PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

The factory cruise control in my 2003 SSEI died suddenly - I had the cruise set, hit the brakes and it wouldn't resume, and it hasn't worked since. The fuse is good.

There's an old post in this forum where someone had the same thing happen on an older model ('96) and solved the problem by replacing the cruise control servo. Sounds like a good place to start.

Can anyone tell me where the servo is located and/or give some other suggestions for solving the problem?

#1 is your module, but the diagnostic list is extensive. a tech II scanner would narrow it down without guessing.

Did you make sure you haven't hit the button to off? I did that once and it took me a bit to realize what had happened. Also, it only works at over 25 MPH. Not calling you stupid or anything, just trying to eliminate variables.

First make sure your SES (check engine soon) light isn't on. There are other components that can kill your cruise.

I just had to replace a $25 brake switch and got the CC working just fine now.
Start with the less expensive components first. The CC module cost big bucks. Do without it if thats fried.

I had a '94 Olds LSS (first of two LSS's I owned) that the cruise control died on. First, the button on the end of the turn signal lever quit working, then the on/off/resume switch quit a few months later. Shortly after that, I had to have the ECM replaced because of some unrelated issues and the cruise miraculously began working again.

Something no one mentioned.. There is a little black plastic bracket thing on the throttle cable that is used to physically hold the cable when cruise control engages. Mine broke (seemed to get brittle from the heat).

Thanks for the diagram and tips! At least I can now locate the cruise module. Mechanically, everything looks properly connected and unbroken. Also, the way the cruise suddenly failed (on a smooth, straight road at 60mph) leads me to believe the problem is electronic, like a bad switch.

The check engine light hasn’t come on. Might it have some cruise-associated error code anyway? If so, would it tell me if a particular switch was bad?

I’m sure I could tear into the wiring from the switch on the turn signal and use a multimeter to check it, but there might be an easier way. Is it possible to get to switch terminals in the module? Would it be pointless to try testing switches, since the cruise only works at 25+mph?

Important
Perform the following in order to avoid misdiagnosis.

Inspect for proper operation of brake lamps.
Inspect throttle linkage for mechanical binding which could cause the system to malfunction.
Inspect cruise control cable adjustment, should have minimum slack.
Inspect for stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the PCM. Refer to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls.
When testing vehicles equipped with steering wheel controls, the steering wheel must be rotated to each stop position while testing the cruise control switch signal circuits. This will assure the integrity of the (SIR) coil.

Conditions for Enabling Cruise Control

When vehicle speed is more than 40 km/h (25 mph).
When PARK, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, or 1st gear is not indicated.
When an over/undercharged battery condition does not exist.
With normal engine rpm.


Turn the ignition OFF.
Disconnect the cruise control module.
Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF.
Test the ignition positive voltage circuit of the cruise control module with a test lamp that is connected to a good ground.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 36

3
Test the ignition positive voltage circuit of the cruise control module with a test lamp that is connected to the ground circuit of the cruise control module.

Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 37

4
Turn the cruise control switch ON.
Test the on/off, the set/coast, and the resume/accelerate signal circuits with a test lamp that is connected to a good ground.
Does the test lamp illuminate on any of the circuits?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 5

5
Turn the cruise control switch ON.
Test the on/off signal circuit with a test lamp that is connected to a good ground.
Does the test lamp illuminate?

I think I found the problem.

While going through the pre-test checklist I noticed that the cable at the throttle seemed to have excessive slack. I traced it back to the cruise module, at which point it's a flat fabric type of cable. It looked OK at first, but looking inside the opening I could see that it was only attached by a thread.

That led to another problem though - I can't get the plastic top off of the module. The four screws that hold it on have been removed, but it's not coming off. It doesn't look like there are additional connectors that hold it on, and I've cracked the top trying to get it off!

I'll get it off somehow and find a way to splice the fabric cable back together.

I bet harofreak00 could sell you a whole new unit for cheap.

I got several CC modules here for $20 + shipping.

Thanks Beast & Harofreak - a great price on CC modules, but I was able to stitch mine back together, literally. I finally got the top off the module and sewed the broken fabric cable together. It took a little observation to figure out how the reel mechanism inside the module worked in order to adjust it for the proper length, but I got it working again! Thanks to everyone for your help!!!

harofreak00 wrote:I got several CC modules here for $20 + shipping.

Haro, Would you give me an address so that I can send you a money order for a CC Module?
I live in Topeka, KS if that would help guesstimate the shipping. My e-mail address is rdt46@sbcglobal.net Thanks, Piloti

Email sent