreshed.
BonneMe wrote:I'm not too familiar with the 00+ frond end, is the Rad fairly exposed to the FWI filter area? I know on my '93 there was a HUGE rubberish piece that divided it from the area below the headlight.
Get rid of the heat trap known as the hood insulator.
My '93 was missing the front weatherstripping on the hood, and it was always running cool. Not the best idea, but hell it worked... valve covers got dirty from rain quick tho!
There is a rubber "mat" that sits on top of the radiator and condenser when you look down after opening the hood. This is probably the closest thing to what you had.
Ever try to "California" the hood? You just put washers between the hood hinges and the hood, raising the back of the hood up a small amount, which allows hot air out of the engine bay. You dont have to cut holes in the hood, and its totally reversible. How about a ceramic coating on your manifolds?
I have ceramic coated headers so I got that covered.
But you bring up a good point about the hood... I could remove the rubber seal just in front of the windshield that keeps rain water out. Simple to put it back on if I see clouds.
Also, how did you not see a difference with a 160? Did your temps still stay at 180? Did you lower your the temps when the fans turn on?
i<3bonbons wrote:Ever try to "California" the hood? You just put washers between the hood hinges and the hood, raising the back of the hood up a small amount, which allows hot air out of the engine bay. You dont have to cut holes in the hood, and its totally reversible. How about a ceramic coating on your manifolds?
As greyhare mentioned above, this is a BAD idea. Your cabin air intake is just aft of the hood lip seal. That seal is there to keep you from sucking deadly fumes from your engine bay into your cabin. It's one of the most important safety devices on the car.
Furthermore, water/meth injection will only reduce the boost charge temps, not engine temps.
Last edited by willwren on Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I just don't see a difference with the 160 over the 180. Fans come on accordingly with the stat temp so that isn't the problem. Its like greyhare says, just because it opens at 160 doesn't mean it is going to stay at 160. Short runs it is fine. cruising depends on the weather. Don't remove the front radiator cover. I can tell you that doesn't work at all. I took off the front rubber on the hood, the hood insulation and the rear rubber on the cowl, seems to have help by about 20-30* in 85*F ambient. I went from running about 210 cruising to 185-190 cruising.
There seems to be a conflict of info on the rear rubber seal, but I only remove it when at the track. However I am looking for something longterm and it starting to look like I'll need to stare at the engine pondering.
I keep going back to my scans and notice the coolant was down to 163F when I ran 13.5, but the following runs it was 183F and KR was all over the place.
