Ive had the problem for about a year, & have done the the same stuff most uf us have. (rotating, aligning, balancing, & changing tires) & nothing has worked.
Two days ago, I had to take the car to the electromechanic to check for codes. & since Ive had a reprogramed computer from Itense for a long time, decided to get it installed.
Now, with the old computer the vibration would hapen in the 50-60 mph now it went down about 10 mph.
So now it vibrates in the 40-50 mph.
What Im guessing is that since the computer changes the shift points & moves them down, then the problem should be inside the tranny. & if Im guessing right its on the 3rd gear that the vibration happens.
Let me hear opinions on my theory.
more info on the vibration problem
-
alexcoqui
- Posts like an L36

- Posts: 821
- Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 12:56 pm
- Year and Trim: 2001 Blue SLE - 2001 Black SSEI - 2005 Grey Aztek
- Location: Puerto Rico
more info on the vibration problem
2001 Blue SLE - 1995 Black SSE - 1988 Black GTA


-
golfyeti
- Posts like an LG3

- Posts: 347
- Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:29 am
- Year and Trim: 2000 SSEi
Every available option - Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Re: more info on the vibration problem
My 65 MPH shimmy problem dates back to "pre-Intense PCM" install. Also, try this: Drive to a speed well above the vibration zone and then move to neutral and coast. When I did this the car still shimmied when it coasted into and down through the shimmy zone.
On rare occasions I have found the shimmy occuring at right about 50 MPH.
Someone once said a shimmy in the steering wheel is usually stemming from the front end while a shimmy in your seat is usually stems from rear end. Everyone in the car will feel the shimmy - the whole car is shimmying.
I have major rear suspension issues that I haven't attended to yet (clunking, clacking, cracking, and occassional rubbing sounds with a similar frequency as the shimmy) so that's my guess for now. Once my budget allows I'm planning on replacing the rear end-link adjuster arms and lower control arm bushings, and for a third time the upper shock mounts.
Gawd I hope we figure this all out. I'm getting tired of driving with my teeth clenched all the time.
By the way Alex, I really like your hood scoop - I've never seen a nicer one on a Bonneville. Blends in nicely with the front grill of the car.
On rare occasions I have found the shimmy occuring at right about 50 MPH.
Someone once said a shimmy in the steering wheel is usually stemming from the front end while a shimmy in your seat is usually stems from rear end. Everyone in the car will feel the shimmy - the whole car is shimmying.
I have major rear suspension issues that I haven't attended to yet (clunking, clacking, cracking, and occassional rubbing sounds with a similar frequency as the shimmy) so that's my guess for now. Once my budget allows I'm planning on replacing the rear end-link adjuster arms and lower control arm bushings, and for a third time the upper shock mounts.
Gawd I hope we figure this all out. I'm getting tired of driving with my teeth clenched all the time.
By the way Alex, I really like your hood scoop - I've never seen a nicer one on a Bonneville. Blends in nicely with the front grill of the car.
Last edited by golfyeti on Wed May 20, 2009 4:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark
The Familyman's Trans-Am
Intense 3.4 MPS, Intense FWI, Intense PCM, copper NGKs TR55's, MSD wires, MSD coils, BWD ICM, MagnaFlow High Flow Cat, drilled 180 'stat, solid front mount, Monroe Max Air rear shocks, Moog rear mounts, Moog suspension bushings, cleared front corners, 190,000 miles

The Familyman's Trans-Am
Intense 3.4 MPS, Intense FWI, Intense PCM, copper NGKs TR55's, MSD wires, MSD coils, BWD ICM, MagnaFlow High Flow Cat, drilled 180 'stat, solid front mount, Monroe Max Air rear shocks, Moog rear mounts, Moog suspension bushings, cleared front corners, 190,000 miles

-
alexcoqui
- Posts like an L36

- Posts: 821
- Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 12:56 pm
- Year and Trim: 2001 Blue SLE - 2001 Black SSEI - 2005 Grey Aztek
- Location: Puerto Rico
Re: more info on the vibration problem
First, thanks for the compliments.
& back to the topic, I dont think we have the same problem. My vibration only occurs while Im accelerating & if I let go of the gas, most of the vibration goes away. If I trow it to neutral, it completley goes away. If Im deselerating, I dont feel nothing.
& back to the topic, I dont think we have the same problem. My vibration only occurs while Im accelerating & if I let go of the gas, most of the vibration goes away. If I trow it to neutral, it completley goes away. If Im deselerating, I dont feel nothing.
2001 Blue SLE - 1995 Black SSE - 1988 Black GTA


-
00Beast
- Retired Site Developer

- Posts: 20960
- Joined: Tue May 27, 2008 10:30 pm
- Year and Trim: '17 Silverado 1500
- Location: MN/IA
- Contact:
Re: more info on the vibration problem
Sounds like a tranny issue to me. Not sure what could be causing it. The only way to fix it would be to put a different tranny in, as it sounds like a planetary gear issue.
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
-
RookieSSei
- SSE Member

- Posts: 134
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:59 am
- Year and Trim: 2002 SSEI
ALL STOCK (FOR noW)
Re: more info on the vibration problem
Yeah like I said b4 99% of my shake went after my trans was redone the other .1 I can live with LOL



