Rear suspension bang

[JBMark33]

I just replaced both rear shocks for inspection and the driver rear side is still making a bang! everytime I do over a bump.

How can I point my finger at the shock mount vs. a bad shock? or could something else be the issue?

[Peej9089]

Hope you have better luck than I have. The following link describes my escapade.

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =18&t=6050

Since you live only about 50 miles from me we may have to put our heads together and see if we can find the problem.

[JBMark33]

Inside your link, that alignment link end... last time I had my car up on the jack, that actually popper off, so I just stuck it back on.

I forgot about that... haha

Could this be my problem?

[harofreak00]

Yes, definately.

[JBMark33]

Yes, definately.

Could you point me to the right part name/number please. I could not find it in RockAuto.

[Archon]

This is the information on it, and approximate cost from the dealer.

Axle/Hub Carrier Alignment Link
Rear Suspension
Adjust Link Part number 25733087 $110.53

[CorbinDallas]

Try jacking the car up from the lower control arm under the spring leaving the suspension compressed
Take a large pair of channel locks with one jaw on the top of the link end and the other on the bottom of the bolt and see if there is any play in the end when you compress it
Link ends and tie rod ends are ball and socket and are spring loaded so you normally can't feel play by hand, but will have some, with force
It should be very resistfull with less than a few MM amount of freeplay

[Archon]

The end links on our cars are basically a bolt with bushings. If that alignment link has popped off when you jacked the car up, it needs to be replaced. Shawn (dbtk2) had a similar problem with his mother's car, that was posted at the old site, with similar symptoms.

If you can, will you post a picture of it when it comes loose. From Shawn's picture, it appeared as if the ball and socket part was fine, but the rest of the assembly pulled loose from it. It doesn't appear to be the typical design that you'd expect from a tie-rod end.

I couldn't find it at RockAuto, either. You could try sending them a PM or email to see if they carry it. Or, check with Ed Morad for a used one.

[JBMark33]

Autozone nor advance have that part, I will contact ed and rockauto to see if they have that part.

[Archon]

I had asked Erik a while back if they had any for a test I wanted to do. At that time, they didn't. but when I told him of the failures on them, he said they would see about starting to save them. Hopefully, they have.

[JBMark33]

I have e-mailed Ed Morad and also PM'd Rockauto. Awaiting results.

[JBMark33]

"I do. These are looking like they are not side specific, do you know if they are or are not. I believe they are not. I have one and it does have some rust on it which is common due to the location but the bushing and the ball joint at the end is fine. You are looking at $38 shipped. You can paypal me at sales@moradpartscompany.com"

Is the part from GM parts direct side specific archon? I don't think so.

Also, do these need adjusted or do they just keep the control arm at one, set, specific distance?

[Archon]

It is not side specific. That part provides for the toe-in alignment. The end that attaches to the center of the car is attached with a bolt through washers that are off-center. Changing the position of of the bolt adjusts the alignment. You should be able to get it at least close by paying attention to its position during disassembly, and put it back in the same position.

[JBMark33]

I got a used part, with a good solid bushing from the local yard.

Now, I am trying to replace it, but it seems that where it bolts to the frame near the middle of the vehicle, when I am sliding out that bolt, It wants to hit the gas tank, and so there is not enough room to slide the part off.

Has anyone else taken these apart before? How can I work around this?

[JBMark33]

I figured it out. This did solve my rear suspension banging rattle noise. I was so happy.

At one point I had three jacks holding the back of the car up while the gale force winds made me nervous.

If anyone has any questions about how I got them swapped out, let me know.. too much to type.

[Archon]

Glad to hear that it took care of your problem. Haro had mentioned when stripping one of his parts cars that it looked as if the tank would be in the way of the bolt. Were you able to loosen things enough to wiggle the bolt around to slide the link off the bolt, or did you have to do something else?

[JBMark33]

The tie rod end was already unbolted because, well it fell apart lol. So, i loosened the bolt on the frame bracket and saw there was not enough clearance. SO.... I had to loosen the two bolts holding the frame bracket (in the middle) that bolts the bars to the frame. At that point, the other side was still tight, so I had to loosen the other bar's bolt on the bracket as well. So then, after breaking loose like 5, 18mm huge rusty bolts, I finally had it out. Putting the "new" one in only took like 10 mins.

[Archon]

Sounds like a lot of work. Good job on getting it done.

[harofreak00]

Glad you got it installed. I thought for sure the fuel tank would have to be dropped, but I didn't want to say that for sure until someone actually attempted it.

[JBMark33]

A small amount (<2") of pry bar action had to take place, but it's all good. Car is extremely quiet over a bumpy back road and it rolled 165K today!!!