So far I have identified at least 7 black boxes in these 00-05 cars that fail and cost approximately $500 each to purchase from a dealer.

I think there are more on my 2011 Definitely not going to keep it more than a couple years.....
Trying to think of reasons to support the economy of China over North America....

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

So I replaced the RIM that I bought from Bonnevilles Unlimited. Thanks for the bonus Cub pens Andrew.
Doesn't make a lick of difference!
Crap! What now? Possibly the RHSensor.....but Dealer said it was giving a signal and they could run the pump using the Tech2.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

I'll post some instructions for you later today or tomorrow for a couple of things you can test. You will need to access the connectors for the RIM so if you haven't already put the car back together, hold off.

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Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

It doesn't take 10 min to access.
I do here a faint click click at the pump if I push the trunk air switch.
I disconnected the level switch and cycled it but nothing.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

Yup, based on that, my guess is that they were not able to cycle the compressor on with the Tech2...

How did the sensor feel? I'm betting that isn't your problem either (not that testing "by feel" is definitive by any stretch).

My top two suspects right now are that either the compressor has failed, or there is a wiring problem somewhere between the rear fuse block and the compressor. If wiring or a connector is corroded there may not be enough current carrying capability to actually run the compressor. There is a 4 cavity Weather Pack connector that interfaces the compressor to the main body harness. It's located very close to the compressor under the right rear side of the body. I'd be having a look at this for signs of water penetration.

The fact that when you press the air inflator switch you hear a faint click at the compressor suggests there is 'some' degree of continuity in the wiring to the compressor. With a device that enjoys as much current as this you need an intact, high current capable circuit.

As an example...

When I was helping Andrew with his car, he was unable to roll down his RR window. We were able to measure +12VDC at the motor connector so felt it reasonable to assume the problem was the power window motor or that that regulator assembly was completely seized. Swapping these made zero difference. When I started tracing the wiring back, there was a break in the heavy gauge +12VDC feed passing through the boot in the door jamb. When I opened up the wire, several strands were broken, only 3 or 4 were intact. This is why we were able measure +12VDC at the connector but what remained had nowhere near the current carrying capability to actually operate the motor. I fixed the wiring for him and all was good. Exact same principle applies with a corroded connector. That inline Weather Pack connector is the only one between the rear fuse block and the compressor so it's a suspect for sure.

One other quick check would be to swap the ALC relay with another of the same type. Pitted/damaged relay contacts can have the same effect.

If all the wiring can be ruled out then I'm thinking you're looking at a new compressor.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

The faint click you refer to when you press the AIR button, are you sure this is coming from the compressor or is it possible you're hearing the relay engage in the rear fuse block?

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

I know the compressor works. He used the Tech 2 to turn it on. I saw the shocks pump up.
I stood by the GM mechanics the whole time they were trying to troubleshoot the problem.
It sure sounds like the clicking is coming from the compressor area but its possible it's a relay. I assume they checked all the relays.
There is no corrosion on this car. I never drive it on wet roads and it has low mileage.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

Soooooo.... Low mileage and not driving it when it's wet does not equate to a guarantee of no corrosion or other electrical problem. When you're troubleshooting things like this you need to diligently follow the steps anyway. As an example, it could be a terminal that has backed out of the connector housing, I've seen many times where wiring has been pinched because it wasn't routed properly, someone did a repair at some point and didn't secure it back in place correctly or numerous other causes. I just finished repairing the ALC on a 1994 Bonneville SSEi where the owner swore it worked until recently but now doesn't raise the car anymore. Well, the air line was pinched when a technician bolted the fuel tank back in after replacing the pump... 11 years ago. There is no way it worked until recently despite the fact he was the second owner (his sister was the first) and he is very knowledgeable in the automotive industry (he just doesn't do electrical). I'm just saying that to troubleshoot problems sometimes you need to go through the motions because what you find may surprise you.

Having said that, if you watched the technician cycle the compressor on/off with a Tech2 and the technician confirmed the sensor was indicating properly on the Tech2 data screen then you have very limited possibilities.

#1 - The problem is intermittent and it happened to work while you were at the dealer (although not all of the findings support this conclusion).
#2 - Your original RIM was defective and the replacement you got also happens to be defective in the very same manner.

If I had the car in front of me then I'd likely be able to pinpoint the problem fairly quickly. My Bonneville went to the body shop today and I won't have it back for 6-7 days. When I do get it home I'll snap a few pics of things you can try. If you're out this way I'd be happy to help you.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Thanks
It would be great to fix this annoying problem.
Willing to try the systematic approach.
I guarantee there is no corrosion but connectors is a possibility.
I like your theory on voltage vs amps. The wiring on these cars is thin and the terminals/fuses crappy.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

The only part of the system I've played with is pulling the solenoid to pump up the rear when drag racing. Possible that the relay is not making good contact?

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

There should be other relays in the rear fuse block that are the same. Try swapping the ALC relay with another one of the same number printed on the case and see what happens. This doesn't seem likely though (unless it's intermittent) because if it can be turned on with a Tech2 then the relay functions normally.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation

Swapped the relay and voila it works!
Stupid GM techs.........waste of $100 plus the $80 RIM

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

How could they not have checked the relay first??!!
That was my first question to them and they told me it was OK and cycled the pump with the Tech2..........confused.

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

Ya, stupid me for not trying the relay swap first.....

_________________

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

There are some good technicians out there, but at least an equal number of bad ones (at least in my opinion). If I don't see something with my own eyes, I have a very hard time accepting what others tell me (at least when what they say doesn't make a lot of sense). Too many bad experiences!

Glad this has been resolved!

On the positive side, you didn't spend $300 for a new RIM but when they put it in, find the real problem only forget to mention it was only a relay.

_________________


Bose Luxury Sound System w/Touch Screen Navigation, Addition of Factory XM, 2005 MY Antenna, OnStar Upgrade (3G),
RainSense Wipers, Backup Camera, '00 Style Door Panel Courtesy Lights, Heated Washer Solvent, 2X Remote Trunk Release,
Turn Signal Mirrors, Center Console Courtesy Lamp, Rear Outboard Heated Seats, PVD Chrome 18" Factory Rims, Upgraded
Carbon Fibre Appearance Interior Trim, Highly Modified Main Body Harness, Instrument Panel, Door, Door Panel & Headliner
Wiring Harnesses, Custom Fuse Box & Tire and Loading Information Decals, Additional Acoustic Insulation