No ABS light. I'm ordering some hubs tonight. Might as well do brakes too. They aren't bad yet but they won't make it the rest of the year.

It doesn't seem to be any different based on the length of time driving. I was thinking bearings but the fact that it stops in turns and with acceleration threw me off.

The noise: at low speeds (5-10 mph) it's like a mix between a rattle, grind, and howl. At higher speeds it's more of a howl than rattle, but still slightly grinding. It sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side but I can't tell for sure.

Here's where it gets odd. It does NOT do it at ...

I had a thought last night, might have been tried already, but could you take the module from a Bonneville and plug it in to another Pontiac that is self-programmable, like a 2002 GP, program it with the Bonneville fobs, then return the module to the Bonneville?

Or are they all the same?

Has anyone ever tried plugging the module into a 2001-2005 to program it then put it back in a 2000?

One more question... What about the 2000 makes it impossible to program manually? Is it the keyless module itself or the cars computer?

The k/e module & remote combo for my 2000 ssei is the same as all of the ones below. Am I to assume that if i can find a combination of module & remote from any of these vehicles, I can plug the module in and use the remotes that were already programmed to it?

Buick Lesabre 2000 6 Cyl 3.8L, 8 Cyl 4 ...

Transgo installed (I finished at 12:30am so it counts as today). Sooo much better now. Anyone want to rebuild my nose drive? I am sans press and pulley puller and I don't trust just any random mechanic to get it right.

Torque is not on Windows but there is a way to run android apps through Chrome on your PC, but I'm not sure how well it will interface with your computer's bluetooth connection, if it has one. I use Torque Pro with this adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Bluetooth-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp ...

I believe its because there's more room for air to escape between the rotors when the coating is removed, I could be way off though.

I was waiting until I finished my headlights, then I needed a good sunny day.

http://i.imgur.com/JKCC6je.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Be5SUJX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sn011Fb.jpg

Still some small bumps and scrapes to fix but its 1000% better than it was last May...

So far I've done:
LIM gaskets ...

I'll get a fuel pressure gauge this week and check it out. I should add the only time I notice this is in 4th going straight. No issues going WOT, starting, idling, or anything else.

New wires & plugs, used coils and ICM, and new cat. Bad coils/ICM from the yard? Other ideas?

Top it off with the lock nut. Use a 2nd person or your extremely long arms to hold the bolt head on the bottom while you tighten the lock nut on the top. Tighten it enough that it starts to squeeze on the boat roller. Lower the jack and you are done.

So I did this, and after a few days I noticed ...

Installed a sway bar from a GXP and a new dimmer switch to stop the random flashing of my lights. Tomorrow onto the coil packs and finish sanding/buffing my headlamps.

Has anyone tried these?
http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Pr ... 67R61CDXNJ

Having just went through this I would strongly recommend you get a bunch of sandwich bags and a sharpie to keep all of the bolts and small parts together with each component you take apart (seat bolts, console bolts, etc).

Check your gas cap. Mine said that and sure enough, the rubber seal inside ...

I finally got around to this, it was the compressor AND the tensioner pulley for the supercharger. Going with the compressor bypass pulley for now, no need for a/c until at least May.

finished LIM gasket, valve cover gaskets, fuel lines, and gutted the airbox. next up: tires and figuring out which pulley is going out.