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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:59 pm
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Year and Trim: 95 Bonneville
Hey all; newbie, just scored a '95 Bonneville project, not running. No spark. Don't have the diagnostic manual I want nor a wiring diagram yet, so used easyautodiagnostics.com to try to rule out the ignition module. Battery not fully charged, charging now but in the meantime probed wire P, power in to module, with key on, 11.19 volts. Probed N, power out to cam/crank sensors, got 9.86V. Should be 10-12V, so probably ok, will re-check with fully charged battery. Probed K, ground, got like 11V. So preliminary check tells me module probably good.

There is a hotwire running from the fuseblock to terminal H (orange wire) on the 8-wire connector near the module and wiring that looks like it heads down to the crank sensor. This connector is secured to the fuel rail. The fuse the jumper is pegged to is the 3rd over from the left, top row, 10A fuse there. Will check that but it's probably switched 12V. PO told me it's power to the computer but I don't buy that. Obviously something is going on there with the hotwire, so I need to determine what that circuit is. But I'm starting to think about that crank positon sensor. What I would like to find is the Mitchell detailed diagnostic map but I don't know if libraries carry that any more. Also need a good wiring diagram. In the meantime any help is appreciated, thanks,

Mealness


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 8:53 pm 
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Year and Trim: 95 Bonneville
Based on results of testing per easyautodiagnostics.com (link below), looks like my crank position sensor. Light on LED never blinked on either test. Guess I gotta pull the harmonic balancer...will advise once I put it back together. My engine is missing the plastic cover over the sensor. Wonder why...

Mealnotyet

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_ignit ... dule_1.php


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:53 am 
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Year and Trim: 95 Bonneville
Hi Mealticket; this is Mealticket talking to Mealticket...guess everybody is otherwise occupied...anyway, hey, real interesting day; upon removal of harmonic balancer, saw that a bunch of chewed up serpentine belt had wrapped itself around the interrupter rings, which in itself would probably keep the engine from running, but the crank sensor is also very chewed up. What I assume are the two hall effect switches are damaged, as well as the common magnet in between. So my diagnosis was spot-on. I guess this is a good reason to not remove that little plastic shield that goes in there...this baby should be running tomorrow. Toodles,

Mealness


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 7:17 pm 
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Location: Space Coast, or at least it used to be
Year and Trim: 03 SLE, 95 SE, 95 TS SE
Hope this has worked out for you... and sorry I did not catch this..

The cover was used from 91 On iirc to protect the crank sensor from debris.. Its good to have one on there just incase..

Hope all goes well..


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 8:07 am 
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Year and Trim: 95 Bonneville
Thanks, Jrs3800. Fired right up after putting the crank sensor on. I am now in '95 not-OBD1-not-OBD2 hell...CEL on, even my crack tech with 30 years' experience cannot get the scanner to read the code(s). I've known this guy 30 years and he is the best there is...he is well aware of the hybrid OBD thing but here we sit. I gotta get this thing past smog so I can sell it and eat in January. I know that the rear knock sensor is not connected, and its been pointed out that that could throw a code, so I will connect that up this am and see if the CEL goes out. If not, I'm down to either ohming out wire by wire at the PCM or throwing an O2 sensor on it and praying...cause I've checked everything else I know. Mostly using easyautodiagnostics.com, I've checked voltage at ECT, IAT, EGR, and ohms at the IAC. Functional rested the EGR, all clear. Only thing I haven't checked there is the signal from PCM to EGR; EGR pintle position voltage to PCM works. At techs' behest even tried another PCM from a yard, same exact result. Watch; it'll be the wrong gas cap or something crazy like that,

Mealmonger


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 10:19 pm 
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Year and Trim: 95 Bonneville
Update; connecting the rear knock sensor did not turn off the CEL. In fact, it seemed to run rougher once the light came on, although the light seems to take longer to come on now once you clear it by disconnecting battery. I know for a fact that the knock sensors on the car are not correct for the '95; the engine has been swapped, and the connector is different. It's '95 only, as are a few other pieces. So tomorrow I should be able to get the correct sensors, plus an ECT, and we'll take it one step at a time,

Mealness


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