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 Post subject: Broken rear wheel stud
PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 11:05 pm 
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Location: Alberta, Canada
Year and Trim: 96 Bonneville SSEi
I searched around and found info on replacing front wheel studs but nothing specific to doing the rears.

On my beater Bonny, someone had already replaced all 5 studs on the passenger side, but the driver side rear had 2 that were cross threaded. In the process of changing wheels today, I broke one of the studs and the other cross threaded one is so toast that you cannot thread a nut back on it.

I may as well mention I need to install new brake shoes, so i would like to do the repairs all at once. Is it more of a process to replace the rear studs?

This is a $600 beater car with lots of miles and I want to keep repair costs to a minimum, and Mickey Mouse repairs are ok too....like cutting a hole behind the glove box so I can use a screw driver to move the blend door actuator so I don't have to pull the dash to replace it lol.

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'96 Bonneville SSEi - White on Teal - ZZP Stage 1 Kit, 3.6" Modular pulley, ZZP ported TB w/spacer, L3 short ram intake w/K&N filter, ZZP Power Log, ZZP DP w/high flow cat & 97+ manifold, ZZP SC coupler, ZZP HV ignition coils w/10.5mm plug wires, 16" Gold crosslaces w/Yokohama Avid tires, Olds LSS T-handle, Sony HU.

2000 Buick LeSabre Custom - Daily - Sony double DIN headunit, ZZP plug wires, ZZP TB spacer, L3 short ram intake - Dark Bronzemist Metallic on taupe


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 11:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2008 8:53 am
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
Year and Trim: 1993 Buick Park Avenue
1994 Buick Regal Custom
I think the studs hammer out once you have the brakes tore down.

Of course, the process may anger the wheel hub, which may need to be replaced anyway if the studs don't want to come loose.

Replacement hub units would be a quick and easy route, keeping labor to a minimum however, and they come with studs anyway.

Just keep in mind what's at stake if something goes wrong in this area, even if it is 'just a beater'.

And then I just realized you are in Canadia, which means rust.... that will probably not be fun no matter which way you slice it.

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1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 1:25 am 
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Posts like an L67
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:11 pm
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Year and Trim: 2000 Bonniville SSEi L67
the backing plate will have to come off maybe. you will know for sure when you remove the drum

to protect the bearing, put wood between the hub and knuckle to support around the stud while you hit.

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past rides:
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:49 am 
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Year and Trim: 1993 SLE
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It's easier to replace the rear studs.
You don't have to remove the backing plate.
Once the brake shoes are off it's a simple matter of hammering out the old stud and pressing in the new.
At work we use 3 thick washers and a spare lug nut with the wider (non-tapered) side against the washers.
Pulls the stud into place in a jiffy.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 4:27 pm 
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Location: Dearborn, MI
Year and Trim: '93 SSEi
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The only thing you may have trouble with is finding a stud with the same size knurl. So you'll have to bring the broken piece in with you to a parts store. The problem I've been running into is that the aftermarket replacements seem to have two different stud hole sizes, and they are both different than OE, and the auto parts stores seem to have a mish-mash of replacement studs. The knurl count doesn't really matter as long as the diameter is right, you might need a caliper to check.

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I don't know how much boost it takes to blow the tires off. But I know how much I'm going to use!
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'97 Chevy Camaro - 3800, T5, T-tops, Getting ready for some major upgrades!
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:18 pm
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Location: Alberta, Canada
Year and Trim: 96 Bonneville SSEi
Thanks for all your great answers. Matt, that's interesting to know, as when I bought the car, all 5 studs were replaced on the passenger side and that wheel now uses different lug nuts.

Over the nexy few days when I have a chance, I'll have to tear it down and see what it looks like. I'm just asking questions before I dive in to know what to expect.

Also, southern Alberta isn't bad for rust. We don't salt here, so both my cars are pretty clean, compared to the Ontario junk boxes I used to own and work on.

Thanks again!

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'96 Bonneville SSEi - White on Teal - ZZP Stage 1 Kit, 3.6" Modular pulley, ZZP ported TB w/spacer, L3 short ram intake w/K&N filter, ZZP Power Log, ZZP DP w/high flow cat & 97+ manifold, ZZP SC coupler, ZZP HV ignition coils w/10.5mm plug wires, 16" Gold crosslaces w/Yokohama Avid tires, Olds LSS T-handle, Sony HU.

2000 Buick LeSabre Custom - Daily - Sony double DIN headunit, ZZP plug wires, ZZP TB spacer, L3 short ram intake - Dark Bronzemist Metallic on taupe


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:18 pm
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Location: Alberta, Canada
Year and Trim: 96 Bonneville SSEi
Just watched a video on replacing the rear hub. Super simple on these cars. Local wrecker has a used gun for $60 so I’m just going to slap that on and a new set of shoes and we’re back in business.

Eats into the race car fund for next week, but can’t have a race car without a daily beater lol

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'96 Bonneville SSEi - White on Teal - ZZP Stage 1 Kit, 3.6" Modular pulley, ZZP ported TB w/spacer, L3 short ram intake w/K&N filter, ZZP Power Log, ZZP DP w/high flow cat & 97+ manifold, ZZP SC coupler, ZZP HV ignition coils w/10.5mm plug wires, 16" Gold crosslaces w/Yokohama Avid tires, Olds LSS T-handle, Sony HU.

2000 Buick LeSabre Custom - Daily - Sony double DIN headunit, ZZP plug wires, ZZP TB spacer, L3 short ram intake - Dark Bronzemist Metallic on taupe


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