96 Bonne SE outta gas and now won't start

[96se]

Hi All, I'm new to this board and it looks like the right place for me. I am a Pontiac guy with 3 right now. I have a '78 Trans Am, '71 LeMans Sport Covt. (my project car), in addition to the '96 Bonne that I bought from my neighbor's wife a few years back. The other day my sister ran it out of gas. I put a couple of gallons of gas into it, and now it won't start. The fuel pump isn't making any noise when I turn on the ignition, but it does crank and turns over when using starting fluid. I checked the fuse and relay under the passenger side dash and they look OK. Is there access to the pump from the trunk? I know some cars have a button back there, but on first blush I couldn't find one. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

[00Beast]

Yep, it's the fuel pump. I'm not sure, I believe on 92-99 you have to drop the tank.

[RJolly87]

And GM doesn't have that safety cutoff switch in the trunk like Fords do, so no need to worry there.

[96se]

I take it's pretty straightforward...is there a DIY for removing the tank?

[96se]

Do I need to drop the tank to get to the pump, or is there access from behind the rear seat or something?

[bonnevillain]

you need to drop the tank. My uncle has cut many a hole underneath the backseat to do this before, but i wouldn't recommend that

[Jrs3800]

You have to drop the tank to get at the pump.. Not an easy job, but not a killer either.. As long as the tank is low on fuel it should be easy to move around...

Also is this a salt state car... If not it'll make things a lot easier

[willwren]

Keep in mind you may need to disconnect the muffler and cat hangers and shove the exhaust to the side. Pre-lubing the tank strap nuts/bolts the day before with something that can penetrate can save you alot of headaches.

[96se]

Thanks guys for the heads up. I bought the car from the original owner in San Diego. It's in the desert now (Palm Springs area) with my mom, so I hope the R&R of the gas tank should be easier than the restoration I'm doing of a 71 Lemans from Michigan!

[willwren]

I'm personally acquainted with that climate. Rust will not be a problem at all, but a little pre-lube will still help on the tank strap bolts and nuts (forward edge of the tank).

[96se]

Is there anything else I should buy beside the pump and penetrating oil?

[willwren]

Make sure the pump comes with a new strainer (sock). Otherwise, the only other thing to buy is a new tank seal.

[93RedSled-SSE]

Since it is cheap insurance, one thing you might consider having with you is the exhaust pipe donut gasket that goes between the ex. manifold and pipe. Although, you may get by with just loosening the two nuts to provide some play and avoid screwing it up when you move the exhaust over.

[96se]

Where should I jack the car up from and place jack stands?

[willwren]

Ramps are far easier and better. Just back up onto them. That's all you need.

[wjcollier07]

If any part of replacing this fuel pump is not already clear, I'll take a moment to cover all bases.

Obvious, but make sure you get the tank mostly empty...if you only have a couple gallons in it, then you're probably alright...but it is rather straight forward.

Move car onto ramps, or, in this case since it doesn't run, lift the rear up with a floor jack at the rear suspension sub frame with a good piece of 2x8 as a buffer to prevent damage. You can then place the jack stands under the control arms at the coil seat, preferably in the middle, as to not put all the weight in one place.

Relieve any and all fuel pressure at the fuel rail by sticking a screwdriver into the schrader valve while holding a rag under it to catch any fuel.

Spray penetrating oil on the exhaust hangers that need to be removed, hopefully there won't be any issue, it being a southwest car. Drop the exhaust to the ground, and towards the passenger side of the car, this should give you all the clearance you need.

With a jack, buffered by that same piece of wood, or a piece of plywood, support the fuel tank as you remove the tank support straps, which are two bolts, as mentioned. Be sure to loosen the clamps for the fuel fill and overfill lines from the back of the tank first, and figure out if it'll be easier to remove them while its in place or while dropping.

Slowly lower down the jack until you can easily disconnect the fuel pump electrical and the fuel sending unit from the fuel lines. Keep a rag handy to catch the excess fuel that runs out. Check to make sure all is clear, and then slide 'er out.

Tidy up the top of the tank once its out to prevent any dust or dirt from blowing or falling into the tank once the sending unit is out. Rotate the lock ring with preferably non metallic tools (plastic mallet, etc) to prevent any accidental sparks from igniting fuel vapors present.

With the ring unlocked, lift the sending unit straight out of the tank, taking care not to damage the level sensor..which can be a small pain for a moment.

Replace the fuel pump and strainer, perfectly straightforward.

Installation is the exact reverse of dis-assembly.

While you're under there, be sure to replace your fuel filter, and keep it replaced every 20k. Another rule of thumb for fuel pump longevity, keep your tank always filled more than 1/4 tank. The gasoline is the only way it keeps from overheating.

[96se]

I have to push the car for now, so I still need to use a jack...

[96se]

Well I got the job done, and guess what?? It was a bad pump afterall. Thanks to all for your help!!

[00Beast]

No problem. That's what we're here for!

[96se]

Following up, the car is running well, unfortunately the gas gauge isn't working. It rises a little at start up, then drops to E. My mom told me after the pump was in that she hadn't had the gauge working for a while. I wonder if the float/sending unit might have been bad?? or is it something else??