Afternoon gentlemen, moving my details from the intro page to here. so we have an 05 GXP in black with 145.000 kms, Northstar Performance head gasket repair done this summer by a local independent shop, sat for nearly 3 years as I tried to find someone willing to do the work. GM was of no help and refused to work on it. Was planning to tow the car to Manitoba to have Jake do the work but a young mechanic in town said he'd give it a try. so far its running like a top. Took it in to local GM dealer for oil change and to look into some seat personalization issues, came back with a number of codes. So to be clear, this is a "one horse town" of less than 1000 people so when I say" GM garage" we are talking about a small dealership. Not wishing to impune the abilities of the mechanics but I am aware of the issues that can be had dealing with electrical problems. This is where I hope to tap into the expertise of this forum in determining the nature of the individuel codes as well as the degree of sophistication required to make the repair. What type of scanner/code reader is required and is it merely a case of a "refresh" or are parts defective and require replacement. Determining who to let work on the car is as much of an issue as what needs to be done. With that said here is the list of codes: ECM/TCM P102-MASS AIR FLOW CIRCUIT LOW , ABS C1232 LEFT FRONT SPEED CIRCUIT SHORT/OPEN, C1233 RIGHT FRONT SPEED CIRCUIT SHORT/OPEN, C1248-EBCM TURNED ON RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP, AIR BAG CODE B1001 OPTION CONFIGURATION ERROR, AUTO CLIMATE CONTROL B1004 KAM RESET, MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL B1004 KAM RESET, INSTRUMENT PANEL B1004 LOSS OF KAM, KEYLESS ENTRY:B3109-TRANSMITTER 1 LOW BATTERY,B1327-DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW, U1305-CLASS 2 DATA LINK LOW OR HIGH, SEAT MODULE B2356 DRIVER FRONT VEHICLE SENSOR PERFORMANCE, B1327 DRIVER POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW, U1305 CLASS 2 DATA HIGH/LOW VOLTS, TPMS: C1232,C1237,C1248. There are no "check engine lights", the car runs well, the climate controls work, the seat responds to the individual fobs with programed positions from before but I cannot enter into the system to make changes. The manual seat controls all work. I will replace the fob batteries. The first attempt made by the GM dealer to read the codes resulted in a "fried reader", results obtained by 2nd unit; incompetence or coincidence? advice and opinion will both be appreciated.

Did these all start to occur at the same time? This screams of a wiring problem, which could be a few possibilities given the DTC's are scattered among so many systems. It's almost as though a ground splicepack wasn't reattached to the body during the engine re-install. This is of course dependent on whether the timeline coincides.

One other quick item to check is where the engine wiring harness attached to the fuse block. If you take the cover off the under hood electrical center, you'll see three hex-head bolts. These attach three different wiring harnesses to the bottom. The bolt closes to the firewall is for the main body harness, the center bolt is for the engine wiring harness and the one closest to the RF headlamp is for the forward lamp wiring harness. If these are not tight, you may experience a variety of problems.

Clearing all the codes and seeing what comes back will help to eliminate any old and irrelevant history codes that may have been related to past service. Where did you obtain that list? You 'may' require something like a Tech2 because many generic/aftermarket scanners won't communicate with things like ABS or airbag systems.

I completely understand your sentiment about who you choose to work on your vehicle. When mine was under warranty, I knew staff at my dealership very well and was able to pick who did the service. Now that it's out of warranty, most work I do myself. You can probably tell by some of the links in my signature that I'm extremely particular about how things get done to my car.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

The codes were part of the oil change work order from the local GM. They also changed out the engine air filter and in "tech comments"it states "can operate seat memory with scan tool, door switches not operating". This was the first work done since the independent shop did the head so many of these codes could be "historical" and may simply need to be cleared or some connections were missed during reassembly. There has been nothing in the performance of the car to indicate a problem but that does not rule out that there aren't issues that require attention. I expect I'll need to deal with GM based on the scanner required but I hope I can get some insight on what these codes relate to, which require immediate attention and just how difficult pinpointing the problem will be. The ABS, air bag and climate are obvious but what does TPMS stand for and are there any issues in operating the car with these codes unresolved. I've seen first hand how difficult it is to trace a faulty sending unit or a poorly secured 8 way connector with one loose wire. My plan is to take the car in, have them clear the codes and see what comes back, that can be done locally. Then depending on that outcome decide if what further repair needed can be done here or if a larger dealership is a better bet.

So basically, my first thoughts were related to something being missed during the head stud work. In order to remove the engine, you need to disconnect the engine wiring harness from the bottom of the under hood fuse block, disconnect one or more ground splicepacks (I'll have to pull up the service manual to see which ones), disconnect the engine harness from the main body harness (large connector on the left strut tower) along with various other miscellaneous connections. The other problem, which hopefully isn't the case, is damaged wiring during the reinstall (I'm assuming the tech would have seen or noticed anything during removal). It is concerning that you have as many open/short faults as you do, especially on the data bus. This almost makes me think there is some harness damage.

TPMS = Tire Pressure Monitoring System. This is different than in newer vehicles which use a pressure sensor in each tire. This system works by monitoring the rotation speed of each wheel. If one is consistently different than the other three, it knows that the tire is either under or over inflated and will set a message on your DIC. It doesn't respond as quickly as the newer technology because it depends on a period of relatively straight driving (since turning can cause some wheels to rotates faster than others). The tire monitoring system in the Bonneville therefore ties in with wheel speed sensors and is a function managed by the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module). This of course is also responsible for ABS and traction control, so when you have codes for those, I'm not surprised to hear about the tire monitor either.

I'll have a look over your previous list of problems as soon as I can to see what may be common to each and provide some further information. I still suspect this is a connector/splicepack (ground)/damaged wiring problem. If this was my car, I'd start with all the splicepacks and connectors since those are relatively easy to access, followed by a visual inspection of all the engine compartment wiring (for damage). This is of course once all the codes are cleared to see what comes back.

Your biggest concern with driving the car is related to potential lack of ABS or traction control. Regular braking should not be affected. There is also a chance of some degree of airbag malfunction in a collision due to the configuration error.

In case you have a look around, spliepacks take on a couple of forms. A small plastic box with a metal tab that bolts to the body or engine with a number of black or black wires with white stripes entering the bottom. Or, a small plastic box with several wires that enter the bottom (colours can vary depending on the circuit) which is often taped inside a wiring harness. The first style is most likely what you're looking for.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Outstanding, Thank you so much for this and yes it is a shame we are so far apart but this is exactly what I'm looking for. I checked out the scanner reference and I may enquire if the independent shop has one and yes there was in fact a low tire with the DIC alert coming on a few days back. I'll take a look for the fuse blocks first chance but this coming week will be a write off, temps dropping to -40. Once it warms up I'll get the codes cleared then see where to go from there. The ABS is working for certain so with that said I can drive into town for the service work. Now here's the one you are going to love; the mechanic mentioned he had found some mouse damage to the harness when he did the engine drop and had made the necessary repairs but if he cleared any codes generated by this is unclear. This damage would be consistent with the wide range of unrelated codes mixed in with legitimate ones such as the fob batteries and the low tire. This is fixable, its a shame the car sat for as long as it did but I'm invested in getting it back in running order and it is worth doing.

News of the damage by mice is certainly disappointing. Hopefully the technician did a good job repairing the damage. My personal observations over the years is that very few technicians enjoy work on wiring and related systems, don't perform these repairs often, generally don't have the most effective supplies to complete the repairs well and for all these reasons, don't follow best practices when undertaking these tasks. I'm really not trying to be negative here, just realistic. Be vigilant for signs of problems.

I feel your pain as far as the cold weather goes. It's been pretty bad here, although I know in and around Edmonton (an north) have suffered even worse! Looking forward to hearing what comes from your next service visit.

Can you elaborate a little more on an earlier post about your door switches not working? What about your window controls and locks? Try them at each door as well.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Well we managed to hit - 46 Tuesday morning but that was the worst of it, milder for next week so this was short lived.


I agree completely on the mouse damage, worst part this only happened just before the car went in for the head repair. Jake offers 2 different head gaskets, one similar to the original and one a more robust "performance" item. I opted for the better of the two since most of the cost of the rebuild was labour, so if something were to go wrong, the gasket itself would not be the issue but apparently others were of a similar mind and he was sold out, so we had to wait for restocking. it was during this time we discovered the nest atop the motor, cleared it away and thought nothing of it till the tear down revealed the damage to the harness. The good thing is at least I know this could be a potential source of error codes and the repair can be revisited to insure it was done correctly.


The "door switches" refers to the "Driver 1, Driver 2, Exit" module on the drivers door. This was my wife's car so both fobs had her "personalization" setting in memory so when I get in I need to reset everything to my needs. All the locks and other door components work, what I'm not able to do is to enter the DIC and reset the current memory to be able to enter my own settings. Its fine until I "lock unlock" and then all of her "personalization" undoes what I have put in manually. I have picked the fob that requires the least amount of "fideling" but it still means I need to adjust the seat every time I lock. I have noticed the "reset" is also not working for other features such as resetting the "oil life" percentage back to 100% after the oil change. The tech stated in his comments he could operate the memory with the scan tool but not the door module and was uncertain if the problem was "communication" or the module itself.


Another question is once the codes have been cleared will merely restarting the car have them reappear if there is an ongoing problem or does the vehicle need to be driven and the functions listed utilized for them to resurface, eg. ABS code does not appear till brakes applied. I want to keep the techs working on this on a short leash till I see the direction this is going to go. Had a 1989 SSE Bonneville that when we had issues with the DIC the entire dashboard was removed and a "factory rebuilt" was sent out from GM and the local boys had only to install it. It took 3 different dash's before all the "bugs" were worked out but eventually it worked seamlessly till the day the car was parked. My plan is have it go in for an afternoon visit and see what they come up with in a few hours as opposed to dropping it off and they keep it till its repaired. If the "tech" is on his game he should be able to isolate the problem fairly quickly, if he's totally baffled, I need to find another dealer to work on this. My hopes are they will "surprise" me with their expertise and this will be a fairly "straight forward" repair as opposed to "we replace things at your cost till we stumble onto the problem through attrition". I know this sounds a tad cynical but we had John Deere out to deal with a farm tractor that had alarms going off. It took 3 days, 4 different techs(all of whom are known to me and are first rate), laptops plugged into the dash and ongoing cell phone contact with Iowa to resolve the problem. It turned out to be a faulty sending unit, a relatively easy fix once identified but the time it took to isolate it was unbelievable. The good news is, it wasn't my tractor and it was under warranty but it's still an example of what electrical issues can be like to resolve.

It will be a couple of weeks before I take it in, it's pretty much time to switch to the 4x4 as it's clearly winter out here but I"ll repost as soon as I have some news.

Certainly there are some problems that can be very difficult to diagnose and repair. Hopefully that won't be the case here.

As for the DTC's, whether they return immediately or only after being driven really depends on the code itself. I would suggest that you may not know the extent of this until you've driven it for at least a little while.

Different information and settings are stored in different modules. If I understand correctly, both fobs will lock and unlock the doors. This will of course mean that each has been properly programmed to the vehicle. The original owner will have received a fob marked #1 and another marked #2. Sometimes, if a fob has been lost, an owner can end up with two #1 fobs, or two #2 fobs instead. What's important to remember is the fobs are electronically identical (except for the ID they transmit). The number on the back is a driver convenience only, and is also the only reason they have different GM part numbers. It is possible to inadvertently program "Fob-1" settings to driver #2 and "Fob-2" settings to driver #1 since the car has no way of knowing what number is in the plastics of the fob case.

What I suggest is that you leave the fob marked as #1 alone. This sounds like it has all of your wife's settings attached (as of course does the other one). Use the other fob and set it up as driver #2. There really isn't a lot of driver specific settings that are made by way of the DIC (generally things like entry and exit lighting, door lock preferences etc). To store your seat and mirror settings, first open and start the car with fob #2. Set everything the way you want. Once done, you need to press and hold the #2 button on the driver's door until you hear a double beep chime. If the Memory Seat Module (MSM) is functional (along with various other modules and wiring in the car), this will then assign all the changes to the Driver-2 memory table. This 'should' then allow you to lock and unlock the vehicle with each fob, recalling the different settings for each. Of course, set correctly, stereo presets and climate control settings are also specific to each fob. Similar to the seats, to store radio presets requires opening the car with the 'intended' fob, selecting the station then pressing and holding the #1-#6 button until you hear the double beep.

In regards to the oil life monitor, it takes holding the 'Reset' button a surprisingly long period of time to actually reset the value to 100%. This is to ensure that the action is intentional when someone presses reset.

The weather, as you say, is at least going to improve. We're still -25 here today but it's supposed to be above freezing by next week!

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Have tried the process you described with both fobs and no beeps with either, it was at this point I realised the tech needed to look into it. I also tried the procedure using the buttons on the drivers door panel as per the manual and again no beeps.

I will get the fob batteries swapped out next week and see if that changes anything. I will also give the "reset" an extended hold and see if it responds.

We will warm as well, it just gets to you a lot sooner. no chinook but I'll take any improvement at this point.

Interesting to know, thanks. I wasn't 100% sure of the procedure you followed. I know that with each of my three cars being a little different, and sometimes not driving them months at a time, I will forget some of the subtle differences. Hence why I just wanted to be sure we were both on the same page.

Without connecting my scan tool to your car and doing a little diagnostic work, here are some thoughts...

My first guess is that your Memory Seat Module works fine, which is where seat and mirror settings are stored. I say this because you can adjust your mirrors and seats, yet when you open the vehicle again with the fob, all positions revert back to what they were. The fob communicates with the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) located in the trunk. both the MSM and RCDLR communicate on the class 2 serial data bus and these actions would not occur if the data bus was shorted to either ground or +12VDC. Most modules in the Bonneville connect in a (for lack of a better term) ring-type configuration which adds a level of redundancy to the data bus. This is good in the event of damage to a wire that opens the circuit. It also tells me that the DDM (Driver Door Module) is functional since this is what controls and monitors the movement of the mirrors.

The window switches are not just window switches. These are integrated with and form part of the DDSM (Driver Door Switch Module). Based on what you've said, this module appears to have, at least some functionality. The memory switches (1, 2, Exit) and Lock/Unlock switch all connect to the DDSM. The DDSM then communicates over the data bus to manage the functions of these buttons. If either those switches, the DDSM or the wiring in between are faulty, you may not have the ability to hold '1', '2' or 'Exit' and have your settings stored. DDSM failures is not uncommon, but people that have problems usually report bigger issues that just an inability to store settings.

Two questions... Does your lock/unlock switch work, or have you just been using your fob? Also, does the radio work, including chimes when the key is on and the door is opened (or similiar situations that should cause an alert)?

I've seen forecasts as high as 6 degrees here for Tuesday! My feelings won't be hurt if that materializes...

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

OK, i am unsure if the manual door locks work, I have been using the 2 fobs exclusively but I will check once it warms. The radio works including the chime and all functions on the dash as well as the steering wheel. The DIC display indicates doors ajar, trunk ajar, low tire, etc as well as recognizes each of the fobs. The personalization prompt in the Mode menu however comes and goes. By this I mean the DIC will display "calibrate compass", Vehicle Data and Personalization one time then another only the first two and scrolling brings up only these two less personalization. Other times all three are there.


Since so much of this is interconnected I think I need to revisit what works and what does not. I'm almost certain I was able to get the seat to go back by pressing the "exit"button on the door module but then pressing either 1 or 2 on the panel or the fobs did not return the seat, I needed to do this manually, yet from a locked position the fobs activate the preset memory.

OK, spent some time with the car today and have an appointment with the independent shop tomorrow to clear the codes and explore the door module.

Put new batteries into both fobs and ran through the manual as well as "fob" features of the door. still the same

Door locks work with both manual as well as fob

Mirrors work with manual but do not "reset" with either fob even if severely out of adjustment

Chime works

Exit feature on door panel currently not working but was shortly after head work

DIC display under "personalization" does not display choices after"Driver ID On/OFF"

Oil reset worked as you indicated, 3 x's and then 100% so reset is functional

Windows operate normally but "lock out" feature not working.

Seats reset with fobs but door panel Driver 1 and Driver 2 non responsive

I'll also get a better idea of which wires had the mouse damage tomorrow

Spent a little more time with the DIC, in "personalization" the reset does not work to move back and forth within choices. The manual indicated 3 seconds hold time but it had stated that for the oil life as well and a longer hold time had made a difference there, not so in "personalization". Also missing from the "list" are "SEAT RECALL","RECALL POSITION", and "TILT MIRROR", these are not being displayed as choices within the list any longer. In the above post I made an error in assuming these 3 were listed after DRIVER ID but are in fact sandwiched between PERIMETER LIGHTS and DRIVER ID, my bad. They are, none the less, no longer part of the options list.

Tech worked on car today, did a "synchronization"and that resulted in the exit feature functioning when the door is opened, door panel button still unresponsive. Radio volume now changes with locking by different fobs. Still unsure why DIC missing reset options but tech will reach out to "buddy" who is GM mechanic for some advice. Could the DIC need a "reboot, a refresh of the data, a relearn to put those missing options back in the list?