I posted that my left rear door was not communicating with the rest of the car. It was suggested that a wire was broken in the "accordian" wire cover that goes from the B pillar to the back door. I did not find a damaged wire.
Today, my front passenger door became non-communicative! I unlocked my front passenger door with the key, the unlock switch to open all of the doors would not work, so I reached into the back seat and unlocked that door and opened it and the alarm went off. Opening and closing the front passenger door does not make the lights come on. Even the driver's door controls won't make that window go down (that's still the case with the rear driver's side door too. Also, occasionally when I put the key in and turn it, absolutely nothing happens. I get out cuss at it, kick it a few times and then try again and it usually starts and run perfectly.
When it's acting up, turning the key won't even turn the radio on.
Please help! I don't have any confidence in this car right now. I have no idea when I'll be stranded in the middle of nowhere and even though I always have tools in the trunk, I would have no idea where to start!
Thanks,

You may have more than one problem here. The first (involving the doors) is very typical of a wiring harness splice under in the main body harness under the driver's seat. There is a write-up here on the forum. I'll try to find the link, if someone else doesn't beat me to it. The second problem sounds completely unrelated.

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Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Have a look in the Techinfo Section:

post258548.html

In the section for "Interior", look for "Passenger front and both rear door windows & locks don’t work".

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Okay, I dug a little deeper under the driver's seat and carpet and found the 4 wires and although they didn't look bad, I cut, cleaned and spliced them all back together again. Now, all doors are working except the left rear door. The door does not lock when you try to lock it from driver's or passenger's front seat. The window doesn't work using the driver's control or the control on the door itself, and when you open the rear left door, the light does not come on. The speaker does work! I'm guessing it's the control module for that door.
Does that seem like the best thing to replace at this point?
Thanks, as always, for all the help guys!!

Have you measured for proper power and ground at the left rear door module yet? Also, inspect the connectors and terminals very closely at and on the LR door module for any signs of corrosion/contamination. I replaced numerous terminals on the connectors of a friends door module because of corrosion starting.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Which wires should have voltage/ground?

I'll have a look at the schematics and post again later...

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Unless someone advises otherwise, I'm headed to the cash-n-carry yard to pull a left rear door module.
Any other ideas?

There are two connectors on that door module. One has 12 cavities and the other has 4. Each connector has a ground and battery positive wire, although the 4 cavity connector has heavy gauge wire since it's for the window motor supply.

On the 12 cavity connector, battery positive voltage must be present on terminal 'M' (wire colour is orange).
On the 4 cavity connector, battery positive voltage must be present on terminal 'A' (wire colour is orange).

On the 12 cavity connector, ground must be present on terminal 'H' (wire colour is black with a white stripe).
On the 4 cavity connector, ground must be present on terminal 'D' (wire colour is black).

In this particular case, the only orange wires are battery positive voltage and therefore easy to identify. There are a total of 3 wires on the LRDM that are black with a white stripe. Terminal 'H' is very important because this is the ground for the circuitry logic. Without it, the module will not function. You need to know that GM does not have a cavity labeled 'I' on this connector because it would be easy to confuse with '1'.

I STRONGLY recommend that if you are going to do this type of troubleshooting that you subscribe to something like AllDataDIY.com or a similar service. This will provide you with schematics, connector information, connector pictures so you can identify cavity locations and troubleshooting procedures.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

I purchased a door module for $5 at a u-pull salvage yard and now the door communicates with the rest of the car. Simple fix. Thanks for all the help!!

Good to hear it's fixed! I always love when a nagging problem finally gets resolved.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation